Oilpan Removal
#16
Mike,
Yes sleeved and requires rings to go with the sleeve material.
A light coat of oil is used on rings by some and some do completely dry but synthetic assembly lube was used. At this point it just a guess that the assembly lube was the problem.
The head came off tonight and I will take pistons out tomorrow and start checking things out.
I have been using a MLS gasket and have a new MLS gasket to go back on. The MLS gasket is my only option for a proper fit with the 106mm bore.
I can't help with the SMT6 yet as it will be installed as the car goes back together along with the Vitesse stage 4 turbo and MAF.
Give John a call, he is very helpful and can tell you anything you need to know about the SMT6.
I am open to any suggestion as what is causing my problems.
Problem 1) 11% leakage past rings on all 4 cylinders,(since new) so not 1 bad 3 good
Problem 2) oil smoke out the exhaust, not bad but it does smoke.
Problem 3 and the major problem ) Oil is blown out the oil/air separator in huge amounts if on boost, as in, it will fill up a Lindsey catch can (I had to install to keep oil out of the intake) and blow out the filter top, spew oil onto the headers and cause a smoke screen that kills bugs for miles. That happens if I do a full throttle 15PSI boost blast up thru the gears !!!!!!!!! So needless to say I can't do any track days, only cruise around town off boost and drain the can weekly.
Yes sleeved and requires rings to go with the sleeve material.
A light coat of oil is used on rings by some and some do completely dry but synthetic assembly lube was used. At this point it just a guess that the assembly lube was the problem.
The head came off tonight and I will take pistons out tomorrow and start checking things out.
I have been using a MLS gasket and have a new MLS gasket to go back on. The MLS gasket is my only option for a proper fit with the 106mm bore.
I can't help with the SMT6 yet as it will be installed as the car goes back together along with the Vitesse stage 4 turbo and MAF.
Give John a call, he is very helpful and can tell you anything you need to know about the SMT6.
I am open to any suggestion as what is causing my problems.
Problem 1) 11% leakage past rings on all 4 cylinders,(since new) so not 1 bad 3 good
Problem 2) oil smoke out the exhaust, not bad but it does smoke.
Problem 3 and the major problem ) Oil is blown out the oil/air separator in huge amounts if on boost, as in, it will fill up a Lindsey catch can (I had to install to keep oil out of the intake) and blow out the filter top, spew oil onto the headers and cause a smoke screen that kills bugs for miles. That happens if I do a full throttle 15PSI boost blast up thru the gears !!!!!!!!! So needless to say I can't do any track days, only cruise around town off boost and drain the can weekly.
#17
David/All,
I too have the infamous 2.8 sleeved with 106mm bore, except from HR (I know...ouch) and get very nervous reading these threads. At what point (in terms of miles) did you experience oil out exhaust and blow by? I now have 2200 miles on mine and have no sign of blow by or exhaust smoke, however I'm still nervous. Any details or theories you guys have on these setups and what we might expect is appreciated. I too just want a motor that runs as new so I can enjoy the car for years to come….yeah I know, rather optimistic but I like to think after spending as much money as we do on ”projects” like this, it will pay off in fun and enjoyment in driving the P-car.
d
I too have the infamous 2.8 sleeved with 106mm bore, except from HR (I know...ouch) and get very nervous reading these threads. At what point (in terms of miles) did you experience oil out exhaust and blow by? I now have 2200 miles on mine and have no sign of blow by or exhaust smoke, however I'm still nervous. Any details or theories you guys have on these setups and what we might expect is appreciated. I too just want a motor that runs as new so I can enjoy the car for years to come….yeah I know, rather optimistic but I like to think after spending as much money as we do on ”projects” like this, it will pay off in fun and enjoyment in driving the P-car.
d
#18
Originally posted by ibdavid
David/All,
I too have the infamous 2.8 sleeved with 106mm bore, except from HR (I know...ouch) and get very nervous reading these threads. At what point (in terms of miles) did you experience oil out exhaust and blow by? I now have 2200 miles on mine and have no sign of blow by or exhaust smoke, however I'm still nervous. Any details or theories you guys have on these setups and what we might expect is appreciated. I too just want a motor that runs as new so I can enjoy the car for years to come….yeah I know, rather optimistic but I like to think after spending as much money as we do on ”projects” like this, it will pay off in fun and enjoyment in driving the P-car.
d
David/All,
I too have the infamous 2.8 sleeved with 106mm bore, except from HR (I know...ouch) and get very nervous reading these threads. At what point (in terms of miles) did you experience oil out exhaust and blow by? I now have 2200 miles on mine and have no sign of blow by or exhaust smoke, however I'm still nervous. Any details or theories you guys have on these setups and what we might expect is appreciated. I too just want a motor that runs as new so I can enjoy the car for years to come….yeah I know, rather optimistic but I like to think after spending as much money as we do on ”projects” like this, it will pay off in fun and enjoyment in driving the P-car.
d
If you can run on boost without any sign of smoke, you should be in good shape.
The leakdown will tell you the overall condition of the motor.
#19
Originally posted by michael2e
Now I just have to figure out how to tune that SMT6 - any tips? Thanks
Now I just have to figure out how to tune that SMT6 - any tips? Thanks
Mike, Follow the direction I sent out with the kit. Feel free to contact me for any additional support.. With the stage 2, you should have a MAP file to load that gets you 95% there...
#20
Hey David,
You might want to research the in car rebuild option here on the forumns. I was advised not to go that route as it is near impossible to get the crank and girdle re-installed properly without flipping the engine.
Of course if you are going to push the pistons and rods out the top this may not be an issue. Still how will you remove the glaze from the cylinder walls without mucking up the inside of your engine?
Remember luck does not factor into these jobs; only cleanliness and precision matter.
-Matt
You might want to research the in car rebuild option here on the forumns. I was advised not to go that route as it is near impossible to get the crank and girdle re-installed properly without flipping the engine.
Of course if you are going to push the pistons and rods out the top this may not be an issue. Still how will you remove the glaze from the cylinder walls without mucking up the inside of your engine?
Remember luck does not factor into these jobs; only cleanliness and precision matter.
-Matt
#21
Hey Matt,
Crank will stay in place, pistons out the top.
My thoughts on the deglazing is to cover and mask off everything but the cylinder. I bought a small drill mount hone, a little oil and a few passes up and down the cylinder walls should do it. Yes ? No ? Maybe ?
I am open to suggestions.
Crank will stay in place, pistons out the top.
My thoughts on the deglazing is to cover and mask off everything but the cylinder. I bought a small drill mount hone, a little oil and a few passes up and down the cylinder walls should do it. Yes ? No ? Maybe ?
I am open to suggestions.