Notices
944 Turbo and Turbo-S Forum 1982-1991
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: Clore Automotive

Getting my 951 on the road again

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 10-15-2018 | 06:45 PM
  #16  
teveo's Avatar
teveo
Thread Starter
Advanced
 
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 71
Likes: 13
From: Southern Norway
Default

Finally got some 1/4" silicon vaccum hose and I managed to hook up most of the vaccum system and trial-fit most everything tonight.

After mocking up everything I have a few "loose ends"/questions, hope someone have an idea!
  1. one of the heater /actuator hoses are hooked up, what should I do with the other one?
  2. there is a hose coming from the bottom off the fuel vapor stuff up left in the engine ebay, where should it go? Its seem to end almost down aside the turbo.
  3. vacuum canister, just forget about it?
I'll add some text to the photos to possibly explain better.



This one is going to one of the two nipples for the heater/actuator, why the blue piece looking like a one way valve (filter?)

What to do with the other nipple, connect to vacuum?

this is the bottom hose coming from the fuel vapor valve, where does it go? (dec 1986 car)

clear line is going to the KLR I suppose, it is getting worn and being swapped or covered with silicon hose.

not too bad, fuel vapor and still vaccum to resolve.
Old 10-16-2018 | 03:39 PM
  #17  
teveo's Avatar
teveo
Thread Starter
Advanced
 
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 71
Likes: 13
From: Southern Norway
Default

Have some time over for "research" this evening and found this link in the forum if this diagram is correct the firewall nipple/port is resolved.


Even more of a writeup here, for a 944S but I think this must be applicable for my 951.

Now I'll concentrate on the fuel vapor

Last edited by teveo; 10-16-2018 at 03:49 PM. Reason: Added a resource / link
Old 10-16-2018 | 04:11 PM
  #18  
teveo's Avatar
teveo
Thread Starter
Advanced
 
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 71
Likes: 13
From: Southern Norway
Default

Think I got it now, number 17 in the intake diagram is the same as 22 in the tank diagram. Suppose I will have to use a connector or Y-pipe connect that line into the MAF pipe.



Tank EVAP

Inlet vac
Old 10-16-2018 | 06:49 PM
  #19  
Dan Martinic's Avatar
Dan Martinic
Drifting
 
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 3,149
Likes: 159
From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Default

I thought everyone who gets an MAF does away with that evap system? In any case, do a search for Laust vacuum manifold. Trust me.
Old 10-29-2018 | 05:41 AM
  #20  
teveo's Avatar
teveo
Thread Starter
Advanced
 
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 71
Likes: 13
From: Southern Norway
Default

Thanks, havent had time to work on the 951 last weeks but seems like I will get some "garage time" this week. I searched on the Laust vacuum terms but it did not make me wiser

With some luck I hope to fire the engine end of week, I'll just connect the vapor to the MAF manifold for now. I just have to check everything is torqued down, recheck belts, new plugs and then crank it.
Old 10-29-2018 | 09:50 AM
  #21  
Dan Martinic's Avatar
Dan Martinic
Drifting
 
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 3,149
Likes: 159
From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Default

Check out this thread https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...anifold-2.html

When I contacted Laust little while ago, he had some and I got a 5-port. It's simply one little block you install in place of the vacuum banjo bolt on the intake and it has 4 or 5 nipples to run a vacuum line to each device seperately. Makes installing & diagnosing lines neat and easy.

Notice I have one unused port: perfect for future map sensor or diagnosing with vacuum guage!



Old 11-05-2018 | 07:12 AM
  #22  
teveo's Avatar
teveo
Thread Starter
Advanced
 
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 71
Likes: 13
From: Southern Norway
Default

OK thanks, I may look into this in the future to cleanup the engine bay further.

For now most everything is hooked up, it's just the electric turbo cooling pump, distributor and the the intake/MAF to install. Hope to start it end of week.




Old 09-22-2019 | 03:56 AM
  #23  
teveo's Avatar
teveo
Thread Starter
Advanced
 
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 71
Likes: 13
From: Southern Norway
Default

Another year gone but finally fired up the engine yesterday however it leaked fuel from the press fit supply line and had to stop it after a few secs, at least it fired up.

Left the vacuum line from the tank for now but as soon as I get engine running as it should I'll look into having fabricated something like the "Laust's vacuum block".

Had to jack up the car, remove front wheel and inner fender for the fuel line repair. I found a good instructional at Lindsey racing. Going to check with a local shop that make pressure fit hydraulic/oil lines and have them make a set instead of ordering and waiting.
Old 09-28-2019 | 04:13 PM
  #24  
CyCloNe!'s Avatar
CyCloNe!
Rennlist Member
 
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,124
Likes: 124
From: Chesapeake, VA 23322
Default

Looking good man, keep up the work. Glad to see another 944 coming back on the road.
Old 10-08-2019 | 05:32 PM
  #25  
teveo's Avatar
teveo
Thread Starter
Advanced
 
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 71
Likes: 13
From: Southern Norway
Default

Thanks, not yet there though. Car still does not start, well it cranks and fires but die immediately.

The old gas had to go, it may be good for the lawn mower but it had this smell and color to it and I decided to empty the tank.

Checked the inline tank screen/filter, very clean, new fuel filter, fuel lines fixed and at the same time I have been installing new seals and those micro filters in all injectors.

All injectors check in at approx 4.8 ohms with my cheapo multimeter, have no way of checking spray patterns but they open as they should.

Removed the resistors I had soldered in as I now use the green OEM injectors, had a vitesse stage 2 turbo kit that was going in but now I have OEM turbo and vitesse MAF.

DME relay checked, not sure if it is good but hotwiring 30-87-87b did not start the car either. Fuel pump running constantly with that mod though, when the DME relay is in the fuel pump only run when I am cranking and then it fire but dies.

There are a few connectors that are shot but they should not be a problem? The crank position sensor, idle speed valve and cycling valve.

I need to fix the connection to the idle speed valve, the cables are very dry and close to each other with no insulation, cycling valve seems fine with new blades crimped on. I "think" the crank position wires are correct but they were apart for 8 years (?) so maybe not?

"Ran when parked" so hopefully not a DME problem, injector circuit not working maybe but how to test?



This looks to be correct?

Worn harness at the idle valve

Vitesse MAF but the rest is OEM now.
Old 01-29-2020 | 04:33 PM
  #26  
teveo's Avatar
teveo
Thread Starter
Advanced
 
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 71
Likes: 13
From: Southern Norway
Default

Got a new DME relay but did not help, no start just fire and die.

I changed the steering column stalk (for the wipers, lights etc) to a 944 NA stalk a few years ago but should not be anything there right? Immobilizer or similar? Dont think I have run the car after I changed it but thats a real longshot.

Video cranking



Cant remember where this one go, changed the stalk but dont remember if it was installed there.


Have no idea, just below the steering colums


Crank sensor plug, not great but the tacho jump on cranking so it should be good?


The other connector maybe to the lambda
Old 01-30-2020 | 02:10 PM
  #27  
finally!'s Avatar
finally!
Three Wheelin'
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,405
Likes: 20
From: Dallas/Ft. Worth
Default

ROFL: "(and cheap to keep on the road)"
Old 01-30-2020 | 02:15 PM
  #28  
black944 turbo's Avatar
black944 turbo
Rennlist Member
 
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,261
Likes: 30
From: Charlotte
Default

I would check or replace those speed and ref sensor wiring. That is the best place to start.
Old 02-01-2020 | 04:35 AM
  #29  
teveo's Avatar
teveo
Thread Starter
Advanced
 
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 71
Likes: 13
From: Southern Norway
Default

Approaching the sensors.
I went on with the instructions from Clarks garage, first of. I measure the wiring to DME and they were continuous but very brittle. The reference sensor did not get a reading between 25-79 but 25-26 read close to 1K ohm, the speed sensor had the same measure on 8-27 but also +1M Ohms on 8-23.

http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/ign-02.htm

I pulled the speed sensor and half of the ref sensor, even if somewhat careful it just did not want to come out, ... time to make a plan.


ID'd the wiring with a fused test cable and a bulb.

Speed to the right, ref to the left.

Hmmm
Old 02-05-2020 | 05:39 PM
  #30  
teveo's Avatar
teveo
Thread Starter
Advanced
 
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 71
Likes: 13
From: Southern Norway
Default

Well, it was a tight fit but actually not that bad.

What is this sensor for? Middle to the left in the pic, it also in the bracket.





Quick Reply: Getting my 951 on the road again



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 11:06 AM.