DIY: Oil catch can/breather? (NZ951?) EDIT: group buy in formation.
#32
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although it seems to me that this would stop all air flow away from the can as well as to the can......
<<<not a turbo guy......I dont know much.
so that meens that while under boost you wouldnt have negative pressure in the can or crankcase...but its not like yall are boosting ALL the time...........
<<<not a turbo guy......I dont know much.
so that meens that while under boost you wouldnt have negative pressure in the can or crankcase...but its not like yall are boosting ALL the time...........
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#33
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Originally posted by John Sims
The tank is still to be fitted as, those of us with the steering wheel on the correct side have bits an pieces in the way of the prescribed mounting point.
The tank is still to be fitted as, those of us with the steering wheel on the correct side have bits an pieces in the way of the prescribed mounting point.
#34
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a check valve is a very cheap peice. all it does is let something (gas or liquid) go through one direction, but if it tries to go back, the suction will close the vlave, allowing nothing to move through it. dunno if this is what you need to know, but here it is!
~Eyal
~Eyal
#35
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Originally posted by Eyal 951
a check valve is a very cheap peice. all it does is let something (gas or liquid) go through one direction, but if it tries to go back, the suction will close the vlave, allowing nothing to move through it. dunno if this is what you need to know, but here it is!
~Eyal
a check valve is a very cheap peice. all it does is let something (gas or liquid) go through one direction, but if it tries to go back, the suction will close the vlave, allowing nothing to move through it. dunno if this is what you need to know, but here it is!
~Eyal
The way our cars are plumbed in at the j-pipe I don't think there any boost present, just vacuum ? so no need for a check valve. IMHO
#36
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Originally posted by David Floyd
The way our cars are plumbed in at the j-pipe I don't think there any boost present, just vacuum ? so no need for a check valve. IMHO
The way our cars are plumbed in at the j-pipe I don't think there any boost present, just vacuum ? so no need for a check valve. IMHO
~Eyal
#37
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This is my attempt a working catch can
I had bought a Lindsey can several months ago and did not like the hot oil smell that was emitted from the filter and finding it's way inside the car, so I bought a Moroso valve cover/oil separator and installed on the Lindsey can and plumbed back into the intake system. My hope is to stop most of the oil and only let the vapor thur, plus allowing a vacuum in the crankcase.
I also took the top off of the stock separator and packed it with brass scrubbers, also packed the Lindsey can also.
The $80 unit looks like it will do the job at a much less cost than what I have in mine.
I had bought a Lindsey can several months ago and did not like the hot oil smell that was emitted from the filter and finding it's way inside the car, so I bought a Moroso valve cover/oil separator and installed on the Lindsey can and plumbed back into the intake system. My hope is to stop most of the oil and only let the vapor thur, plus allowing a vacuum in the crankcase.
I also took the top off of the stock separator and packed it with brass scrubbers, also packed the Lindsey can also.
The $80 unit looks like it will do the job at a much less cost than what I have in mine.
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#38
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Thats where mine is mounted basically, off the mounts for the cruise control posts I dont have though. Though I drilled the AOS and have it venting to ATM through a K&N. Zero oil in there so far and zero oil smells.
#39
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I still do not fully under stand the idea(s) of catch cans. They are there to remove any oil that found it's way though the engine (IC pipes, intercooler etc?) but if we were to remove this oil, by using the catch can, could we put the oil back into the car?
#40
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They are basically to do a better job of removing oil from the crankcase air than the stock air-oil separator. Then it's sucked back into the turbo-inlet. The vacuum provided by the turbo-inlet basically sucks any pressure out of the crankcase.
" could we put the oil back into the car?"
I guess you could, but it's usually not very much. I've only accumulated maybe 1/2 quart per month at most when racing.
" could we put the oil back into the car?"
I guess you could, but it's usually not very much. I've only accumulated maybe 1/2 quart per month at most when racing.
#42
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Originally posted by hosrom_951
The kit that sells for $80, it is just a plug and play feature right? i mean bo drilling or trhat matter of any kind?
The kit that sells for $80, it is just a plug and play feature right? i mean bo drilling or trhat matter of any kind?
Still waiting to hear from them, and John D. about the group buy.
~Eyal
#43
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I am interested too.
but have a few random thoughts![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Does the drain just unplug so you need some sort of container to catch the oil? (plus space to get it under) I know on the lyndsey one there is a neat valve with a pipe.
When the BOV dumps you are introducing boost to the J boot area - but then the standard system copes with this without needing a 1 way valve, I wonder if this could eventually stress the wire 'filter medium' causing it to break up? would a cheap inline fuel filter between the unit and the intake prevent any metal bits hitting ther turbo without causing a restriction?
With the lyndsey one I guess the problem occurs once the filter starts to get dirty, the crankcase pressure wants to escape via least resistance which might turn out to be the dipstick tube. The up side of venting to air must be that you are not introducing hot air (gases) back into the intake.
Tony
but have a few random thoughts
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Does the drain just unplug so you need some sort of container to catch the oil? (plus space to get it under) I know on the lyndsey one there is a neat valve with a pipe.
When the BOV dumps you are introducing boost to the J boot area - but then the standard system copes with this without needing a 1 way valve, I wonder if this could eventually stress the wire 'filter medium' causing it to break up? would a cheap inline fuel filter between the unit and the intake prevent any metal bits hitting ther turbo without causing a restriction?
With the lyndsey one I guess the problem occurs once the filter starts to get dirty, the crankcase pressure wants to escape via least resistance which might turn out to be the dipstick tube. The up side of venting to air must be that you are not introducing hot air (gases) back into the intake.
Tony