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Old 03-23-2019, 04:04 PM
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bobhope
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Default my car sucks

I've lost the joy in owning my 944 turbo. Honestly I pour so much love and MONEY into it and still I get problems. So recently I replaced my battery , but my car keeps draining the battery when off. I replaced the cooling fan sensor that was thought to be cause of the battery problem,but afterwards the problem is still there. So I'm going to replace my sparkplug cables because I read some where that this oculd be the cause of draining battery and rough idles which my car also has. What do I do. I'm desperate at this point.
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Old 03-23-2019, 04:43 PM
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I know how frustrating troubleshooting can be, especially if you are throwing money at a problem to try to fix it. Battery drain should not be too difficult to track down where those electrons are running off to. It's a simple process of elimination. Watch this video and you should be able to narrow down your problem in less than 30 minutes. Then post which fuse or fused circuits are the problem.

https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+use+an+ohm+meter+to+test+battery+draw&oq=how+to+use+an+o hm+meter+to+test+battery+draw&aqs=chrome..69i57.18196j0j4&sourceid=silk& ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=1

Good luck.
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Old 03-23-2019, 04:49 PM
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Honestly this is why I love this community. Thanks so much !
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Old 03-23-2019, 07:42 PM
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I would also check if alternator is charging the battery.
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Old 03-23-2019, 09:16 PM
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Tom M'Guinn
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Originally Posted by bobhope View Post
I've lost the joy in owning my 944 turbo. Honestly I pour so much love and MONEY into it and still I get problems. So recently I replaced my battery , but my car keeps draining the battery when off. I replaced the cooling fan sensor that was thought to be cause of the battery problem,but afterwards the problem is still there. So I'm going to replace my sparkplug cables because I read some where that this oculd be the cause of draining battery and rough idles which my car also has. What do I do. I'm desperate at this point.
Your spark plug cables are not draining your battery. That would be a bad use of money unless you otherwise need new spark plug cables. Your battery is dying for one of two reasons: 1) something is draining the battery when the car is shut off, or 2) the alternator is not charging the battery when you drive the car. The second one is SUPER easy to check with a multimeter. Start the car and let it idle. While it is running, check the voltage on the battery terminals with a multimeter. It should be up close to 14 volts. If it's not in the 13.5-14.2 range, then your alternator (or its regulator) isn't working in all likelihood. If you do see 14v plus or minus, then the alternator is working and something is draining the battery when the car is off. At that point, you'd need to check the parasitic drain as shown in that video linked above. Doing those tests are free and will point you to what's wrong so you don't get frustrated buying random parts that don't fix the problem. Also, even though it's a Porsche, these are time-honored diagnostic tests that can be done by any local auto mechanic if needed -- no special Porsche knowledge needed really.
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Old 03-23-2019, 09:32 PM
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Pull fuses to find the draw
mike
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Old 03-23-2019, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by NYPOWR4 View Post
Pull fuses to find the draw
mike
Yes, this is the easiest way to isolate which circuit is draining the battery. Connect an ammeter in series with the negative battery cable, or even better, use an inductive amp clamp if you have access to one. If there are any aftermarket accessories (stereo, alarm, etc) connected to the battery positive cable or elsewhere, disconnect these first.

In almost 15 years of working on Porsches for a living, the most common battery drain on '80s-era cars ('84+ 911s and '85.5+ 944s) is caused by faulty and/or corroded door contact switches. This does not cause the interior light to stay on (in fact it causes the interior light to not work at all in the door switch-activated position), but instead causes the power window relay to remain activated. This is because these cars are wired to enable the driver to close the windows after the ignition is switched off, but before the doors are opened (once the doors are opened, terminal 85b of the power window relay is grounded via the door contact switch, which de-activates the relay. A faulty or corroded switch will cause the relay to stay activated, which is about a 200 milliamp (0.2 amp) drain on the battery. This is very easy to verify---if you can operate the power windows with the ignition switched off and the door(s) open, you have found your issue!

When I first started at my shop as an apprentice, I was tasked with diagnosing a battery drain on a 964. My boss (who is from Germany) knew exactly what the problem was, and gave me the factory wiring diagram manual and told me to figure it out. I had no idea about this particular power window relay arrangement, so it took me most of the day to figure it out!

Last edited by Droops83; 03-23-2019 at 10:49 PM.
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Old 03-24-2019, 01:21 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by Droops83 View Post
Yes, this is the easiest way to isolate which circuit is draining the battery. Connect an ammeter in series with the negative battery cable, or even better, use an inductive amp clamp if you have access to one. If there are any aftermarket accessories (stereo, alarm, etc) connected to the battery positive cable or elsewhere, disconnect these first.

In almost 15 years of working on Porsches for a living, the most common battery drain on '80s-era cars ('84+ 911s and '85.5+ 944s) is caused by faulty and/or corroded door contact switches. This does not cause the interior light to stay on (in fact it causes the interior light to not work at all in the door switch-activated position), but instead causes the power window relay to remain activated. This is because these cars are wired to enable the driver to close the windows after the ignition is switched off, but before the doors are opened (once the doors are opened, terminal 85b of the power window relay is grounded via the door contact switch, which de-activates the relay. A faulty or corroded switch will cause the relay to stay activated, which is about a 200 milliamp (0.2 amp) drain on the battery. This is very easy to verify---if you can operate the power windows with the ignition switched off and the door(s) open, you have found your issue!

When I first started at my shop as an apprentice, I was tasked with diagnosing a battery drain on a 964. My boss (who is from Germany) knew exactly what the problem was, and gave me the factory wiring diagram manual and told me to figure it out. I had no idea about this particular power window relay arrangement, so it took me most of the day to figure it out!
Thanks - I noticed that on my S2 (window stays powered). I have always had to keep my battery connected to a trickle charger due to drain. Can you successfully restore these switches through cleaning?
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Old 03-24-2019, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Eric_Oz_S2 View Post
Thanks - I noticed that on my S2 (window stays powered). I have always had to keep my battery connected to a trickle charger due to drain. Can you successfully restore these switches through cleaning?
Yes, in most cases one can remove the switch and work the plunger back and forth while spraying it with electrical contact cleaner. The body ground at the door post should also be cleaned. If this does not work, the switches are available new from Porsche parts suppliers, current version has a 968 part number.
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Old 03-24-2019, 04:53 PM
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Dan Martinic
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Originally Posted by Droops83 View Post
Yes, this is the easiest way to isolate which circuit is draining the battery. Connect an ammeter in series with the negative battery cable, or even better, use an inductive amp clamp if you have access to one. If there are any aftermarket accessories (stereo, alarm, etc) connected to the battery positive cable or elsewhere, disconnect these first.

In almost 15 years of working on Porsches for a living, the most common battery drain on '80s-era cars ('84+ 911s and '85.5+ 944s) is caused by faulty and/or corroded door contact switches. This does not cause the interior light to stay on (in fact it causes the interior light to not work at all in the door switch-activated position), but instead causes the power window relay to remain activated. This is because these cars are wired to enable the driver to close the windows after the ignition is switched off, but before the doors are opened (once the doors are opened, terminal 85b of the power window relay is grounded via the door contact switch, which de-activates the relay. A faulty or corroded switch will cause the relay to stay activated, which is about a 200 milliamp (0.2 amp) drain on the battery. This is very easy to verify---if you can operate the power windows with the ignition switched off and the door(s) open, you have found your issue!

When I first started at my shop as an apprentice, I was tasked with diagnosing a battery drain on a 964. My boss (who is from Germany) knew exactly what the problem was, and gave me the factory wiring diagram manual and told me to figure it out. I had no idea about this particular power window relay arrangement, so it took me most of the day to figure it out!
This is one cool insider tip.. thanks
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Old 03-25-2019, 08:00 AM
  #11  
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Thanks Droops... Valuable info right here!
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Old 03-31-2019, 11:36 AM
  #12  
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I fought with my battery draining last winter. Part of the problem was me. I would pull the car into the garage and immediately open the hood to let the engine cool. This caused the hood switch to pull voltage from the battery. The light wasn't on but it had something to do with the factory alarm. So i removed the switch and no more problem there but I was still getting battery draw. I pulled every fuse, still couldn't find the issue. I then realized it was the factory alarm unit. I bypassed it and removed the alarm module and no more battery draw. I fought for over 2 years.

It's definitely NOT your sparkplug cables.

Now I'm dealing with my car only cruising in open loop when the headlights are on!!

I still hate my car due to all the time money and frustration but I'm sorting it out one problem at a time.

Good luck.
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Old 03-31-2019, 12:59 PM
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I have had to rebuild or replace just about every major component and many minor components on my 951 and there’s still nothing in the engine bay, yet I’ll never hate it. I haven’t drove it in years but never will I hate it. That’s like saying I hate myself, my mom would say “I’m not much but I’m all I think about” and that’s what’s up, I guess. These cars are a challenge to make perfect. Remember the models with skill levels on the box? Well this is like a 17 skill level on a 1-20 car rebuild scale. It’s not like we all have Crazy Eddie OCD bling shine going on so there is that(add another two numbers on his skill level). Let’s keep things positive here, let’s hold onto that we can do it attitude you know. It’s just a mindset and a big hella cool model that you can customize.
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Old 03-31-2019, 02:29 PM
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Another thing to consider is that we all think of the alternator as a one way valve... BUT Old Diodes will LEAK current... Back to ground...they WILL Drain Batteries... e-z to check with a meter in-line for current draw....
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Old 03-31-2019, 08:10 PM
  #15  
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In case you guys didn't know... and you probably didn't since this is a new product. But this can assist in circumstances like you speak of... IN the next post I'll post a video from Eric the car guy that is really good for tracking parasitic draws...

We make a new Bluetooth Battery Monitor. It will track your real time voltage and 31 days of historical voltage and send it do you phone if you are within 30 ft of the car. So if you walk by the car not even thinking of it you will get your data put on you phone. This also means you don't have to check the car to see real time voltage, just open the app. It will also send you an alert if you battery is getting low, so you know to put it on a charger. And if you review you historical data while the car is in storage then you can see how fast you car drains during storage and get and idea of how long you can let it sit before it needs to be put on the charger. Last it also has a Cranking Test and an Alternator Test... We make them for Lead/Acid Batteries as well as our Lithium-Ion Batteries...but they can work on Motorcycles, RVs or any 12v systems to track your batteries healt. Also you can track up to 5 Batteries on one Phone.

Web page is HERE>>> https://shop.antigravitybatteries.co...acker-lithium/

Video

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