Brakes
#1
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Time for some new pads. I have Mintex pads (the previous owner left new ones for me). But when balancing the tires today, i noticed that the front disks (rotors) are not so smooth, so skimming or resurfacing is required. The rear rotors (disks) are smooth, so no need? or should i resurface them anyway? Secondly, my specialist wants almost $200 to install and resurface the rotors. PADS ARE NOT INCLUDED, i was thinking of any local shop can skim and replace the pads, is that ok? sorry for being silly, but i do not want to take any risks by taking the car to a non-porsche specialist. All i know is that the timing/balance shaft belts and a few other things in the car should be taken car of specialists.
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Brakes on these cars are not too difficult, I did the fronts myself, I picked
up a set of like new rotors for my 89 for $75 plus about $20 for pad sensors & antoher $45 for pagid pads. Just don't bring it to a tire or
muffler shop.
up a set of like new rotors for my 89 for $75 plus about $20 for pad sensors & antoher $45 for pagid pads. Just don't bring it to a tire or
muffler shop.
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But is resurfac ing them a must everytime you replace the pad ? or only resurface those rotors when their surfaces are no longer smooth?
#5
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I only resurface rotors if they warp and I feel vibration in the pedal under braking. Since I do the work myself, buying new rotors is less hassle for me as I'd have to take the rotors somewhere to be resurfaced.
I cannot remember the last time I had a warped rotor - guess I've been lucky. I just put new rotors on my 951 recently because they had worn down due to use.
New rotors are about $80/each here in the States.
I cannot remember the last time I had a warped rotor - guess I've been lucky. I just put new rotors on my 951 recently because they had worn down due to use.
New rotors are about $80/each here in the States.
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Why resurface rotors at all?
The only side-effect I see of “wavy” surface is a soft pedal feel until the new pads have conformed fully to the surface of the disc (maybe after a few hundred miles).
The only side-effect I see of “wavy” surface is a soft pedal feel until the new pads have conformed fully to the surface of the disc (maybe after a few hundred miles).
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Hmmm, the rear rotors are smooth. The front is just a TAD wavy. Just a little, i know what bad rotors look like (my BMW has a REALLY bad wavy surface). Guess i would just replace all four pads then.
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hosrom_951
But is resurfac ing them a must everytime you replace the pad ? or only resurface those rotors when their surfaces are no longer smooth?
No not a must on resurfacing, unless they are warped or have nasty pad material on them that makes them feel like they are warped - just put new pads in - very easy - new pads will seat in 50 miles or less depending on hard you bed them.
Front and rear pad replacement is the same - shown is left front on my car
http://www.remotesystems.com/video/porsche_brakes.avi
Please right click on URL and "save target as"
BTW I have some Porterfield Kevlar race pads that might fit? They were from my 1987 951 - I no longer use the pads because I now have a big brake kit - they have at least 3/4 pad material left. I don't know if I would use them on the street as they sqeal like a pig - but for track use - they would be perfect
Hope this helps you - Good luck!
Steve
But is resurfac ing them a must everytime you replace the pad ? or only resurface those rotors when their surfaces are no longer smooth?
No not a must on resurfacing, unless they are warped or have nasty pad material on them that makes them feel like they are warped - just put new pads in - very easy - new pads will seat in 50 miles or less depending on hard you bed them.
Front and rear pad replacement is the same - shown is left front on my car
http://www.remotesystems.com/video/porsche_brakes.avi
Please right click on URL and "save target as"
BTW I have some Porterfield Kevlar race pads that might fit? They were from my 1987 951 - I no longer use the pads because I now have a big brake kit - they have at least 3/4 pad material left. I don't know if I would use them on the street as they sqeal like a pig - but for track use - they would be perfect
Hope this helps you - Good luck!
Steve
#9
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Steve, is it really that easy? Don't you have to push the caliper pistons out of the way for newer (thicker) pads???
Anyway, that video is awsome!![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
thanks a bunch!
Anyway, that video is awsome!
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
thanks a bunch!
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Steve,
I wanna take my car to some DE's in the next couple months. Do you think those pads would serve me well there? If so I might take those pads off your hands. How much do you want for them?
Regards,
John
I wanna take my car to some DE's in the next couple months. Do you think those pads would serve me well there? If so I might take those pads off your hands. How much do you want for them?
Regards,
John
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Rich Sandor Steve, is it really that easy? Don't you have to push the caliper pistons out of the way for newer (thicker) pads???
Anyway, that video is awsome!
thanks a bunch!
Rich Sandor, yes it is that easy, and yes you do have to push the pistons in, but that's easy too!
For me the hardest thing is jacking up the car and taking the wheel off, cause I'm an old fart -![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
Anyway, that video is awsome!
thanks a bunch!
Rich Sandor, yes it is that easy, and yes you do have to push the pistons in, but that's easy too!
For me the hardest thing is jacking up the car and taking the wheel off, cause I'm an old fart -
![Roll Eyes (Sarcastic)](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/rolleyes.gif)
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#12
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If you've done brakes on any other car, you can do it on the 951, just a little more work to do rotors... get new ones, i got a DEAL on ebay for a set of rotors from this guy Ian, he has a website, look him up... also, i got some brake parts from vertexauto.com .... if you need any help/have any questions, i wouldn't mind answering them, you can hit me on AOL IM...
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johne Steve,
I wanna take my car to some DE's in the next couple months. Do you think those pads would serve me well there? If so I might take those pads off your hands. How much do you want for them?
Regards,
John
John,
Yes, these pads would be perfect for you. Again they came off a 1987 951 - non "S". So make sure they fit your car before buying if the price is ok with you.
These are the cars they fit:
944 Turbo & S2 '86-'91 front and rear use the same
944 Turbo S '88-'89 will fit rear only
968 '92 front and rear use the same
But please be sure to double check!
One set is 99.9% brand new - just used once to bed in. The other set is more like 80% to 85% left.
New, they cost $109.00 per set. How about $120.00 for both sets which by the way will do one complete car. This would include shipping anywhere in the US.
What I use to do was run stock street pads in the rear and race pads in the front, but for REAL STOPPING POWER, run the pads front and rear!
I don't have Pay Pal. But I will take credit cards, check, or money order. If you pay by personal check, I will have to make sure it clears before I will ship.
If your interested, shoot me an email, "stevef@remotesystems.com" or "pm" me. We can make final arrangements if you decide you want it.
Thanks, Steve
I wanna take my car to some DE's in the next couple months. Do you think those pads would serve me well there? If so I might take those pads off your hands. How much do you want for them?
Regards,
John
John,
Yes, these pads would be perfect for you. Again they came off a 1987 951 - non "S". So make sure they fit your car before buying if the price is ok with you.
These are the cars they fit:
944 Turbo & S2 '86-'91 front and rear use the same
944 Turbo S '88-'89 will fit rear only
968 '92 front and rear use the same
But please be sure to double check!
One set is 99.9% brand new - just used once to bed in. The other set is more like 80% to 85% left.
New, they cost $109.00 per set. How about $120.00 for both sets which by the way will do one complete car. This would include shipping anywhere in the US.
What I use to do was run stock street pads in the rear and race pads in the front, but for REAL STOPPING POWER, run the pads front and rear!
I don't have Pay Pal. But I will take credit cards, check, or money order. If you pay by personal check, I will have to make sure it clears before I will ship.
If your interested, shoot me an email, "stevef@remotesystems.com" or "pm" me. We can make final arrangements if you decide you want it.
Thanks, Steve
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hosrom_951 wrote on 06-18-2004 11:59 PM:
Oh, my, goodness.....it is THAT simple to replace the pads? just remove that clip, slid off the old pads, slide in the new ones? wow, does that apply to all four pads? same procedure? what if you need to replace the pad sensor? simple right? you do not need to add any kind of anti-squeal? brake cleaner?
Regards,
Hussam Jamil
Oh, my, goodness.....it is THAT simple to replace the pads? just remove that clip, slid off the old pads, slide in the new ones? wow, does that apply to all four pads? same procedure? what if you need to replace the pad sensor? simple right? you do not need to add any kind of anti-squeal? brake cleaner?
Regards,
Hussam Jamil
3 Turbos wrote on 06-17-2004 07:29 PM:
if you can receive a 5mb file by email - I'll send you a video on how to change brake from beginning to end - video is 30 sec's long - if you can't - I'll try and post on my website for you.
Don't bother with resurfacing - as you will warp sooner because the material taken away is heatsink material.
Now if the rotors are warped - then I would buy new rotors rather then resurfacing.
Steve
if you can receive a 5mb file by email - I'll send you a video on how to change brake from beginning to end - video is 30 sec's long - if you can't - I'll try and post on my website for you.
Don't bother with resurfacing - as you will warp sooner because the material taken away is heatsink material.
Now if the rotors are warped - then I would buy new rotors rather then resurfacing.
Steve
The pads might pull out with a little more effort then shown in the video because the pistons may be tight up against it.
Also, if your rotors are a little worn, you might have a ridge on the outer edge. If that is the case, this will make the pad difficult to slide out without compressing the pad first.
You can push the pistons in by gently squeezing the pad against the caliper - one per side of caliper because there are 2 pistons on each side of the caliper. Once you get the pad out you would fully push 4 pistons (2 per side) flush to the caliper, because the new pads would be thicker.
NOTE: when compressing the pistons in, they don't simply get pushed in quickly - when you squeeze the piston in, they go in VERY SLOWLY - almost like compressing a shock absorber.
In the video my pistons were fully pushed in.
Make sure that "after" you change your pads, and bleed your brakes, YOU PUMP YOUR BRAKE PEDAL TO MAKE SURE IT IS FIRM BEFORE YOU GO OUT FOR A DRIVE - IT MIGHT TAKE 5 TO 10 PUMPS. OTHERWISE YOU WILL HAVE NO BRAKES - AND YOU WILL BE PUMPING LIKE MADE UNTIL THEY GET FIRM AGAIN - BEEN THERE DONE THAT!!!
Race pads generally do not have a "cut outs" for pad sensors - but these do. I don't use the pad sensors myself because I change my pads way before they get worn out. When they get 50%- 60% worn, I toss them.
As far as anti squeal paste or shims, I don't use those either - paste is a mess and shims make the pads thicker and a little more difficult to slide in.
For pads that you use on the street, you can use either, but for race pads - don't bother. I'm assuming you would change back to street pads when you are done doing your DE event.
If these pads are going to be used for street and DE, they do "squeal" very loud under light braking - under heavy braking they do not "squeal" I don't recommend you do that. Not because they don't work when they are cold, but because they are so damm noisy!
Brake ckeaner is always handy to have around if you get your rotors greasy. My pads that I have are cleaned and ready to install - or any "other" new pads you buy should also be clean and ready to install.
Yes, the procedure to change pads is the same at "ALL" four corners.
If you are going to change pads yourself, just do one corner like the left front first. It would be nice to have a friend who has done it before or mechaniclly inclined to help you and give you support. It really is easy to change brakes. But like anything you do for the "first time", it can be confusing. BTW ALWAYS USE A JACK STAND UNDERNEATH THE CAR FOR SUPPORT BESIDES THE JACK YOU USE TO JACK UP THE CAR!
Hope this helps!
Good Luck!, Steve