sm

How long did it take you guys to do the oil cooler seals on a 951? I will attempt to do it without taking the headers off. Also, if anyone has the updated part numbers for an 86 951 handy, that'd be great.

Thanks,
Simpson

cruise98

Simpson:

The updated green o-rings are 999.707.043.40. The seal around the housing is 944.107.147.03.
So...do you have the one or three piece oil pressure relief valve? Either one will require a seal ring N 043.815.3. If you have the one piece OPRV, you will need o-ring 999.707.145.40 or 944.107.935.11. If you destroy the connector pipe during removal (very possible) the part # is 951.107.152.03. Use alignment tool 9215 to get the housing on straight. You will most likely remove the oil sender unit, which requires a seal ring too. I do not have the # for that one.

Is this preventative maintenance or do you have a milkshake? It should take 3-4 hours. I did it along with lots of other stuff, so I do not remember how long it took. It can be done without removing the exhaust manifolds. I removed the ps pump, and had the rack out for a reseal as well. Lots of tight spaces, so be patient! Drain the oil and coolant. Be sure to drain the block as well. There is a plug near the bellhousing flange right above the casting for the oil galley.

MHT

good luck, the biggest PIA is getting the oil lines loose, the fittings in the housing always want to turn, and then you risk damaging the lines.

Laust Pedersen

You don't need to take the oil lines off. I tried, but could not and twisted the 90 deg. hard-line slightly in the process. I did not remove the oil sender either. There is just enough room to move the housing and get the joint with the 2 O-rings out (and back in). After using silicone spray on the O-rings I also had to use the clamping force of the 4 bolts to assemble the joint, making very sure that everything stayed aligned, including the flanges. After 50 miles of driving, I see no oil leak at all.
It may be a risky procedure, but it worked for me.

sm

Thanks Cruise! You're of great help again, as I went by your list when ordering the seals for my front-end reseal job. I saw a couple of drops of oil in my coolant tank, so this is 1/2 repair, 1/2 p.m.

So does the 951 have one or two O-rings that have to be replaced? If I'm not mistaken, it seems only the following have to be replaced:

- 1 O-ring in housing
- 1 integral gasket for housing
- 1 sealing ring for OPRV
- 1 O-ring for OPRV

Tools needed:

- OPRV alignment tool
- thin open end wrench if OPSU is to be removed

I can't believe it takes hours to replace so few parts!

Thanks guys.

<Edit> - Which number is the O-ring that needs to be replaced on a 951?

Picture courtesy of Clarks-Garage.com:

Laust Pedersen

Here are the P/N's for the 951 seals:
944 107 147 03 - oil-filter housing gasket
999 707 043 40 - O-ring to oil-passage tube (2) needed (green)
I don't have the P/N's for the OPRV seals, since I had a new one installed on a prior occasion.
In addition to those P/N's I got a cautionary word from Danno, namely: Remember the orientation of the oil-passage tube. Installing it in reverse may create a leak.

sm

Thanks Laust. Which one is the "oil-passage tube" in the picture?

cruise98

It is not in the picture, but I referred to it as the connector pipe. The connector pipe is symmetrical, so no orientation. Not sure what Danno is referring to. The two green o-rings actually install on the connector pipe. One end of the pipe goes in the block at #2 and the other goes into the housing. When you get it apart you will see what we are talking about. Lubricate all o-rings before installation with some vaseline or something similar.

On the turbo cars, there is nothing at #1 where the yellow arrow is pointing. That is a recess for the oil/water heat exchanger in the N/A cars. It has some shims and a rubber ring in that location for them.

brad-cam

For what it's worth, I found that the perfect time to replace the oil cooler seals is during a water pump replacement. With everything off the front of the motor, it is very easy to access the oil cooler area from the front and you can clearly see everything you are doing.

sm

Keith-Cruise,

I see what you're saying now. The job seems relatively straightforward, except that it's in a tight spot.

Brad-cam,

This will be a stand-alone job, either for myself or the mechanic. They want between $300-$400 and I live in an apt. complex. What to do, what to do?

Laust Pedersen

Cruise98, "The connector pipe is symmetrical, so no orientation. Not sure what Danno is referring to."

He was referring to the fact that one O-ring is closer to the edge of the tube than the other (don't recall which) and certainly in my case it was not symmetrical.

cruise98

Laust:

I looked at the connector pipe from an '88, and it was basically symmetrical. 1.92mm versus 1.95mm Maybe the earlier cars had a different part in it. This is hardly a fine precision piece. I learn something new about these cars all the time.

SM: Pay attention to the orientation as advised by Danno and Laust

sm

Thanks again guys. If I do this job myself, which would be ideal b/c money is tight, I'll heed the advice given. The problem must be fixed and since I live in an apt. complex, the job must be done quick! Seeing that the seals are in such a tight location, I'm not sure that's possible.

BTW, in the above pictures, where does the coolant flow? Just wondering how the oil and coolant mixes.

cruise98

Coolant goes in #2.
Oil goes in #3 & 4.
#1 is a blind hole.

cruise98

Oops that was wrong. Oil goes in all three.