CV removed...now the probs start
#1
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So, per everyones advice, I pulled my CV off this weekend when re-doing the vacuum system, belts, etc. Now I have a boost problem. Isn't this supposed to be the other way around. Shouldn't the boost problem be happening with the CV still on.... hmmm.. story of my life. Anyways, with the same reliaboost setting as before with the CV, I now only get 6 psi boots whereas before I got 15. What gives? I cranked the reliaboost all the way closed and now I can eek out maybe 12 psi. Anyone know what I did wrong? I have 15 psi vacuum at idle, and the car is running superbly otherwise. Any thoughts would be appreciated. TIA
Chris
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When the boost comes on do you hear a wooshing sound? My guess would be one of your boots are loose check all the connections to the intercooler throttle body and AFM. If the clamps are tight then feel under the boots or take them off and look for a slits in the boots.
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I overboosted when I put the Reliaboost in line with the CV. I routed it direct to the shimmed wastegate and got 6 psi boost no matter what the reliaboost was set at. I took the knurled **** out of the reliaboost and found a fragment of teflon tape that was keeping the ball from seating. Cleaned it up and reassembled everything. The reliaboost now adjusts properly and holds 17 psi boost. Sounds like you might have a similar problem; frustrating, but maybe an easy fix.
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" Anyways, with the same reliaboost setting as before with the CV, I now only get 6 psi boots whereas before I got 15. "
That is correct! You got higher boost before because the CV was venting pressure that was supposed to go towards opening the wastegate, thus higher boost with an initial spike. By removing the CV and running your own hose, you have no more leaks and the same pressure from the ReliaBoost now makes it to the wastegate to open it. You have to adjust your ReliaBoost in about 3 more turns. But now your boost-curve will be much flatter with no spikes.
That is correct! You got higher boost before because the CV was venting pressure that was supposed to go towards opening the wastegate, thus higher boost with an initial spike. By removing the CV and running your own hose, you have no more leaks and the same pressure from the ReliaBoost now makes it to the wastegate to open it. You have to adjust your ReliaBoost in about 3 more turns. But now your boost-curve will be much flatter with no spikes.
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Originally posted by cwigg66
I have the reliaboost adjusted to max boost, and still I only get 12 psi.
I have the reliaboost adjusted to max boost, and still I only get 12 psi.
I've been suspecting a vacuum/boost leak for some time, but have never been able to find a leak. Maybe it's my tired wastegate.
Strange!
Gary.
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I know the Reliaboost has the option of high and low boost springs, maybe yours got mixed up and you have the low boost springs? BoostSciences is a member on here, hopefully they'll chime in once business resumes Monday.
Sam
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Originally posted by Sam Lin
I know the Reliaboost has the option of high and low boost springs, maybe yours got mixed up and you have the low boost springs?
I know the Reliaboost has the option of high and low boost springs, maybe yours got mixed up and you have the low boost springs?
http://www.boostsciences.com/reliaboost2.html
I'll ask them on Monday. Thanks!
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Originally posted by Brett
Sorry for the silly question but where is the CV and what do you have to do to remove it?
Sorry for the silly question but where is the CV and what do you have to do to remove it?
It's simple to remove, once you have the intake manifold off. But make sure you know what you are doing before you remove it. You can do a search on "cycling valve" to find out more about this; there is a lot of info on these boards.
Cheers,
Gary.
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originally posted by newbie prat
[bold]my accuboost seems to spike a little...maybe half a psi or so. likely cause?[/bold]
[bold]my accuboost seems to spike a little...maybe half a psi or so. likely cause?[/bold]
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