Dash01

I just installed some wastegate shims and my dad put in some europroducts chips. Now the engine will turn over, but it won't fire. I can smell fuel out of the exhuast pipe. We then re-installed the stock chips that were having overboosting problems, and the car still won't fire. The battery was disconnected before the chips were installed.

Any help is appreciated,
Eric

Edited w/happy ending (see 2nd page)

Cyrus951

You probably put the chips in backwards.
There is a notch on the chips that should align with the notch on the dme and klr.

'86 944 turbo

I had the same problem. Make sure the chips are in the right direction. Check up on Danno's racing site. http://members.rennlist.com/951_racerx/

Dash01

Where could I find pictures of the chips installed correctly? My dad said he is pretty sure he did it right, but I don't know about that. There is a little white marking on the board, is that supposed to be on the same side as the notch in the chip?

Thanks,
Eric

Jason_86_951

Your see on one end of both the chip and socket there is a notch. Just make sure that there are both on the same side. Also make sure that the DME chip ended up in the DME and not the KLR......ect

Dash01

Ok, my dad installed them fine. Just incase I took them out and made sure to do it all right. The car still wont start.

NeedPorscheSpeed

I'm sorry to hear that your car won't start, Eric. I had the same experience with my 1989 Turbo back in May after installing some hotter chips, and it's an awful feeling! After I gathered myself off the floor, I called Powerchip, from whom I bought the chips (no one laugh, it was before I discovered Rennlist...), and they looked it up and realized that the file was corrupted. Once the new chip was in, it cranked right up. I would recommend that you test the old chips to see if it will crank. If so, you know it is the chip and not a damaged DME or KLR. Good luck!

Dash01

Thanks for the replys. I have tried both sets of chips now, and the end result is the same. Uhg, it sure is frustrating. So, I am now looking at the dme/klr boxes as Jason suggested for cracks in the electrical joints. The relays may have gone bad, but I'm not sure on how to check them.

Cyrus951

I doubt it's the solder joints.
If the car was working fine before you started playing with it, just focus on what you did, don't start coming up with any random solutions, you'll drive yourself crazy.

If you ONLY played with the DME and KLR, then focus on that. Were you grounded when you were playing with the computer? Did you put the chips in in the right direction? Did you plug the DME into the harness well, do you feel the click when fastening the harness?

Does the tachometer bounce when you try to crank it?

Dash01

The ground was disconnected from the battery the first couple times the chips were changed, then i think they were changed with the battery connected. The dme/klr were unplugged from the harness each time for removal. The RPM didn't move, but the oil gauge did. I know the sender is faulty, and I will replace that asap. I fastened the harness correctly, it was fully plugged in each time.

Thanks for the help,
Eric

Cyrus951

I know the ground was disconnected, but were YOU grounded?
If not, you might have shocked it with static electricity, it doesn't happen a lot, but it is possible.

If the tachometer doesn't bounce while you crank it, then it's usually a reference sensor problem. Does your boost gauge go to 1 when in the 2nd ACC position of the ignirion? If not, it's a KLR issue.
Unpluig the harness, make sure none of the contact are bent, both in the computer and harness, and plug it back in with the STOCK chips (make sure the NOTCHES MATCH, or you'll reverse the power and ground and risk frying your chips, or worse)

What sender are you talking about?

EDITED****************

Dash01

Oil pressure sender...mmk..gonna go get the klr and look it over

Dash01

Ok, I disassembled them both, put stock chips back in correctly, notches matching. Put everything back together, and it won't start. The tach doesn't move.

Dash01

Since the tach needle does not jump when key is turned, and based on prior comments, I assume the fault may lie with the KLR.

So, what diagnostic tests can I do to the KLR or DME with them off the car? I've studied both with magnifying glass, and find to obvious signs of physical damage, but of course the internal electronics are another matter.

Cyrus951

Read my post again, I've edited it.
Does your boost gauge go to 1 when the key is in the 2nd position?