Matt H

I am trying to put this car back together (of course my hoist just crapped out, luckily I have the engine suspended!) The new turbo looks like the center section (water, oil cooling part) it about 180 deg. off. Any suggestions? Also, do I need to use a gasket? The Garrett has a square opening while the KKK is round?
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Ski

The section that is more square is the bottom section,,the drain for the oil. Now, since you know the square section is the botom, the bolts on the back of each housing will loosen, then rotate each to get it close. As far as the bottom o-ring or gasket, I suggest this. Put the new oring in the base, put something on it like chalk, then set your turbo down in the correct position and get an imprint. Then decide if you need to just use the o-ring or make a gasket.

One thing to consider on your water pipe,,before you try to bend it or break it(if you have to do this) is to get brass close nipple(all thread), then get a coupling pc,,your banjo bolt will screw into that, as the BSP and NPT can hold on that small of thread. OZ951 showed this to jwl and we did it on his Vitesse stage II and it worked great. Good luck.

Matt H

I am going to need more than luck! Thanks, I will see how that works out. First thing is to get the studs out of the old turbo.
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Ski

Matt get your K26 and set it down on the bench. Get your new Garrett, and with the square section down, loosen the back bolts on the hot and cold sides. Rotate one at a time until each is similar to the K26. Snug em up, no sense to tighten them up at this point.
Matt, maybe these will help,,,made em big.

Matt H

Very helpful, thanks. I did not take the time to read that whole thread, is that a new motor? How did you get the heat shield for the master cyl off? Are you leaving it that way?
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mark944turbo

Wow, that engine compartment is nice. Reminds me of perry951's...

Matt H

Which bolts do I loosen??
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Matt H

shows the relation from one to the other.
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David Floyd

All of the bolts around the inner circle on both compressor and turbine housing and each will spin around

David Floyd

IF thats a TO4E you may have to file down the bottom bolt head on the compressor housing to clear the turbo mount.

The brass adapters that Ski mention will allow easy water pipe mounting

Ski

Matt,,on the back side of the intake housing, you have,,,what, 6/7 bolts? Loosen these until they are hand tight. Rotate that housing around until the air outlet is pointing at say 45° in relation to the square "drain" outlet for the turbo. Your oil inlet should be on top at this point and both water(inlet and outlet) should be in the correct position.

Matt the engine is the original engine, 100k on it. It was cleaned, as was the engine compartment to as new. The cylinder walls were perfect so; new piston rings, rod bearings, complete bottom gaskets, rear main seal, all front seals, oil cooler gaskets - orings, new oil pump gear,,,well,, an in the car complete overhaul except for main bearings(hoses, radiator, A/C brakes, shocks - Koni, sway bars-968 M030,wheel/tires, fuel pump, had been done already). Jim and I friends. I had a spare engine for a project. I gave him a head, flywheel, complete exhaust system, intake manifold. The head was reworked by Memphis Motorwerks, flywheel was lightened, and the exhaust/intake were sent to Jet Hot. So all of those parts were already ready for his overhaul.

Here is a BIG pic of the engine complete,,the hard pipes needed cleaning but it started smooth first try!

edit: Matt I just saw your pictures,,,I had the computer on the thread. You are 180° on your oil sides. The square goes down, the round opening goes on top. I mentioned this to John at Vitesse,,that is the same way we got Jims turbo. Your hot and cold are in the "close to right position,,rotate everything again so that the square port(drain is down) and your hot and cold side are like your K26 and your almost there. David said it..go ahead and when you get it close to indexed, remove that bottom bolt, grind off half the head, reinstall it. Also read in the "jwl thread" about the bottom bolts that hold the spring for the throttle body,,may want to get a flush mount screw, as you may have to grind on the bolt housing of the turbo under the throttle body - no big deal.

David Floyd

I bought new studs from Paragon, it looked like the old studs would snap off, so if you have time, might want to go new

Matt H

I do have the time and that is exactly what I plan to do. See no reason to skimp on 3 dollars worth of parts.
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