Car won't start...dme/klr??
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Car won't start...dme/klr??
I just installed some wastegate shims and my dad put in some europroducts chips. Now the engine will turn over, but it won't fire. I can smell fuel out of the exhuast pipe. We then re-installed the stock chips that were having overboosting problems, and the car still won't fire. The battery was disconnected before the chips were installed.
Any help is appreciated,
Eric
Edited w/happy ending (see 2nd page)
Any help is appreciated,
Eric
Edited w/happy ending (see 2nd page)
Last edited by Dash01; 12-05-2004 at 07:04 PM.
#3
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Feb 2003
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I had the same problem. Make sure the chips are in the right direction. Check up on Danno's racing site. http://members.rennlist.com/951_racerx/
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Where could I find pictures of the chips installed correctly? My dad said he is pretty sure he did it right, but I don't know about that. There is a little white marking on the board, is that supposed to be on the same side as the notch in the chip?
Thanks,
Eric
Thanks,
Eric
#5
Drifting
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Your see on one end of both the chip and socket there is a notch. Just make sure that there are both on the same side. Also make sure that the DME chip ended up in the DME and not the KLR......ect
#7
Three Wheelin'
I'm sorry to hear that your car won't start, Eric. I had the same experience with my 1989 Turbo back in May after installing some hotter chips, and it's an awful feeling! After I gathered myself off the floor, I called Powerchip, from whom I bought the chips (no one laugh, it was before I discovered Rennlist...), and they looked it up and realized that the file was corrupted. Once the new chip was in, it cranked right up. I would recommend that you test the old chips to see if it will crank. If so, you know it is the chip and not a damaged DME or KLR. Good luck!
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#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks for the replys. I have tried both sets of chips now, and the end result is the same. Uhg, it sure is frustrating. So, I am now looking at the dme/klr boxes as Jason suggested for cracks in the electrical joints. The relays may have gone bad, but I'm not sure on how to check them.
#9
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I doubt it's the solder joints.
If the car was working fine before you started playing with it, just focus on what you did, don't start coming up with any random solutions, you'll drive yourself crazy.
If you ONLY played with the DME and KLR, then focus on that. Were you grounded when you were playing with the computer? Did you put the chips in in the right direction? Did you plug the DME into the harness well, do you feel the click when fastening the harness?
Does the tachometer bounce when you try to crank it?
If the car was working fine before you started playing with it, just focus on what you did, don't start coming up with any random solutions, you'll drive yourself crazy.
If you ONLY played with the DME and KLR, then focus on that. Were you grounded when you were playing with the computer? Did you put the chips in in the right direction? Did you plug the DME into the harness well, do you feel the click when fastening the harness?
Does the tachometer bounce when you try to crank it?
#10
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
The ground was disconnected from the battery the first couple times the chips were changed, then i think they were changed with the battery connected. The dme/klr were unplugged from the harness each time for removal. The RPM didn't move, but the oil gauge did. I know the sender is faulty, and I will replace that asap. I fastened the harness correctly, it was fully plugged in each time.
Thanks for the help,
Eric
Thanks for the help,
Eric
#11
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I know the ground was disconnected, but were YOU grounded?
If not, you might have shocked it with static electricity, it doesn't happen a lot, but it is possible.
If the tachometer doesn't bounce while you crank it, then it's usually a reference sensor problem. Does your boost gauge go to 1 when in the 2nd ACC position of the ignirion? If not, it's a KLR issue.
Unpluig the harness, make sure none of the contact are bent, both in the computer and harness, and plug it back in with the STOCK chips (make sure the NOTCHES MATCH, or you'll reverse the power and ground and risk frying your chips, or worse)
What sender are you talking about?
EDITED****************
If not, you might have shocked it with static electricity, it doesn't happen a lot, but it is possible.
If the tachometer doesn't bounce while you crank it, then it's usually a reference sensor problem. Does your boost gauge go to 1 when in the 2nd ACC position of the ignirion? If not, it's a KLR issue.
Unpluig the harness, make sure none of the contact are bent, both in the computer and harness, and plug it back in with the STOCK chips (make sure the NOTCHES MATCH, or you'll reverse the power and ground and risk frying your chips, or worse)
What sender are you talking about?
EDITED****************
#13
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Ok, I disassembled them both, put stock chips back in correctly, notches matching. Put everything back together, and it won't start. The tach doesn't move.
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Since the tach needle does not jump when key is turned, and based on prior comments, I assume the fault may lie with the KLR.
So, what diagnostic tests can I do to the KLR or DME with them off the car? I've studied both with magnifying glass, and find to obvious signs of physical damage, but of course the internal electronics are another matter.
So, what diagnostic tests can I do to the KLR or DME with them off the car? I've studied both with magnifying glass, and find to obvious signs of physical damage, but of course the internal electronics are another matter.