mwc951

HELP................

The 4 bolts holding the bell housing to the block came out no problem. While wrestling with the BH I snapped the aluminum sensor holder. OK....now I very pissed.

Now I can not jiggle the bell to clear the PP and remove it from the engine compartment. I've been at it for 3 hours. HELP PLEASE!!!

Pauerman

You've got to pull the pivot pin for the clutch fork before the bell housing can be removed.

Get a 13mm bolt (8 x 1.25 thread) and screw it into the bottom of the pivot pin. Use bolt as a anchor to pull the pin out of the bell housing.

Complete housing should come away freely from engine

HTH

Vic

Jeremy Himsel

..

I laugh not at what you're doing, but because many of us have been there. Wait until you see how easy it is now....... You're going to be really pissed.

Vic's got you set-up. The bolt that holds the clutch slave in works perfectly. I put pair of vice grips on it and lightly tap the pin out.

Tom Carson

I just was reading this:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...0&pagenumber=1

you are not alone

Dan87951

Getting that stupid little pin out depending how long its been in there was still a pain for me to remove. Ahh I still have nightmares about it..

mwc951

GUYS................

I'm no moron! I've been following the multiple "web instructions" & shop manual. I pulled the pivot pin, hammered it out, no problem. I tried to jack up the front of the engine a bit. Do I need to jack the rear of the engine??

AlexE

If you removed the clutch fork pivot shaft and the 4 bolts ..... the only thing holding it up is the sensor bracket you broke. Did you completely remove it.....

You should be able to pry the bellhousing free....

mwc951

Alex......
There might be a corner of the sensor bracket up there, attached with an allen bolt??

The BH is flopping around up there. Seem as if the top right corner of it is hanging up. Do I need to rotate it or jack the engine up to get it out??

Now I must re-adjust the sensor depth? I was planning on just JB Welding that ****er back together. I snapped at the threads where the mounting bolt went through.

PorscheDoc

Removed the diagnostic plug (more towards the driver side of the bellhousing) and the mounting bracket for the reference and speed sensor. I just got everything back together on mine tonight....pinched the end of a hard vacuum line in the bellhousing, but screw it if you think i am taking that bastard off again.

turbite

I'm not sure thats a good idea, given what a pita these things can be when they start acting up, and they're pretty hard to get to.

Danno

The trick to getting the bellhousing off while the engine on the car is to clear all the heat-shield material. It prevent you from pulling the bellhousing straight back and down. You can even slide it down off the back in a curve.

The trick is to gently wiggle and rotate the bellhousing about 45-60 degrees clockwise (looking forward from rear ). Then you'll be able to slide the bellhousing off the back of the engine. Push the bottom of the bellhousing fowards to allow it to kinda swivel off the back of the clutch.

special tool

And if you have a wiggle, you have either a ground wire attachment, or a ground wire clamp - which you probably can't see. Feel for it.

mwc951

F***ing ground wire clamp.which I couldn't see. Thanks special tool............

NOW 6 of the 8 PP bolts stripped. I now see why a Porsche tech wanted $75 an hour to do this job. Makes the turbo, wastegate & MBC seem like childs play!

Matt H

The cheap *** sensor holder can be had from Oklahoma Foreign for about 10 dollars IIRC. Might have been 5 or 15, dont remember.
www.oklahomaforeign.com
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Danno

This is why the next time I do the clutch, I'm pulling the engine rather than working my way up from the rear...