Sorry, not a whole lot don't this week. Yesterday I fabbed a (ugly!) throttle cable mount (using NA cable/Ford 5.0ltr TB/951 intake manifold). The angle of the cable has to come from down low for the for cam and as a result the pedal was sluggish. Installed a NA throttle body return spring & what a difference. Its snappy now!

 

Rauh enough?

 

RAUH means "Rough" in German.
So the last 2 weeks have been slow progression. Mostly wiring. Took aftermarket relay and fuse panel & brought them into the cab.
I find as much as I love wiring, I also get confused or overwhelmed by the multitude of things going on, but I think I'm on the right path.
Couple things: SDS EFI doesn't loose the programming as long as you save the info (it's stored in the ECU even without 12 v source) so that's nice.
Reconsidering the Wing and the hatch latches. Its a bit of a hot mess & I think I will go back to a 944 spoiler & different hold downs.
Mine isn't sealing & the wing is too flexible & sketchy. When can I drive this car? Well I just re-reregistered it & it's insured for the road, but I still have some loose ends before I take it around the block.
Once its running again this week I will have to electronically adjust the timing using a timing light.
Above: my log exhaust manifold. One of my biggest fears is that it will fail. I wish I made it out of thicker material. But maybe it's all in my head, time will tell I guess.

 

maybe not pretty but very functional, find a place that makes wood crates (or a hardware store?) and get some of these.
twist handle has an eccentric cam that pulls the latch closed tight.

 

Ohhhh I like that. Cam action: good!
Thanks brother.

3 pages of fun: http://www.slowlysideways.com/index....homas-schoefer

 

OHHH... quite delicious indeed. Petrolicious never fails: https://petrolicious.com/articles/hi...eturns-in-2019

 

Will this air filter pipe create enough vacuum?
One of the most mentally exhausting exercises for me on this entire project is the air management. It seems whenever I find a solution for one area it creates a problem in another area.
"Air management" considerations: emissions and gas tank venting, crankcase ventilation, brake booster vacuum, map sensors and other diaphragm type engine regulating items. It would help if I had a better understanding of the theory.

Anyway, in this pic I "Teed'' into the intake (non boosted) air filter pipe.
One hose goes to the brake booster & OAS as a method of vacuum. The other is merely a source of clean air for a 12 v air solenoid that will feed the intake manifold more air when engine management requires it at idle.

Is this going to work?

 

Stage 1: low boost , no intercooler.

 

Yipee! Okay... maybe not a great victory, but I have officially driven the car out of the garage for the first time in like 2.5 years. It felt weird. And there's a major oil leak at the oil pan where the turbo drain hose mounts to the welded bung. Also my signal lights don't work and I don't have a nose panel on, but this was a success (in a way) because over the last bit (since I posted the video of it actually starting - with friend Bearded Brian, I moved a lot of the electrical/electronics into the cabin.

 

Major leak from the turbo drain hose that came with my ebay t3/t4 turbo kit. Under closer inspection, the inside of the sealing area was scratched, caused by a crappy install. Fortunatley the kit came with another end & so I installed this p.i.t.a. with a bit more strategy to encourage better sealing. Will be testing shortly!
Also got this super thick beauty of a turbo blanket to help keep the temps lower.

 

Frig. Fix one oil leak and then another surfaces. Just praying it's not the turbo oil seal. The good: heater works, coolant is bled. And the exhaust rumbles so good.

 

Was hoping this wouldn't be the case, but it is; the oil seal of the turbo is leaking oil into the down pipe. Caught in time to not destroy the cat converter, but with less than 1 mile on the car, this is a problem. Note: the blue fitting on the left is my welded drain bung. I quickly removed the exhaust manifold cross over pipe & verified no oil coming from the power cylinders. So tomorrow I will try a few thing to determine if the problem is my drain method or the turbo itself.

 

It's hard to tell from the photo, but it appears you have a single oil drain line running directly from the turbo to the oil pan. Is that correct?

A factory turbo drain system has an oil accumulator built into the turbo mount and two hoses exiting the accumulator. The first is the large diameter drain line that runs from the bottom of the accumulator to a banjo bolt in the oil pan sump. This would be the same as the hose you have running into the side of the oil pan. The second hose runs from the top of the accumulator to the AOS. This second line serves as a vacuum break, which allows oil to flow quickly through the drain hose. Without the vacuum break, oil will drain slowly and likely cause enough back pressure to cause the issue you're having.

 

Bottom turbo drain fitting has bad flow characteristics so I bored & chamfered.


Also vastly improved the tube position.
Getting the down pipe back up is much harder than removal. My neck is sore... I had to walk away because I feel like punching this car off a cliff. Plus I gotta take a poop.

 

fortysixandtwo,

THANK YOU for stating this. I didn't know this!! Valuable information, Porsche was smart (most the time).