Well AlexE and I were at the dyno today giving the old car a bit of a workout.

I have a guru stage 1 map with the stealth look. Running Danno's new 18psi chips at 16 Psi and boost falling off pretty good to about 13ish. I also have a test pipe. I had gone in with an estimate of 270hp and 300ft#. I was pretty close, but I guess the boost falls further than I thought. I don't think the engine has been opened up in 15 years so I was pretty happy nothing exploded on the shop floor. Man, That car gives me a heart attack when you hear it from the outside with the hood open at full boost.

Anyway, here's the chart:

 

Nice

 

I bet if you cleaned up the AFR a bit you could squeeze some more ponies out of it... Looks good though! Just need a new wastegate and boost controller to help with the roll off... A new turbo would help too

 

Justin: What WG are you running? I also have the 18 psi chips and just installed new 55 lb/hr injectors this weekend. A new Guru WG goes in later this week and after that I'm heading to the dyno. With the old chips, stock injectors, and stock shimmed WG I pulled 270 rwhp, with the boost dropping to 13 psi at redline. Hopefully the new WG will help keep a flatter boost profile.

 

I have a really worn stock shimmed wastegate. It was off the car last year and the valve is really worn. I'm considering getting in on this most recent group buy. If I could hold that 300ft# tq for a little longer I think peak HP would really jump up.

The first run was a baseline and then I adjusted some of the full boost zones to bring the A/F back onto the chart and tried to get that lean spike at 3600 under control. This was the first time I'd ever even seen a dyno so I was trying to learn everything quickly and see how the A/F reacted to inputs from the tuning module.

I am curious why leaning it out in the upper ranges didn't change the hp much. It's a little tough to adjust too because of the interpolation between cells, so as I increased one area others started to drift. With the link tuning module do the adjustments move the point at which the zone is associated or does it move a range of 500rpm? For example: is 935 3500rpm or is it 3500-4000?

J.

 

I've also noticed that in the upper rpm ranges, hp is less sensitive to A/F ratio than in the lower ranges. The zone 935 is actually centered at 3750 rpm, and similarly for the other cells. Interpolation is used between cells, so I think there is some "spillover" from one cell to its neighbors when the tuning adjustments are large enough.

 

When I have some free time I'll post up each individual dyno run and the adjustments I made between each. They may be useful for anyone else who is a complete newbie to the dyno. I think I created that rich spot at 3750 by richening the crap out of zone 935 in attempts to get that little lean hump under 14. In retrospect, maybe I should have been hitting the lower boost zones a bit more in that area as it was probably not in the 900s yet.

What the hell is up with the wild leanness at 1500? is this perhaps related to the stumble?

 

Hey justin grats on your $'s!. I know you have to be happy with that tq number. Considering you are on stock wastegate and you have falling boost issues I think your original estimate would be quite possible. Not to mention your a/r. Things over all though look really good considering the work done.

Keep us posted on your progress. Your car is rare.

 

anyone have any hp info on the stage II kit? I'm trying to decide between the two.

 

keep an eye on the AFR in that lean zone, and ask danno about it. i know he deliberately programs in a lean spot for that area, but i'm not sure he intended it to go *that* lean.

and yeah, the noise is terrifying isn't it?

 

Nice. Definately try to clean up the air/fuel a bit. But once you are making and holding 18psi, should be a ton more power put down

You'll love it once you get the GURU wastegate in there.

 

Justin, that looks pretty good. You got pretty much what everyone else, including us got at 15-16psi max-boost. The only thing you need to do is rich up around 3500rpm and lean out 4000rpm and you're there. Then you can slowly increase max-boost to 18psi and you'll end up with around 320-330 lb•ft torque and about 300-310rwhp if you can hold max-boost a little better (you'll need larger injectors too).

Here's the general dyno-tuning procedure:

1. Print out several blank 3D zone worksheets: AFMLINKZoneWorksheet-blank2.gif

2. Set your TuningModule to the "ZN AFM ___ 0%" screen to see in realtime the actual zone on the 3D map you're using.

3. With the dyno-operator running the car, trace the full-load air-flow path through the 3D map on a blank worksheet. The lines I drew on there are for reference only, a TurboS car will have more lag and won't hit max-boost as early. So when the dyno-guy hits full-throttle around 2000rpm, look to see what zone your car is operating in, place your pencil on that zone, (most likely 620), then trace the path through to redline (purple-line below).

Everyone needs to draw the actual path used by their car or else you end up making adjustments in zones you're not even using. It's only by sheer interpolation with massive +/- 50% adjustments in the wrong zones that makes changes show up coincidentally and accidentally.

4. Then overlay your dyno-sheet on top of then blank-worksheet to see what adjustments are needed:

In this case, the purple line represents the likely path through the 3D map your particular car takes. I'm guessing based upon your feedback, but this is the likely scenario.

Please note that the adjustments you make are at the center of the cells. So zone 935 adjusts 3750rpm and 18psi. You also have to account for roughly a 250rpm lag with the wide-band O2-sensor. That's partly due to the time it takes for the exhaust to travel from the cylinder to the actual tail-pipe sensor itself (green arrows).

So your adjustments for the blue air-fuel ratio plot is pretty darn close. The only thing you need to do now is make some minor, minor adjustments to get up to 18psi:

ZN 720-725: +2%
ZN 825-830: +2%
ZN 930: +3% ZN 830: +1.5%
ZN 935: -2% ZN 835: -1.0%
ZN 940: +1% ZN 840: +0. 5%

It's usually a good idea to feather your adjustments into the 800-row zones as well. I usually take 50% of the adjustments from the 900-zones and stick those in the 800-row zones as well. These are all additive/subtractive from the existing adjustment numbers you have in there now. Good job!

 

OK Danno. Here are the adjustments I made to get from red to blue. Can you make some sense of this? Any suggestions on what I should change to keep things safe and efficient?

735 +5%
835 +5%
930 +15%
935 +22%
940 -7%
945 -18%
955 -5%
960 -5%
965 0%

TIA
Justin

 

After all is said and done that is a really nice setup that danno sells. The product definitely produces. Good job Danno!

Adjusting the cells did not take much and for the first time doing it, it went incredibly smooth. No wasted dyno time.

All we need now is a way you can run two maps and we can have those flames shooting out the tail pipe!

 

OK- I've seen this phrased both ways, soi, now I have to ask...

A/F- the normal ratio for our cars is ~12:1- right?

Now- if we are running 14:1, then, we are lean, right?

So, 10:1 would be rich, right?

In other words, 14:1 means 14(air) to 1(fuel), so, it's lean on fuel & 10(air) to 1(fuel) is rich b/c it is rich on fuel, right?

for SOME reason, this has always confused me a bit- maybe I have some dislexic qualities or something But, do I have this right?

BTW- very nice TQ curve- great #'s... when you get it tuned completely, it should be INCREDIBLE for the mild list of mods....