cpt_koolbeenz

Okay-
I've tried the brass fitting, and bending techniques to no avail. The water fitting on the turbo exits right where the bracket to hold up the intake goes. The only thing I can think of now is to get a regular banjo fitting and eliminate the turbo temp sensor. I would just run the banjo to a piece of rubber hose then to a "Y" to connect to the other hoses. Instead of the temp sensor, I would wire the circuit so the pump stays on as long as the car is running and then for 15 minutes after the car is shut off. Do you guys have any other ideas? I know some of you are running some pretty wild turbo setups and must have run into some type of problem like this...

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

BoostGuy951

How did you try to bend it? I heated mine with a MAPP gass torch that was like 30 bucks from Lowes, then when it got dull red I bent it in my hands using thick leather gloves.

BoostGuy951

I just remembered, I had to get some heater hose because after you bend it, the lower hose will not reach anymore. I just connected the pipes with a section of new heater hose from Auto Zone( < $5). No Problems since.

Why not also bend that long section of pipe that is running into the intake bracket down a couple inches, then run another new hose to where it connects to.

Bri Bro

The Turbo I have from SFR had been ground down were the pipe needed to cross. This allowed clearance for the pipe so it didn't bend up. Hope you addressed the gasket problem for the lower oil seal.

cpt_koolbeenz

I bent it with a torch as well. I realized I would need to bend it close to an 80 degree angle... Too much...
Even with bending it, it would hit the intake.

Then I cut the pipe just before the heating marks on the left to see if I could just attach a hose to it and run it over the turbo and back down again. That won't work either since the hose would have to make a 90 degree bend to clear the compressor housing bolt sticking out. I was also thinking of grinding the compressor housing to make it clear, but that woulden't get me too far since in the crotch of the outlet there is not much material I can take off before I compromise the housing.

Any opinions on my other banjo/timer idea?

WolleMS

Hi,
i´ve made a complete new pipe to connect to turbo... so there´s no problems anymore with the heat-sensor and fitting-probs with the manifold...



Regards,
Wolfgang

Ski

Check the archives and find any post by OZ951. click the link to his website and look at the brass close nipple and coupling that he used on his turbo. We used this on jwl's Vitesse stage II turbo and it worked great. The fitting will tighten up and the banjo will screw in and tighten to the coupling. Trim the bracket, cut it or notch it. None of these turbos are bolt in. Your probably going to have to grind on the turbo anyway where the bottom of the throttle body is going to hit it...the little bolts that hold the retainer plate for the spring.

here is a pic of how far his water pipe stood off from the turbo and you can see the front grind marks on the top of the turbo

David Floyd

Here is a shot of the parts Ski is talking about, works great with my TO4E

3/8" female coupling and 3/8"nipple

cpt_koolbeenz

Haha!
I have those and tried them (I mentioned it in the first post.)
They seem to work for OZ and others, but I spent about two hours trying to make them work and they didn't give me any more clearance. I know it sounds like I must not have done it right but I tried everything! Also my brass fittings wouldn't thread in the turbo for beans... About 1 turn tops. I don't have a die that big either. Even though they wouldn't go in the turbo, they went on the banjo and I could see they don't help in my situation (no idea why - can't explain it). If they did indeed help, they stuck out so far that I couldn't put the vertical bracket that connects to the underside of the intake (not sure if it is critical but I would like to keep it).

It may be an optical illusion but if you look at the pics ski posted and OZ had on his site, my compressor housing looks bigger or at least closer to the center section of the turbo than the others. That seems like my problem. Even with the brass pieces and the bending I couldn't get around the housing.

I guess my question now is, can anyone think of any problem with circulating the water through the turbo when it is cold (without the turbo heating up to 115 degrees first)?
Is that like not having a thermostat for the engine?
Does the pump in fact run when the engine is running? And if so, how does the turbo thermostat (not the electrical sensor) work in conjunction with the pump?

Well... I am headed back to the garage to re-evaluate...

fast951

cpt_koolbeenz, First cover the turbo outlet!!!

Attached are few more options. The fittings pictured on top are similar to what David posted above, get them at Home Depot. They might be a bit long, so you can get the fittings (bottom of first picture, yellow package) you can get them at Home Depot Air Tool section..




If the pipe breaks when you are bending it, you can always do something like what's in this picture...

cpt_koolbeenz

Thanks fast! John is it?
Haha the turbo outlet is plugged - I removed it for the pic.
Those bottom brass pieces do look a bit better. I will go tomorrow to look for them. That pic looks exactly like what I was thinking of doing...

dand86951

Chris, I always make a habit of trying to do things the hard way first and then try things like adapters later. On mine I went to the hydraulic hose store got a new banjo coupling the same size as is on the water pipe. It has a long barb on it to attach a hose to, but what I did was cut off the original banjo then silver soldered the new longer banjo connection on after measuring the length required to get the pipe to just clear the compressor. It worked really well and I also tilted the top just enough so that the stock water temp sender would clear the intake manifold.

A bit more work but everything came out just right.

B951S

I used the 3/8" brass fittign on my T04E....

cpt_koolbeenz

Thanks guys!
Dan I'm thinking of doing something like you did. I think possibly the easiest way to fix this is to relocate the temp sensor in front of the comp housing. I'm going to get a banjo tomorrow and see what I can do with that if these 7 fittings from Lowe's don't help.

Any ideas on post number 9?

Karbokane

I used the brass fitting from napa with no problems on mine.