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Oilpan Removal

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Old 05-31-2004 | 06:31 PM
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Default Oilpan Removal

Ok, so what's the "Rubic's Cube" sequence of moves needed to maneuver the oilpan off the oil pickup tube ???????
Old 05-31-2004 | 06:33 PM
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The 86 oilpan came right off with some wiggling.
The later oilpan (89+ I think) was a bit harder and I had to remove the pickup tube with the oilpan.

Maybe it was just luck..
Old 05-31-2004 | 09:16 PM
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Did you remove the oil level sender?
Old 05-31-2004 | 09:36 PM
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David, I'll take few pictures for you tomorrow. I have couple of pans out of the car.
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Old 05-31-2004 | 09:37 PM
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David, you're probably hung on the side of the baffle. ITTR..after you drop it just a bit, move it or rotate it to the passenger side then forward just a little, it should come out.
Old 05-31-2004 | 09:42 PM
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Adrial got my hang up, def. the sender on mine.
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Old 05-31-2004 | 10:18 PM
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Thanks for all the advise, I will try again tomorrow evening.
Old 06-02-2004 | 11:15 PM
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Originally posted by adrial
Did you remove the oil level sender?
Thanks Adrial, removed the sender and the pan fell off in my hand.

I am in need of a late style baffle as I snapped a tab off mine while cleaning.

As a side note, the debate as to where the balance shaft delete mod will vibrate all the bolts loose and crack the oil pick up tube, my results so far while I tear this motor down to install new rings, there have been no loose or broken parts.

12k street miles no hard running, will things stay tight with more miles and track time ??? we will find out.
Old 06-03-2004 | 01:22 AM
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David, I must have missed something - why are you tearing into that new engine of yours? Didnt SFR or AMW just build that 2.8 for you last fall?
Old 06-03-2004 | 01:42 AM
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Originally posted by michael2e
David, I must have missed something - why are you tearing into that new engine of yours? Didnt SFR or AMW just build that 2.8 for you last fall?
11% ring blow-by all cylinders since brand new, (which blows a ton of oil out the oil/air separator) time to correct the problem. Tim is supplying the parts and I chose to do the work myself this time.
Old 06-03-2004 | 02:53 PM
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Wow! After reading about Dan87951's travails and now yours sure makes you wonder.... Let's see now, if you get reimbursed for your time to do the labor yourself at an average knowledgable Porsche shop rate, say $80/hr, for 20 hours plus supplies that should knock back the cost of that engine some $2000? BTW, what was causing the blowby?
Old 06-03-2004 | 04:06 PM
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Labor reimbursement........... would be nice, but I have made no mention of it. I just want the motor to run as a new motor should, nothing more nothing less.

We (Tim and I) think it is as simple as assembly lube was used on the rings upon installing, why ???? I don't know but it was, so the cylinders glazed over and the rings never seated. I hope, I hope !!!!!!!!

I have the bottom end of the car unassembled and will pull the head tonight then will start measuring everything and looking for any sign of problems.
Old 06-03-2004 | 05:46 PM
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David, did you pull it or are you doing this in car?
Old 06-03-2004 | 06:53 PM
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Originally posted by Magown
David, did you pull it or are you doing this in car?
In car
Old 06-04-2004 | 12:53 AM
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That's interesting. So were you having the blowby issue from the beginning? Burning oil and presumably smoking for 12000 miles? Your 2.8 was sleeved right? Does that require different rings ( for different wall material) or longer break-in?

I was advised to use prelube on the rings and cylinder walls by a reputable local P mechanic which I did. I think Haynes might recommend this also. I would think this stuff wears away pretty fast. I did have the blue smoke for about 500 miles which I attributed to seating . It since has cleared now with 1000 miles and going strong so far. I thought about doing a leakdown just for piece of mind since I did the rebuild solo. BTW Aare you going to use one of those MLS HG's? Now I just have to figure out how to tune that SMT6 - any tips? Thanks


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