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Greatly appreciate any input on how this is supposed to be connected. This plug shows continuity with pin 29 labelled AC Compressor (+) on the DME. I have nothing connected here; clearly, as is the case with the white Altitude connection across from it, this black plug should have an external wire leading some where. Where does the other end go?
There's some weird stuff under there; I found a wire coming from the bottom footwell (as if from the door eventually) that's just cut. Then these plugs (altitude and A/C) with no connection. Then that 12-hole outlet thing that I can't remember where it came off.
I'm looking for answers!
Or.. at least a good picture of what a *proper* footwell is supposed to look like
That, and my A/C stopped working last year... I'm pretty sure it's leaking, unsure exactly where, and I'm going to start some A/C threads soon....
You sure that one goes to 29? Looks like the country code connector that goes to 30 and is left open like that from the factory (for North American cars). That 12 pin black rectangular box with only 5 or 6 wires is also left open like that. If you ever want to install a knock counter, that connector has all the signals you'll need. Bosch must had had plans for the knock output on the KLR, since it wired it to that connector, but sadly they never did anything with it.
Highly doubt it. I was checking for 30 & 29 at the same time (white plug & black plug) so to be off, one of them would not be ‘on’; I would have been getting continuity on 31 or 28 which is KLR trigger or ground!
And I can’t see how both would register on the same pin.
I’m not sure I understand which pin you believe it to be?
I suppose it's possible I was poking 30 instead of 29 then. Multiple times oh Lordy. I'll have to check it out. Or not. Car is running fine! No AC, but it used to work, and I'm pretty sure it's a leak. I tried one of those diy cans.. filled the system.. it turned on for a couple of minutes.. then I tried it again and nothing. Must be a massive leak
I just have to work on the clutch pedal first. Started off fine then got progressively stiffer and catch point moved higher up. Better start a new thread on that....
I suppose it's possible I was poking 30 instead of 29 then. Multiple times oh Lordy. I'll have to check it out. Or not. Car is running fine! No AC, but it used to work, and I'm pretty sure it's a leak. I tried one of those diy cans.. filled the system.. it turned on for a couple of minutes.. then I tried it again and nothing. Must be a massive leak
I just have to work on the clutch pedal first. Started off fine then got progressively stiffer and catch point moved higher up. Better start a new thread on that....
A/C in Canada? Hmmm... I got lucky and discovered the two O-rings holding the hard pipes to the compressor were leaking. I changed those and it's been holding Freon ever since. Sure you bled the clutch hydraulics completely?
Today, I will investigate the pedal settings, but I gotta ask, how do you feel for a little bit of free play when you’ve got this spring keeping everything under tension??
To find an A/C leak get a UV light pen and those yellow safety glasses with them and a can of 134a with the dye in it. You don't need to empty the can into the system because you know you have a leak so just a little wil do. Then with the UV light pen and glasses on go around to all the A/C connections and fittings and check for a bright yellow dye that will leak out. It's pretty obvious when you see a leak. Also the front compressor seal is the most common spot for leaks as well as the fittings. And if you still have R12 in the system you want to get an A/C vacuum pump and pull a vacuum on the system for at leaks an hour. Your most likely going to need a new dryer and an A/C compressor. Once you get the system to hold a vacuum then it will be ready to charge. The dryer has a sight galas onthe top of it which will help in charging the system. The way I do it is look at that glass sight on the dryer and fill the system until there are no more bubbles in the sight glass. It will look like foam so to say until it's solid. It takes about three small cans of 134a if I remember correctly. Oh and don't forget to install 134a retrofit connectors onto your A/C lines. As far as your clutch pedal you may need to bleed it a bit more. Have the nose of the car down hill or the back of the car jacked up a bit because the clutch system is feed from the brake master cylinder resivoir and has a small crevice at the front driver side of the resivoir that needs to fill up with fluid which is the clutch resivoir area in the brake master cylinder resivoir. There is a small slit inside t he resivoir that needs to fill up for the clutch system. If you get air in there you have to start over.
04-20-2018, 10:10 AM
AC DME plug
