I have no idea, have not been to a dyno yet. But based on collective net wisdom, my +90% duty cycle, 55# injectors, 12.5:1 AFR and a T04E running at 18psi, I am hoping it will be in the 350rwhp range. But, thats all talk until I can get to a dyno.

On the street it feels strong, especially in cold weather, it pulls like a raped ape in 4th gear at anything over 2800rpm. 3rd gear runs to the redline are a trip. I walked away from a vette today in 5th gear from 70mph.

 

Your 55lbs will be running out for sure at 350. No ones likes running injectors in the 90's. The dyno made a HUGE difference for me. Drivability went up 10 fold. My tuning was ****. Much better at it now though. Waht do you reckon for these 850cc's? Just lower the master down and keep all the values?

 

Yeah, lowering the master should work and get you close. You should get a wideband and feed it into the Link, its like having a dyno whever you want. I can do a run, come back and see where my fuel curve is and then try suble changes, not only at WOT but anywhere. Now I have a nice 15:1 on very light cruise, 13:1 on moderate accel and 12.5:1 at WOT.

Its interesting that both our fuel maps are very similar apart from the master and slightly different high end values.

 

I have not seen yours yet bastard hiding it from me!!! Only the timing one ages ago. What WB did you use? with 1-5v 20-1 to 10-1 linear type? How does it hook up? There are extra wire with WB yeah? I have the link AF gauge, it rocks my world so bad.

 

Oh, and I will have white powder coated phone dials. Should be good for another 10-15RWHP.

 

Envy! Those are some sweet standalone setups. I would love to do that.

Does anybody know why MAP with the Link 2 standalone appears to be great, yet the MAP with the Link piggyback introduces all sorts of driveability issues? Is it a resolution issue? Is it the sensor? Sorry if this is rehash, just let me know and I will search.

Max

 

Its in the mail

I use a PLX wideband, its 0-5v but has an add on module that inverts and scales to 0-1v.

 

Eh? But you use it in 0 - 5v yes?

 

No need. The PLX has a built in display and the ability to drive 0-5v WB displays or data log input. WB reads 5v as lean and 0v as rich. The adapter inverts and scales so that I can get a linear, proportional 0-1v output. Now I can drive a normal O2 display and have is display WB. Look at PLXdevices.com.

Now the trick part. I have a dual rocker switch panel, One switch tells my Autometer display wheather to display NB oe WB, and one tells my Link wheather to log WB or NB...total flexibility

i.e. I can have the link logging WB, be looking at the equivelent NB and have the PLX displaying the actual WB...

 

OK in generalised terms its because standalone is DESIGNED to work with a MAP (or whatever) but a piggy back MAP to DME is not as smooth because the MAP delivers a different response over time to what the DME is expecting to see.

 

I searched but could not find any detailed info on the Home Depot mbc that Jeremy mentioned. I'm pretty sure it must be a ball and spring check valve (like the famous Grainger valve) but I'm not sure where to look or what to ask for. What PSI range do I ask for?

Sorry to jump in so late on the thread.

With a big case of turbo envy, Lynn, '86 951

 

Like these.... ?

 

Kind of, got a better shot? Did those inectors leave in the weekend?

 

If you have a dual wastegate, a check valve type valve is NOT what you need. You will need a simple bleeder valve, same as the one used by air compressors.

 

Nope, those injectors wont be able to leave until tomorrow