Lots of mods, stock clutch...anyone have problems?
#16
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From: Northern NJ
J Chen I learned my lesson on my old car. It was a 6 puck clutch. The peddle pressure wasn't as bad as the engagement. The clutch was annoying as hell to drive because it took so much damn work to drive the car. You needed to focus on the clutch all the time or you would get hops, and jerky moments. As for my friends stock MR2 it is by far one of the easiest clutches I've driven. Easy engagement. The peddle is light. I can get the car going without applying any throttle while I'm releasing the clutch.
#17
Race Director
The stage three is bad for street and drag for our cars. Maybe ok for the track I guess. Its a bit of a joke how the Lindsey sit promotes the later stage unsprung spec clutches for drag racing, for obvious reasons.
#18
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Originally Posted by NZ951
The stage three is bad for street and drag for our cars. Maybe ok for the track I guess. Its a bit of a joke how the Lindsey sit promotes the later stage unsprung spec clutches for drag racing, for obvious reasons.
"Stage IV kits are for for serious road racing and drag racing"
They also claim stage 3 is agressive but streetable......maybe you got mixed up between the two
Anyway, is the Spec clucthes that only 'good' thing out there? (forget centerforce, priced over $1,100)
#19
Hey NZ,
Whatever you do stay away from the stage III.
I'm trying to get Lindsey to resolved this problem
cause it was their recommendation that I bought
the stage III after telling them that I need a clutch
that could handle 400hp but with smooth engagement
mostly for street use. The paddle effort is only slightly
heavier than stock, the quality is real good but I just
can't get over why I was recommended the stage III
in the first place. Even if they were to replace the
clutch disc to the organic or kevlar for free, I can't
imagine that they would help pay the cost of labor to
reinstall the clutch.
Whatever you do stay away from the stage III.
I'm trying to get Lindsey to resolved this problem
cause it was their recommendation that I bought
the stage III after telling them that I need a clutch
that could handle 400hp but with smooth engagement
mostly for street use. The paddle effort is only slightly
heavier than stock, the quality is real good but I just
can't get over why I was recommended the stage III
in the first place. Even if they were to replace the
clutch disc to the organic or kevlar for free, I can't
imagine that they would help pay the cost of labor to
reinstall the clutch.
#20
hey listen - you guys that have a stock clutch and are not slipping it - you have either - no real engine power, chicken rear tires, old rear tires, or open diff - no rocket science here. Let's not steer the original poster in the wrong direction - his car is capable of some power.
#24
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From: Bel Air, MD
thanks for the info guys. Actually ran into a bit of good luck today. I was going to drive the car into my shop by putting it in 3rd with car off, start it and rev through 3rd to get a couple of miles down the road. (since it would'nt fully disengage w/ pedal depressed) No need for that. It shifted through the gears fine. After I got there it started acting up. Now the problem is leaning towards a busted slave cylinder. Since the car sat for a couple weeks, it temporarily sealed itself up. It seemed to be showing all signs of a clutch going bad before though. Hey, if my car wants to make my life easier and cheaper for me, so be it. Looks like i'll be buying new shoes for my n/a now. Although I think I'll keep the clutch idea in the back of my head.
#25
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mikec944..........those symptoms sound like damper spring failure, same symptoms in my car. I absolutely love my KEP PP, cup disc & lightened OEM FW. No chatter what so ever!
Grips like crazy, slightly heavier pedal.
Grips like crazy, slightly heavier pedal.