Rod Bearings DIY procedure
#1
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Does anyone have this article? Seems like the article written by Jay Cohen on members website was removed. If someone has a copy they would be willing to share, or if they know of another writeup on it.
TIA.
Raj
TIA.
Raj
#2
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Raj, it is really easy.
1) remove crossover
2) remove oil pan
3) remove lower rod bolt
4) remove the bearing, they "snap" into place
It is really that easy.
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1) remove crossover
2) remove oil pan
3) remove lower rod bolt
4) remove the bearing, they "snap" into place
It is really that easy.
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#3
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Matt, the engine is already on the engine stand with just the block, pistons and rods. The rest is all stripped out. I figured, there would never be a better time to do these even though I probably don't need them.
BTW, did you find the heatshields yet?
Thanks for your reply.
Raj
BTW, did you find the heatshields yet?
Thanks for your reply.
Raj
#4
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There is an okay write-up on Paragon's site. I think it's www.tech-session.com. If the engine is out it should be very simple.
#5
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Raj - I only have a few of them and I am looking for the rest.
If the engine is out is REALLY simple. You really dont need a write up. Just drop the pan and the rod ends are right there. You will have to rotate the crank by hand in order to get to all the bolts (1/4) then (2/3). I used a small screwdriver with a cover to "push" them out. When they come out it looks like the new one wont go back in, but it will. Use a little assembly lube (oil).
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If the engine is out is REALLY simple. You really dont need a write up. Just drop the pan and the rod ends are right there. You will have to rotate the crank by hand in order to get to all the bolts (1/4) then (2/3). I used a small screwdriver with a cover to "push" them out. When they come out it looks like the new one wont go back in, but it will. Use a little assembly lube (oil).
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#6
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Originally posted by Matt H
Raj, it is really easy.
1) remove crossover
2) remove oil pan
3) remove lower rod bolt
4) remove the bearing, they "snap" into place
It is really that easy.
Raj, it is really easy.
1) remove crossover
2) remove oil pan
3) remove lower rod bolt
4) remove the bearing, they "snap" into place
It is really that easy.
LOL, that step 1 is a ******
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Raj, you have it made with the engine already out
#7
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Thanks again JC/Matt.
Matt, I will take whatever you have. I am getting ready to send everything to get it nickel cadium plated soon. Let me know how you want to proceed. Just spoke to Dave Lindsey and he told me the same thing, lets see how it goes. It will be teh first time I will be working inside a blk.
Raj
Matt, I will take whatever you have. I am getting ready to send everything to get it nickel cadium plated soon. Let me know how you want to proceed. Just spoke to Dave Lindsey and he told me the same thing, lets see how it goes. It will be teh first time I will be working inside a blk.
Raj
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#8
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just a tip here Raj, make sure the number on the rod cap goes back to same side as the number on the rod itself. Otherwise your crank won't turn after assembly..
. Oh, and get some "Assembly Lube", not just oil.
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#9
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Ski, thanks for the input. Any particular brand "assembly lube" I should use. I will try to mark everything when I pull it out. Will check to see if its within spec, if so, slap it back in.
Thanks again.
Raj
Thanks again.
Raj
#10
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Hey guys-
I have new bearings to put in, and all I have to do is take the crossmember off to replace the bearings...
However, my dad doesn't think replacing them is a good idea - he thinks it would be too easy to screw something up and be without a car for a very long time. I've tried to convince him that it is a good idea to replace them since my car has 108kmi and the previous history is unknown. Is it easy to mess up to where I will be without a car for months?
Also, is it possible to replace the bearings without using an engine hoist or makeshift engine support?
Thanks
I have new bearings to put in, and all I have to do is take the crossmember off to replace the bearings...
However, my dad doesn't think replacing them is a good idea - he thinks it would be too easy to screw something up and be without a car for a very long time. I've tried to convince him that it is a good idea to replace them since my car has 108kmi and the previous history is unknown. Is it easy to mess up to where I will be without a car for months?
Also, is it possible to replace the bearings without using an engine hoist or makeshift engine support?
Thanks
#11
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It is really that simple. I think it took less than 15 minutes with the engine out (a little more room and not on your back). I dont know what you would jack on, since the pan has to be off the car. I say it is easy enough that it is a good idea (get oil pan gasket as well). The biggest PITA of the whole job is getting the oil pan back on, glad I had loads of extra hands.
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#12
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Cpt, why do you think you need to do them? Low oil pressure? Any symptoms? I know lots of folks hear about the dreaded #2 bearing, but it seems like a lot of rod bearings get changed out as preventative maintenance on street cars that probably don't need it. If you are doing some serious track time, then its another story.
I have seen first hand a set of 150k mi rod bearings that looked brand new when they were pulled out. On the other hand, it IS easier to replace rod bearings than it is to replace a crank/rebuild the engine after a failure.
My $0.02.
Raj, its a piece of cake to do this, just hit the local NAPA and ask them for assembly lube, and you'll be fine. By the way, make sure your torque wrench is calibrated.
Regards, ...Scott
I have seen first hand a set of 150k mi rod bearings that looked brand new when they were pulled out. On the other hand, it IS easier to replace rod bearings than it is to replace a crank/rebuild the engine after a failure.
My $0.02.
Raj, its a piece of cake to do this, just hit the local NAPA and ask them for assembly lube, and you'll be fine. By the way, make sure your torque wrench is calibrated.
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Regards, ...Scott
#13
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Scott, thanks for your advice as usual. Trust me on this, I no longer trust the click type torque wrenches and only use the needle type for this reason. No calibration to worry about
.
Regards.
Raj
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Regards.
Raj
#14
Nordschleife Master
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Any tips for getting the oil pan itself off?
It's stuck on the oil pickup and I cant seem to free it.
Engine is out of the car as well, btw.
It appears that I can see all 3 bolts that hold the oil pickup on so I'm gonna try to remove those and hopefully let the oilpan be free.
It's stuck on the oil pickup and I cant seem to free it.
Engine is out of the car as well, btw.
It appears that I can see all 3 bolts that hold the oil pickup on so I'm gonna try to remove those and hopefully let the oilpan be free.
#15
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If you have all the bolts out, I would take a couple of shots at it with a rubber mallet. It should pop right off. Gonzo strength is NOT recommended, tho.
Regards,
Regards,