Seeing as the summer is coming up, I'm dying to finally get the 951 onto the track to participate in a driver ed event. Since I've never done this before, I'm interested in what kind of checklist is necessary to make sure the car is in proper shape (especially the items specific to a 951).

In addition to what parts and components need to be fresh/new, how used can other stuff be (brake pads, fluids, tires)? Basically, I'd rather put some $ into learning to drive while resisting the urge for those attractive horsepower mods.

Thanks in advance.

 

Thats a very good question.

I'd jump on over to the Racing board and post. (if there isnt already a few posts about it)

 

Here's a start. It may be overkill for DE but not in my opinion.
Time Trial Tech List

Here's a few from another list I found.
Helmet
Gloves
Driving shoes
Fire suit
Nomex underwear
Extension cord
Trans plug socket
Jack and jackstand plywood
Plastic ties
Fan
Small towels
Fan belts
Hat
Fan belt wrench
Fuses
Video camera
Flashlight
Video cassettes:
Chair
Battery charger
Cooler
Wide angle lens
Water and food
Hot Lap Timer w/ batteries
Jumper cables
Brake cleaner
Car cover
Brake pads
Directions to track
Brake fluid
Check trailer lug nuts
Oil
Tech form
Rags
Hand cleaner
Paper towels
Brake bleeding bottle w/ hose
Shoe polish
Windex
Baby wipes (when you have kids, you'll understand)
Tire pressure gauge
Sunscreen
Torque wrenches: 3/8", 1/2"
Hat
Bleeder screw wrenches
Sunglasses
Timing light
Allen wrenches
Wrenches: All
Screwdrivers
Ratchets: 1/4", 3/8", 1/2"
Regular Sockets
Extensions: 1/4", 3/8", 1/2"
Impact gun
Impact sockets
Pliers
Wheel bearing cover plate
Floor jack
Jack Stands: Small, 4
Fuel jugs
Fuel jug filler spout
Tow strap
Trailer chain and lock
Race numbers
Tow straps
Come-a-long puller
Food
Drinks

 

I would worry about how worn your pads are (good idea to have %70+ before the start of a weekend), make sure your cooling system is functioning correctly, and topped off. Suspension pieces must be tight and secure. Make sure battery is secured also. Extra oil is a very good idea as wel.

Bring plenty of water to drink, and have fun.

PS: Very good idea to learn how to drive before spending dough on other modifications.
Ahmet

 

Thanks for the excellent and comprehensive list!
(and if I don't have a trailer... just kidding)

Yeah, resisting the urge to throw $300 into a chip or $300 into a DE is quite a battle.

 

Dan D,
That is a damn good list.............mmmmmmmmm, no bourbon for post track bench racing at the hotel.

 

Well, to be honest, you don't need that much for a DE. However, being a 15 year old car I ended up bringing most of the items and using less than half.
The main thing to bring is a smile and the main thing to leave home is your ego.
You'll have a great time!

 

Haha, good point there.

Did a lot of thinking about the car today (both while driving it and not). A long time ago I made a thread/post asking what a list of upgrades to take a 951 to 300 rwhp would be, and the proper order in which to do each upgrade (as more and more $ becomes available). I searched for quite some time for this list but could not find it. So just wondering if people with these upgrades could chime in on this topic as well.

Thanks in advance (again).

 

Well Kurt, I just noticed that we have twins. My stock 86 has fukes also.

My track car should be somewhere between 330 and 360 rwhp. However, it's having cylinder problems and isn't making near that much.
Nevertheless. Here is what I've done to it so far.
Started with Autothority II chips. Approx 225 rwhp.
Went to HR MAF Stage III and open exhaust. Approx 250 rwhp. Probably should have been more.
Currently added T04E Turbo with .54 trim Turibine and 8cm compressor from Tec. Also SMT6 piggyback computer with 65# injectors. To get the HP I expect I'll have to upgrade the wastegate. Seems to be a weak link on these cars at their age.

300HP is kinda an odd amount to shoot for. Without upgrading the turbo, it's hard to hit at reasonable boost levels. A more realistic level would be a MAF or MAP kit w/chips and 3" exhaust including wastegate and boost controller. That would be about 270-280 RWHP at 18psi.
Adding a turbo and injectors would bump it up to about 350 rwhp depending on the turbo selected and boost run.

Honestly, for autocross and track the 275rwhp model is hard to beat because you get quick spool and the wastegate upgrade would hold boost to redline. At the AX course, I find it hard to ever hold the throttle to the floor for even a few seconds.

If you're planning to go all the way on the car, skip the piggybacks and go to standalone. It's a much smarter way to go. (Although, I'm real happy with my SMT6 piggyback).

If you just want to go with chips, Danno's chips are hard to beat. He was nearly matching the HP of my MAF car with only a chip kit upgrade.

Vitesse has some nice kits that have some impressive HP figures.

Have I confused you?

 

Thanks for the info. The only confusion I have is determining which "plan" I've concocted to follow.

I might just go the basic chips & some suspension goodies while saving the $ for a Vitesse Stage 2 (their numbers from that thing are just insane). But my plans change every minute, so we'll see what happens when the money is available.

 

Kurt you can hit 300rwhp with
Guru 18psi chips
Dp wastegate
Maf, or Map
Mbc
full exhaust
65lb injectors
and some sort of piggy back.

 

Thanks John, now what do you think the proper order for that list would be (accounting for safety and normal updating/replacing throughout)?

 

Kurt,

If you go MAP, the boost control is built in, so no MBC required as you will have an EBC, also, the MAP is a piggy back system (or Link 1 or 2 which are stand alone MAP based systems). So do the chips and MAP system at the same time if you chose piggy back type. This will remove a huge amount of necessary parts from your car. I think you would almost need to do all of these things at once, as they are equally important in seeing the benefits of the setup. Any one thing left out will pose a significant restriction. If you had to do an order that made the most sense I would think. WG, Exhaust, MAP (with boost and chips), then injectors. You will have to detune till you get injectors in. You will probably need a bigger turbo soon after. If you leave the MAP/MAF choice till the end, give you the flexibility to change your mind! The exhaust and WG will always be of benefit and not too much controversy about them, but the MAF and MAP are more personal. Just gives you time to think. I did the reverse! Got the Link2 and then did the WG/injectors, I felt more control earlier was better. Hell I dont know now I think about it, just buy what you can afford at the time.

 

If your goal is to have a great DE car (and in my mind that means streetable as well) I wouldn't worry about huge power to start. A 951 with some suspension work and mild HP upgrades is a really quick track car. I wouldn't go overboard with upgrades, or what you plan to bring to the track for your first DE event. Check with your local PCA as they will have a tech check list of items to go over on your car before it hits the track, and other than oil (you should check your oil levels several times during the day at the track) a Helmet, and tire pressure guage you should be fine. There will be other experienced Track Junkies at any DE event, and I have always found that they are willing to help out the new people, and they will have the items on the list above.

Just my 2 cents

 

The most important criterion for DE use is reliability. You want a car that will give you the track time you paid for, remember that the stress the car endures is much greater than on the street. Then you want enough power to pass those that are fast on the straights and slow in the corners, so you can get some clear track. Building a 951 engine that can stay with a 993 or 996 Turbo is very expensive if it's going to also be reliable, so I set my target at a regular 993 or 996, which means about 300 flywheel hp, and went with a K26/8 plus good chips. If you want to drive rather than fiddle, keep it simple. I've seen a number of 350-375 hp 951 track cars that always have their hood up halfway through the weekend. A dyno run is not the same as 50 hours of track time.