DJtheDJ

I have an 86 turbo and here is what is going on. It was starting fine, but cranking fairly slow. Then, it stopped cranking. Turn the key and the starter would click and the power went out. I discovered a cracked terminal on the battery, so I replaced both terminals. Started up fine. Turned it off, went to start it again and got the same click and all power (12v) ended. Since then, I have gone under and cleaned the grounds, checked the wiring and cleaned the positive connectors as well. I ran a wire set from a spare fresh battery to the solenoid and again it would only click, not crank. Also cranked the engine by hand to make sure it wasn't locked. So I swapped out the starter with a new one (not Bosch) and that starter would spin, but not engage the flywheel (it would just hum).both from the ignition and the spare wire setup. Spoke to a local 944 wiz and he suggested grinding part of the starter because some of the repros have a flaw in the casing that creates interference with the flywheel. Anyway, I ground that out, it fits fine and just hums. So, that starter is now back in the box and a third starter was installed yesterday. It's a Bosch, it is the correct one from an 86 turbo. It was bench tested and works properly. But guess what. Installed it does the same thing as the original. Turn the key, the fuel pump primes, the starter clicks but doesn't crank. The only difference is it doesn't kill all the power. I have not tried the second battery direct to the solenoid yet. I can change a starter really fast now but that doesn't help if they won't crank the engine. Also the battery is showing 12.6v when I test it. However, Now I'm thinking I never load tested the battery. Any suggestions otherwise?

Millermatic

My first thought is the battery. I did the same thing about a year ago. Bought a new starter... only to find out it was the battery. Do you have a known good one you can try?

huskeric

Could be a faulty ignition switch... Also, though you've already said, check the battery contacts and perhaps use a terminal/cable cleaning tool on the batt terminals.

Strangely, I had a very similar issue that I just resolved last week. I, too, had a starter that would crank very, very slow. So, I bought a new battery and changed the starter with a rebuilt unit. Again, same issues...
It would get to the point I had to have the car towed when it died after a 3 mile drive to get gas. I got back in the car after filling, and it just cranked once - then dead. The battery still showed 12.5 volts and also connected my portable charger... Again, nothing... I ended up buying all new cables and a new alternator, though not yet installed.

Long story short - I was exploring the main ground near the firewall on top of the bell housing. As I moved one of the reference sensors, it crumbled in my hands... Yes, the crank sensor simply disintegrated and left me with the three exposed contacts. I was able to perform a half-a$$ surgery and then all my starting issues suddenly disappeared. Odd, these sensors don't take part in the starting/charging system. Ordinarily one would think a poor connection here would have no effect on cranking, though of course not allowing the car to fire. Coincidence? Unknown, but I would recommend the two sensors are making proper contact and not falling apart!

DJtheDJ

Thank you guys for the replies! I can rhyme. I do it ...often. But seriously, how about those airline peanuts. I'm going to switch batteries and then go try to check any connections I might have missed. I appreciate the assistance. I'll keep updating as I go. Won't be able to get to the car for 3 more days this week.
Denis

dme

Problem I had like this turned out to be the battery cables. I swapped batteries and starters and cleaned ALL connections. Turned out to be the main battery cables which had internal corrosion that I could not see. New cables fixed it for me.

DJtheDJ

I'm only mediocre with my multimeter, but I would assume there is a reading that would indicate resistance in those cables. Not sure what setting to use or what reading to look for though.

alex_cristocea

can you turn the enigine by hand?

jeyjey

A multimeter will tell you very little about a battery. Get a carbon pile tester.

Breakaway944

This usually means loose connection or bad battery. Are the terminals you put on making a good connection?

DJtheDJ

Yes it turns by hand

DJtheDJ

I was going to use the multi meter to test the continuity of the battery cables, not the actual battery.

DJtheDJ

I agree. I strongly think it's a connection issue. I just have to try the fresh battery and then trace all the wiring if the battery turns out useless.

DJtheDJ

I was able to scrape up 3 or 4 minutes and put my jump box on the battery. Same result, but the thunk/click of the starter seemed louder. Probably just my imagination. I don't may not get to it today. I have to leave town for a week, so it will be a while before I can post updates

Carrera51

Resurrecting this old thread because my son's 86 NA is experiencing similar symptoms after he accidentally cranked the car while it was in gear and didn't push the clutch pedal. Starter hasn't worked since. The car will fire right up and drive if we get it rolling and dump the clutch. Turn the key and and the starter just makes like a click noise then nothing. Wondering if anyone has any idea on what I should check before buying a new starter. Any advice will be appreciated.

931guru

Remove the starter and have it tested at Pepboys, Oreilly or Advanced Autoparts. If the starter is good, check the cables from the battery to the starter and from the battery to ground. It could be that your 40 year old cables are coming apart inside and cannot carry the current necessary.