Chapman951

Beautiful! Is that a AIR splitter?

JustinL

Yeah it's my second AIR splitter after I smashed the first one too many times!

The LED running/signal lights are pretty fun. I found a dual mode strip that was the right length for the clear housings, wired it up and that's how it came out. The white shuts off and it starts flashing amber when the signal light is active. I think I'll probably repackage the electronics with white electrical tape so it's harder to see passed the LED tube. I thought it would be brighter based on what it looked like in the garage, but in the sunlight, they're about right.

V2Rocket

any temperature issues with that FMIC in front of the rad?

JustinL

I did have temperature issues, but I think it was unrelated to the intercooler as I've since resolved it. I haven't run big power yet, so I can't comment yet on that. I did try to seal the intercooler to the radiator so I don't have air leaking around it... but I guess we'll see how it goes.

I also have the SFR oil cooler mounted where the stock IC goes and the radiator is the big Wizard one.

ealoken

Nice car man, what are your HP/TQ target?

JustinL

I'd like to try to hit 450RWHP. I'm running 9:1 compression custom pistons, so I'm hoping to get decently quick spool with the Precision 6062. The car isn't going to be a dyno queen, I want it to be good on the street and be reliable for track days.

ealoken

That’s a nice goal, im hoping for 500/500 but time will show

Black51

Looks awesome Justin! You'll have to take me out in it sometime so I can remember what it's like to be in a running 944 again.

Thom

FWIW I ran the SFR Stage 2 IC for several years but some observations quickly led me to make some ducting from the upper inlet in the bumper (originally used for the standard IC) to force air through the upper section of the radiator, and to install a flat plate between the top of the front mount IC core and the middle of the radiator, so that the higher pressure from the air building up from the upper bumper inlet in the upper area of the rad would not mess with the lower pressure area from the air coming out through the IC core in the front of the lower area of the rad. Without these additional ducting and plate not only the rad would not be exposed sufficiently to fresh air but also the IC would perform less well and the engine would run slightly hotter.

Cool intake manifold, it was on a car that made a lot of power in the past.

Anyway, congrats on the build and wish you much fun.

JustinL

Unfortunately that's where a giant oil cooler now sits. I used the factory plastic ducting and trimmed it to funnel air through the oil cooler. I've been out to 2 track days so far and no problems at all with heat, though they haven't been the hottest days and I'm still not running more than 160kpa of manifold pressure. I will deal with additional cooling when the need arises and I have some ideas with ducting or a second radiator.

I'm slowly fine tuning the ignition timing maps and watching my knocksense MS logs closely, but so far no knock has been heard or detected. The first track day engine noise was being read in as knock and retarded the ignition timing below 4000 by 10 degrees, I wan't super happy that I didn't notice that until examining the logs, but after adjusting the sensitivity of the knocksense unit, I'm only seeing a whiff of noise being read as knock at 6000 RPM.

Lots of little things shake themselves loose hammering on it for track days, but the more time I beat on it, the more things I find to fix that don't show up in street driving.

chrenan

944s and 924s are so hot right now.

michaelmount123

Gorgeous car! I'm curious to know how that intake works on the dyno. Hopefully you'll post results.

JustinL

For sure! I don't have a big ego to worry about so if we can learn something I'm happy to post it up. The turbo I'm using is a bit slow to build boost, so that is my next area of attack. I get about 2 psi at 3000 RPM and full boost by 4000. Right now I'm running a hose straight from the turbo to the wastegate for minimum boost, but if I can get my solenoid back on and working with the MS3x boost control I think it will rise more quickly. The turbo is a precision 6062 with the T4 .58 a/r hotside. It does feel pretty good off boost too with the bigger displacement and 9:1 compression, so at least it's not a total dog below 4000.

JustinL

So far this year I've had to leave the track once on a flatbed and once because I lost a critical bolt. The flatbed was because my crank sensor mount wasn't rigid enough and the sensor vibrated into the trigger wheel, or the fact that I used a rubber grommet for the sensor and it got too hot and squishy. Either way, that is fixed. The second early retirement was from the long turbo mount bolt backing out and falling down. That's a bad one because it falls into the steering joint! It made it a bit tricky to steer into turn 5, but I got it back to the pits safely and found the bolt had bounced down to the belly pan. I suspect that I just plain forgot to tighten that bolt That's all fixed up and I'm ready to go break something else! The electronic boost control is plumbed in and working now, but I'm still quite conservative on the boost, but it does build faster than before. I'm hitting 175kpa at 3700 RPM now. The car is starting to feel fast again every once and a while especially with some sticky rubber.

Attachment 1342086

chrenan

JustinL is back out there breaking hearts.