What have you done to your 944 S2 Cabriolet?
05-21-2019, 02:50 PM
#1006
I found it in the classified section in Panorama Magazine. PO listed $6500 and he dropped to $5000. If it wasnt close to me I would not have considered. Saw it in the garage and luv at first sight!
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custic (07-03-2019)
05-21-2019, 06:49 PM
#1009
Hey 1933beer! We exchanged PM's over a year ago when I was redoing my convertible top. I finally figure it out. I am in Iowa City. I found the second one outside Springfield, Missouri. last summer. Off Craigslist of all places. Nothing like showing up to a Craigslist appointment with a pocketful of cash...! But it worked out well. Nice guy down there had gotten it through a family connection and did not want to fuss with the upkeep, so I bought it off him and resold to a business colleague of mine from Lithuania, where it was exported to. We believe it is the only 'cab in the Baltics.
05-22-2019, 07:07 PM
#1010
I found a place to get door weatherstripping/seals. They are sold by the foot for just under $4/foot by a company called MMP. Contact Jim Martin there at jimm@metrommp.com and tell him you want 'LP-911" stripping. He will get you what you need. I bought 16 feet, and had a couple feet left over. Road noise and drafts have been radically reduced. To get the old seal out you have to lever it up with a butter knife to get it started and then carefully pull it away and use a flat bade screwdriver to slide into the trough to keep it pulling out even. Carefully cut and hide it under the rubber cap eat each end and enjoy the much-reduced noise!
05-22-2019, 09:35 PM
#1011
Instructor
I forgot about the too help. I am not on the forum much anymore. I have been working on other projects with my son. Fyi I got your request but cant seem to accept on the phone. To bad we on opposite ends of the state it is always nice to get cabs together.
05-23-2019, 02:49 PM
#1012
Rennlist Member
I found a place to get door weatherstripping/seals. They are sold by the foot for just under $4/foot by a company called MMP. Contact Jim Martin there at jimm@metrommp.com and tell him you want 'LP-911" stripping. He will get you what you need. I bought 16 feet, and had a couple feet left over. Road noise and drafts have been radically reduced. To get the old seal out you have to lever it up with a butter knife to get it started and then carefully pull it away and use a flat bade screwdriver to slide into the trough to keep it pulling out even. Carefully cut and hide it under the rubber cap eat each end and enjoy the much-reduced noise!
05-24-2019, 03:02 PM
#1013
These are the weatherstripping seals that start at the upper rear of the door (just above the lock latch), travel down the rear of the door, along the bottom, and back up again on the front of the door. Basically a big "U" shape. They keep wind, moisture, and road noise out from the door. Over time the originals collapse and no longer seal the door to the car body. Or are torn, or missing.
05-24-2019, 06:25 PM
#1015
Yeah- if you are missing the OEM moldings that the window seats into on the A-pillar or the convertible top frame, you are pretty much screwed. They are sold, but at prices that will make you howl. And I mean ding-batty crazy prices. They do come up for sale occasionally on eBay, so keep your eyes peeled. Or ask around on this forum.
Having said that, if your seals don't fit very well, there are a couple of things to do. The angle and "cant" of the window are adjustable in this car. If your windows, when you shut the door, appear to "bounce", "bend", or "flex" outward from the seals at the top of the window, you need to adjust the "cant" of the window. There are two small spacer wheels that are at the base of each window track. Spinning them angles the window inward or outward.You will need to remove the door card to see these, but you will understand what I mean when you see them. When the window is fully up, shutting the door should seat the edge of the window into the seal but not "bend" or force the window outward. This misalignment is not very common, but it still happens.
The more common misalignment is when the rear edge of the window does not reach the seal of the convertible top "C"pillar and leaves a gap for rain and wind. This is due to two possible things. The "rake" of the window is also adjustable, such that the window, as it rolls up, slides further back. The screws that hold the window tracks can be slid further back (or forward if you have too much window striking the seal). Make sure if you adjust the window angle screws you keep the front and rear tracks in parallel. Otherwise the window will bind if they become too narrow, or be able to move and wiggle fore and aft if it is too loose. If your window has gotten out of alignment you should be able to see the marks where the original factory setting were. Resetting to those should help a lot!
Finally, if there is still a gap, the seals can be moved away from the frame and snugged up close to the window with spacers. Most of you will have spacers already, or they may have fallen out. Either way, if you do, you will need to insert a black foam strip, cut to be unobtrusive, between the seal and the convertible frame. If you need some closed cell foam rubber, I have some left over that cut into strips does the job very nicely! PM me and I will mail you some. I got it free, so I have to pass along the karma.
I hope this helps!
Having said that, if your seals don't fit very well, there are a couple of things to do. The angle and "cant" of the window are adjustable in this car. If your windows, when you shut the door, appear to "bounce", "bend", or "flex" outward from the seals at the top of the window, you need to adjust the "cant" of the window. There are two small spacer wheels that are at the base of each window track. Spinning them angles the window inward or outward.You will need to remove the door card to see these, but you will understand what I mean when you see them. When the window is fully up, shutting the door should seat the edge of the window into the seal but not "bend" or force the window outward. This misalignment is not very common, but it still happens.
The more common misalignment is when the rear edge of the window does not reach the seal of the convertible top "C"pillar and leaves a gap for rain and wind. This is due to two possible things. The "rake" of the window is also adjustable, such that the window, as it rolls up, slides further back. The screws that hold the window tracks can be slid further back (or forward if you have too much window striking the seal). Make sure if you adjust the window angle screws you keep the front and rear tracks in parallel. Otherwise the window will bind if they become too narrow, or be able to move and wiggle fore and aft if it is too loose. If your window has gotten out of alignment you should be able to see the marks where the original factory setting were. Resetting to those should help a lot!
Finally, if there is still a gap, the seals can be moved away from the frame and snugged up close to the window with spacers. Most of you will have spacers already, or they may have fallen out. Either way, if you do, you will need to insert a black foam strip, cut to be unobtrusive, between the seal and the convertible frame. If you need some closed cell foam rubber, I have some left over that cut into strips does the job very nicely! PM me and I will mail you some. I got it free, so I have to pass along the karma.
I hope this helps!
06-30-2019, 08:32 AM
#1017
Got a rock chip in April and had Safelite repair it. When the temperature changed it cracked so finally had it replaced with new OEM windshield. There was good news and bad news. The good news was insurance covered the OEM glass and new cowl cover. And there was an old car smell that is now gone so it may have been from the old rubber/gasket/sealant off gassing.
The bad news, there was a surface rust spot under the glass in the passenger lower corner. They cleaned it and put on rust preventer. Appears it's from the antenna cover and screws. Anyone else have seen or heard of this issue?
With the new glass, the difference is amazing!! After 30 years of road rash the old glass took a beating. Now clear and helps to make the old girl stunning again.
Also been replacing little parts that are worn...new clutch and brake pedal pads, the rubber grommet around the trunk lock cylinder, passenger mirror seal.....
The bad news, there was a surface rust spot under the glass in the passenger lower corner. They cleaned it and put on rust preventer. Appears it's from the antenna cover and screws. Anyone else have seen or heard of this issue?
With the new glass, the difference is amazing!! After 30 years of road rash the old glass took a beating. Now clear and helps to make the old girl stunning again.
Also been replacing little parts that are worn...new clutch and brake pedal pads, the rubber grommet around the trunk lock cylinder, passenger mirror seal.....
06-30-2019, 08:52 AM
#1018
Where did you get new glass for your Cabrio?!?
I have been trying to find new glass for some while now and strike out.
I recentky looked under that little cover, no rust. But what is awkward on my car is the amount of warping of the a-pillar trim prieces and the tr piece actors the top (that holds the courtesy light). I assume it was the heat.
I have been trying to find new glass for some while now and strike out.
I recentky looked under that little cover, no rust. But what is awkward on my car is the amount of warping of the a-pillar trim prieces and the tr piece actors the top (that holds the courtesy light). I assume it was the heat.
06-30-2019, 10:01 AM
#1019
Where did you get new glass for your Cabrio?!?
I have been trying to find new glass for some while now and strike out.
I recentky looked under that little cover, no rust. But what is awkward on my car is the amount of warping of the a-pillar trim prieces and the tr piece actors the top (that holds the courtesy light). I assume it was the heat.
I have been trying to find new glass for some while now and strike out.
I recentky looked under that little cover, no rust. But what is awkward on my car is the amount of warping of the a-pillar trim prieces and the tr piece actors the top (that holds the courtesy light). I assume it was the heat.
Safelite. Here is a pic to compare to the original glass. On the invoice it is listed as part FW00651 GTYP . Now I dont think its the OEM glass as I was told. Looking for the invoice from the original order.
06-30-2019, 10:11 AM
#1020
Where did you get new glass for your Cabrio?!?
I have been trying to find new glass for some while now and strike out.
I recentky looked under that little cover, no rust. But what is awkward on my car is the amount of warping of the a-pillar trim prieces and the tr piece actors the top (that holds the courtesy light). I assume it was the heat.
I have been trying to find new glass for some while now and strike out.
I recentky looked under that little cover, no rust. But what is awkward on my car is the amount of warping of the a-pillar trim prieces and the tr piece actors the top (that holds the courtesy light). I assume it was the heat.
And I sent Safe lite this link to Auto Atlanta which has the windshield listed at $782,http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=805-00