Want to really wake up a 951?
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I was recently told that to enhance the stock performance of my Turbo S, without negatively effecting the engine or changing the "normal" driving characteristics of the car, to go with a Stage 1 chip and a WebCam racing cam. Agree / Disagree? Any input re: WebCam?
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Disagree with the cam choice. A cam on a stock car will yield very little. Start with a decent chip and turning up the boost. Then hold on........
In my opinion (and testing), the best chip on the market is at www.vitesseracing.com
Do a search on chips, there's plenty info within these pages.
In my opinion (and testing), the best chip on the market is at www.vitesseracing.com
Do a search on chips, there's plenty info within these pages.
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Chips
K&N
LBE/Reliaboost
Thats what I have on my car, world of difference over just the Autothority chips by themselves. I never drove the car stock, but I hear chips alone are a world of difference too.
K&N
LBE/Reliaboost
Thats what I have on my car, world of difference over just the Autothority chips by themselves. I never drove the car stock, but I hear chips alone are a world of difference too.
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Also a test pipe will really help on power. Don't get the cams unless you plan on racing or upgrade major stuff like bigger turbo, exhaust, MAF, etc. You won't get much more power out of the stock system, if anything you will just move the power curve around but won't add any.
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Again, no need for the cam.
There are a lot of vendors on this board that burn their own chips, and can give you a lot more response than the APE Stage 1.
Here's a couple of vendors that burn 28pin chips:
www.gururacing.net
www.vitesseracing.com
There are a lot of vendors on this board that burn their own chips, and can give you a lot more response than the APE Stage 1.
Here's a couple of vendors that burn 28pin chips:
www.gururacing.net
www.vitesseracing.com
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I drove my car bone stock for several months, and then put in APE stage 2 chips. I was stunned at how much power it picked up that way -- with perfectly stock driveability. Then test pipe. Then boost controller and more fuel. Then MAF and fuel computer. Then bigger turbo. Now working on more displacements. The first step always seems safe, but it is often the first along a long addictive path. Beware.
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Forget the monkeys and stuff:
Chips: Costs ~$300 gives you 15psi and ~230-240whp or a custom 18psi chips allowing ~250-270whp
Bets Bag-for Buck
Another Upgrade: Accuboost/Reliaboost controller Cost $40~$60 allows bypassing of CV which inturn equals faster spool
These are the basics, but it's ALWAYS recommended for a boost gauge for more accurate readings.
Wastegate: Alows you to hold more boost to redline Costs $315 for a 35mm Tial with adapters.
Total Base Kit:
$300-Chips
$60 Accuboost
$315 Wastegate
Total: $1,500 (you can install the WG yourself)
These are all bases that any starter would/should do for performance.
Unless if you say that you got $2,000 for upgrades, the a set of custom chips mapped for you new turbo (Turbocharger ~$550-$650 for an upgrade of K26/6 to K27/6) and another $400 for the custom chips
Then the WG and Boost Controller come in..........
Chips: Costs ~$300 gives you 15psi and ~230-240whp or a custom 18psi chips allowing ~250-270whp
Bets Bag-for Buck
Another Upgrade: Accuboost/Reliaboost controller Cost $40~$60 allows bypassing of CV which inturn equals faster spool
These are the basics, but it's ALWAYS recommended for a boost gauge for more accurate readings.
Wastegate: Alows you to hold more boost to redline Costs $315 for a 35mm Tial with adapters.
Total Base Kit:
$300-Chips
$60 Accuboost
$315 Wastegate
Total: $1,500 (you can install the WG yourself)
These are all bases that any starter would/should do for performance.
Unless if you say that you got $2,000 for upgrades, the a set of custom chips mapped for you new turbo (Turbocharger ~$550-$650 for an upgrade of K26/6 to K27/6) and another $400 for the custom chips
Then the WG and Boost Controller come in..........