Help! I need a clutch fork ASAP
08-30-2004, 06:18 PM
#1
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Help! I need a clutch fork ASAP
My mechanic called me and said that my clutch fork had a lot of wear from a bad t/o bearing. Does anyone have one that I can buy from them asap? He also said hed like to get paid for his 11 hours into the job. I thought the clutch job only took like 13-15 hours? Hes just starting the rebuilding process right now...
08-30-2004, 08:54 PM
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um book on a 951 with a one piece crossover is 24-25 hours. A mechanic will charge by book, no matter how fast they do it.
Edit:
If the 87 has the 2 piece, then i think book is something like 18-19
Edit:
If the 87 has the 2 piece, then i think book is something like 18-19
Last edited by Karl2bdc; 08-30-2004 at 09:55 PM.
08-31-2004, 01:30 AM
#4
Burning Brakes
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08-31-2004, 02:03 AM
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I have an extra one sitting around thats in pretty good shape, but I am in Seattle this week. If I can get karl to head over to my house to grab the part and ship it to you, the KC Wrenching Societry would be happy to help you out. Drop me a PM if you need it.
Regards,
Regards,
08-31-2004, 02:17 AM
#7
If the needle bearing has seized, it doesn't take long forit to wear the fork itself to the point it needs replacing. Like I said, if you need one, drop me a pm...
Regards,
Regards,
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08-31-2004, 02:33 AM
#8
Burning Brakes
clutch change time--'86 951
Not to diss your mechanic or the book rate for a clutch job, but it can and should be done in 8 billable hours or so for a 2 piece crossover exhaust. Mine was, a couple of weeks ago, by a mechanic who knows what he's doing.
His procedure was to drop the exhaust including wastegate, unbolt & drop the entire clutch bell housing, drivetrain & transaxle, and rear suspension with wheels attached. He rolled that out of the way, for the first ~3 hours of labor. Removed the flywheel and sent out for resurfacing, then installed new clutch, pressure plate, etc. with all new bolts. Replaced fork with new (but I should have stuck with the old fork and new needle bearings, as the old fork was actually serviceable). Reinstalled drivetrain as a unit, then reinstalled exhaust system.
If I had the whole thing to do over, knowing what I know now, I'd do the exact same procedure myself. I'd also take the opportunity to pressure wash the transaxle, drain the gear oil, and replenish, while the drivetrain was off the car.
His procedure was to drop the exhaust including wastegate, unbolt & drop the entire clutch bell housing, drivetrain & transaxle, and rear suspension with wheels attached. He rolled that out of the way, for the first ~3 hours of labor. Removed the flywheel and sent out for resurfacing, then installed new clutch, pressure plate, etc. with all new bolts. Replaced fork with new (but I should have stuck with the old fork and new needle bearings, as the old fork was actually serviceable). Reinstalled drivetrain as a unit, then reinstalled exhaust system.
If I had the whole thing to do over, knowing what I know now, I'd do the exact same procedure myself. I'd also take the opportunity to pressure wash the transaxle, drain the gear oil, and replenish, while the drivetrain was off the car.
08-31-2004, 10:36 AM
#10
Three Wheelin'
The clutch fork is in the clutch bellhousing, it is what pries the pressure plate off of the clutch when you push the clutch pedal in. Signs of a bad one are just clear wear in the metal, mostly on the tips of the fork. Its hard to diagnose this problem without taking the car apart, its not like the wear is noticeable until it actually fails.
08-31-2004, 02:11 PM
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Well I had to bite the bullet and overnight a brand new one from pargon. I got rear ended a few days ago in my beater and now have no cars to drive at all. I guess this was more expensive but I really need this back on the road quick. Thanks anyway guys.
08-31-2004, 04:48 PM
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Well this one had wear and tear anyway. I would just be pissed if I had to pay all that labor over again. Might as well pay a little more now then a ton later.
08-31-2004, 05:13 PM
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You did the right thing. When we did an engine rebuild a couple of years ago, we debated whether to replace the fork when we replaced the clutch, and given the cost, decided to just replace the needle bearing and build up the worn part a little, but to not replace it. The fork broke about a month ago at the track, and we had to take everything apart again. Part of the reason the fork broke was probably the chatter from the race disc, but metal fatigue after 18 years was also a factor. We should have replaced it when we opened everything up originally, but you live and learn. Got it from Paragon as well, so they're seeing a lot of traffic in clutch forks. I also installed the Cup clutch, even though there was some wear left on the race disc.