Tial installation picture
#1
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I know there has been a few thread discussing tial installation. I thought I would post a picture of mine to give people interested a look at how it bolts up using the adapter plates. The WG installs so that the diahram body is in the direction of the 'supply' from the x/over making the wg sit very close to the torque tube.
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Yes, drill out the threads on one of the flanges so you can bolt up the adapter flange through the holes. Can't remember which flanges but once you get it where you can visualize how it goes on, its pretty easy to identify.
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From what I recall seeing on few cars, the top of the Tial WG should be facing the Firewall, not upward.. Is the WG in the above picture installed correctly?
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The tial are opposite to stock in that the supply from the crossover acts on the underside of the valve and not on the back of the mushroom. The tial stroke upwards and have a 'reverse' cut seat, the stock stroke downwards off seat like a normal engine valve. Mine is installed to refelct this configuration with the crossover supply connected to right side. I am 100% mine is installed right as I checked and double checked. It works perfectly.
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Originally posted by Tomas L
http://www.tialsport.com/WGCONTROL.JPG
http://www.tialsport.com/WGCONTROL.JPG
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B951s. You are correct. The Tial wastegate must be installed so that the exhaust gases (from the cross-over) are actually pushing against the valve on the Tial (opposite of the factory unit). The illustration or instructions that come with the Tial explain this clearly.
The top port, goes directly to your boost controller and the other side port goes to a "T" connector which merges with the boost signal from the banjo bolt (intercooler). So basically your banjo (boost) line goes to a "T", where it splits to go to the Tial side port and to the Boost controller inlet.
Concerning the drilling of the threads on the Tial, that is necessary to properly toque the bolts.
The top port, goes directly to your boost controller and the other side port goes to a "T" connector which merges with the boost signal from the banjo bolt (intercooler). So basically your banjo (boost) line goes to a "T", where it splits to go to the Tial side port and to the Boost controller inlet.
Concerning the drilling of the threads on the Tial, that is necessary to properly toque the bolts.
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Originally posted by B951S
The tial are opposite to stock in that the supply from the crossover acts on the underside of the valve and not on the back of the mushroom. The tial stroke upwards and have a 'reverse' cut seat, the stock stroke downwards off seat like a normal engine valve. Mine is installed to refelct this configuration with the crossover supply connected to right side. I am 100% mine is installed right as I checked and double checked. It works perfectly.
The tial are opposite to stock in that the supply from the crossover acts on the underside of the valve and not on the back of the mushroom. The tial stroke upwards and have a 'reverse' cut seat, the stock stroke downwards off seat like a normal engine valve. Mine is installed to refelct this configuration with the crossover supply connected to right side. I am 100% mine is installed right as I checked and double checked. It works perfectly.
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Hey My Swiss,
I'm using a Reliableboost. What I did was to connect
outlet of banjo bold onto the inlet of the boost controller
with the outlet of the Reliaboost connected straight to
the sideport of the wastegate leaving the top to vent
into the atmosphere. It is working but I'm notsure if
this is the correct way when using a Reliaboost.
Any takers ???
I'm using a Reliableboost. What I did was to connect
outlet of banjo bold onto the inlet of the boost controller
with the outlet of the Reliaboost connected straight to
the sideport of the wastegate leaving the top to vent
into the atmosphere. It is working but I'm notsure if
this is the correct way when using a Reliaboost.
Any takers ???
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Your Tial top port is basically venting to atmosphere and that can work with the Reliaboost.
The reliaboost, is basically a bleeder valve that bleeds a certain amount of air (to atmosphere) from the banjo line. Which mean there is less or more air getting to the wastegate diaphragm. So the more you bleed,the more boost you will hold. the only down side(from my experience) to using such a device, is that your boost will come on slower the with a Profec B, for example.
When i was using a ball and spring boost controller,I would reach full boost at around 3800rpm (much to hi). When I put the Profec B in ,I got full boost at 3100rpm,with my T04E. This was enough to convince me that an ebc,is the way to go.
The reliaboost, is basically a bleeder valve that bleeds a certain amount of air (to atmosphere) from the banjo line. Which mean there is less or more air getting to the wastegate diaphragm. So the more you bleed,the more boost you will hold. the only down side(from my experience) to using such a device, is that your boost will come on slower the with a Profec B, for example.
When i was using a ball and spring boost controller,I would reach full boost at around 3800rpm (much to hi). When I put the Profec B in ,I got full boost at 3100rpm,with my T04E. This was enough to convince me that an ebc,is the way to go.