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I would still strongly recommend doing your pan gasket and rod bearings. That is a miserable job ( you are pretty close already) and while you have the crossover and all that off you might as well get it done.
First post in a couple of months. The big job was getting all of the head studs out of the block. I was only able to remove two of the ten by double-nutting only. I then tried welding the nut to the top of the stud. Got a few more out that way, but there were a couple that just broke my welds. On those two, I double-nutted them, jammed them as tight as I could, then welded the top nut on. I was finally able to get them broken loose. They were ridiculously, unnecessarily tight! I think they are the ones installed at the factory in 1986, and there seemed to be some hard residue, like chips of clear glue, at the bottom of the threads. Was this some sort of sealant or threadlocker? Any suggestions on installing the new ones? I wouldn't think Loctite would even work, especially in the lower holes that are filled with engine oil. Anyway, glad to get all the studs and broken bolts out of the head without having to remove the engine. Now I need to clean the piston tops using WD40 and a Scotchbrite pad as Dan suggests.
Here's the jam nut I welded to the final stud. And starting to clean up the pistons.
Now a question I've been pondering. Where are the passages that take oil to and from the cylinder head? It seems that the annulus between the lower head studs and the block might serve as an oil passage being that they are full of oil. What do the rectangular holes do... return for the oil back to the block? What about the small round hole near the back of the head on the bottom? Photo below.
Oil passages? Nope. Just clearance space around the head studs.
What is this? That's the pressurized oil feed to the head and cam tower.
What are these rectangular holes? They're oil drains.
Wanted to reply to a specific post in this thread but couldn't remember how to do that. The post is above.
Reading through this, I remembered something I did when dropping an engine in to assist with aligning to the bell-housing.
I cut the heads off two of the bolts that I had used to hold the engine on the the engine stand, then slotted them for a standard screw driver. I screwed these "bolt-screws" into the bell-housing. When I went to install the engine, I simply aligned to the two bolts and it slid right on perfectly aligned.
Thinking that this trick might work nicely for aligning the transaxle to the transaxle bell-housing as well (as long as the bolts aren't too long (your comment about not having a lot of clearance between the spare tire to work. Once aligned, drop in the other bolts, then back out the "bolt-screws" and insert the real bolts.
I may give that a shot.
Last edited by nc_growler; 07-29-2020 at 06:37 PM.
Reason: Added link to specific post reference.
12-20-2019, 07:02 AM
