Ok All. After a long week of back to back projects at work i told my son we are setting aside some decent time this weekend to get back on his project 944.

I have been working on the front headlights to get the motor cleaned up and both headlights opening and closing. Over the past weekend i got the headlights cycling on and off but only the left headlight woukd go on. The used replacement headlight switch i bought many months ago appeared to ve working smoothly then all of the sudden whileci was testing tge headlights with the switch i clicked it on and went to check the wiring on the passenger side when i heard a crack sound and saw the heaflight motor wire start ti get hot and smoke.

I immediately went to the headlight switch and ignition switch to tyrn tgem off and coukd see the headlight switch was stuck in position between tge fully on and off clicks and woukd not move.

I used a screwdriver to uninstall the switch and went onlibe to find a replacement. I decided to buy another working used switch from a seller i have dobe business with on this car and it arrived today. I thought it woukd be a quick install and test on the hesdlights. I also noticed a thin brown wire was hanging loose offvtge headlighf switch block.

I thought it was suppossd to go on one of the thin metal tabs on the switch so i hooked it up and it started to smoke, melting at least 3 inches of the wire coating before i could remove the switch. After careful inspection of that briwn wire turns out it was power fir the light bulb in the switch. I repaired the melted wire jacket and plugged it into its correct location.

I then re- plugged in the "new" switch i just received today and it melted several wires without me even clicking the switch on. See the attached photos:








I give up on used switches and just bought a brand new headlight switch for peace of mind. I still have to repair the melted wire jackets on several wires but i caught the fire quick enough that i only have to replace about 4 inches of the wire covering.

it got me thinking though, i have not run into any wiring issues until now and this one could have melted the entire harness into the dash. Have any members installed a fuseable link or inline fuse to keep this from burning the car to the ground? If i wasnt right there and able to disconnect the swotch in time it would have a total disaster.

Any advise or recommendations with diy links on this would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Ted V.

 

While doing this type of work on the car, either leave the battery connections loose or us a battery on the floor with jumper cables to the car cables. You need to be able to disconnect the battery quickly rather than trying to get the headlight switch or ignition turned off.

I doubt you have had this bad a luck with used switches and you have a short somewhere. If you didn't before, you may now with all the wire melting.

Check loose wires with a meter to see if they're power or ground before reconnecting them where you think they might go.

 

Thank you Petza914 for your advise and continued guidance.

I did have the battery terminals loose but had the flat screwdriver in the footwell and was able to jnhook the connector probably as quivkly if i had went to remove the negative terminal.

It was the switch that caused the short because it was stuck in between the on and off positions and was probably making contsct with the wrong wires inside the switch terminal.

Now i have to separate and repair these sections. My brand new switch should be here next week.

Ill keep updating this weekend.

Ted V.

 

Hi All.

So i repaired the damaged headlight harness wire jackets this morning, turned the key and now my temp gauge and fuel gauge read all the way to the right. This might be due to the fact i dont have a headlight switch connected but the fuel gauge used to read correctly as well as the temp gauge.

After reading several articles and online posts about no power to the fuel pump i started to troubleshoot that issue. First i removed the DME relay and opened it up. I also sprayed contact cleaner into the fusebox connectors for the relay. What i found inside the relay was two relays with two points each (4 total). One set was opening and closing when moved with a small tool but the other set had one side of the points stuck. I got it loose and lightly sanded the points with 800 sandpaper.

Reinstalled the relay but it still would not turn on the fuel pump. I jumpered the #2 aux fuse to #3 so i could get 12 volts to the fuel pimp and could here it turn on. Hit the key and cranked the engine and ot actually started and ran.

I shut the engine off because i do not have any oil pressure reading on the gauge and the top end of the engine was tapping pretty loud. I can image the lifters need to pump up but until I can get an oil pressure reading im hesitant about letting the engine run not knowing if we are getting oil circulating thru the engine.

I am ordering a replacement oil sending unit but in the meantime is there another engine port i can connect a pressure gauge to confirm ool pressure? Can i remove something on the cam cover and see of oil is making ot to the top of the engine?

So far making some progress but dont want to damage the engine in the process.

Thanks!!

Ted V.

 

UPDATE

Hi All.

It was a productive weekend on the project car. My son continued wet sanding a buffing the original single stage paint:




He's really getting good with handling the buffer and getting some pretty deep defects corrected. He'll be able to keep his car looking nice for years to come.

We started and ran the car several times to get the oil flowing into the lifters and to make sure we were getting oil pressure since the gauge does not register. While doing this about the 6th time when started it up it tapped for about 20 seconds and then you could hear the top end start to quiet which means we are getting oil flow to the cam and lifters. Also, while it was idling suddenly the oil gauge started to show around 5 bars. I have a new oil sending unit on the way but ill keep watching this gauge as we troubleshoot the electrical and the sending unit might still be good.

We put the driver door back together and lubed up the lock and window assemblies. Put the door panel on and it started to look like a car again. The section around the speaker has shrunk slightly leaving a 1/8" gap on the left side so ill adust the screw holes to move it over.

As promised here are some photos of the paint progress around the entire car. Still have to finish the front bumper and roof section paint and rear wet sand and buff:










Rocker repair and touch up will be last since there os some minor rust repair and welding required to straighten up years or incorrect jacking.

We are still troubleshooting no power to the fuel pump with just the key and not jumpering power from the adjacent fuse no. 3. Im not going to test anything with the clutch and transmission until its runming completely under its own power.

Will continue to post updates as we go.

Next up:

1. Finish troubleshooting headlight assembly.
2. Troubleshoot turn signals (hazards are finally working after replacing relay)
3. Test for brake lights
4. Remove racing rsdiator and install correct unit with overflow port
5. Install replacement horns
6. Install windshield washer tank and run lines
7. Refinish wiper arms and install new blades
8. Source the missing wiper motor assembly
9. Troubleshoot sunroof assembly
10. Begin dash removal

No problem right?

Ted V.

 

Looking good!

If you haven't done so already, I'd suggest removing the vents in the rear door jambs and shining a light in to assess if there is any inner corrosion on the rockers. You will be able to see the rear end of the rockers directly. You can pick up an inexpensive borescope to assess the forward areas of the rocker void. Hopefully they are good, but if not, at least you can start to plan for the rust repair in those areas, which will be a little more involved than for the front fender.

 

Hi there. Already checked these areas put and they are surprisingly spotless. The corrosion i found as along the outer rocker pinchwelds where the car has been jacked up using those thin sections and they were split open allowing moisture inthere.

My plan Is to apply Miracle Paint rust convertor as deep into the backs of the outer rockers reinforced with fibre mesh to keep the panels from flexing and moving. Then heat, hammer and dolly the edges to realign everything and then weld sections to close up those gaps. Once its undercoated it wont be noticeable and factory strong again.

We also have to repair and strengthen the lower fender brackets in the same manner.

Ill keep posting as we go.

Ted V.

 

Hi All.

Hope your July 4th was memorable but safe. Ive read a lot of firework display mishaps havw occurred across the nation so hopefully all of you did not experience any of this first hand. Which brings me back to my headlight switch and harness issues.

So after unplugging my replacement (now 3rd used headlight switch) due to wires overheating I zeroed in on the main power source wire to the switch, solid red 12 to 14 guage wire. Literally to touch as i was unplughing the hesdlight switch. I carefully pulled back the harness loom wrapping under the dash up to where it ends in a "Y" and there is evidence of slightly melted wiring up to that location.

Since we will be removing the entire dash soon to repair and refinish the cracked dssh pad i was planning on going thru the ENTIRE dash harness and every connector looking for loose, missing or incorrect connections along with cleaning all fuse connectors and confirming proper size fuses have been installed.

Im hopefully i can trace any melted wires back far enough, cut them out and resolder new wires in place. Besides the main red wire to the headlight switch there is also what appears to be one red and green jacket wore slightly melted on the headlight switch harness ( approx 3 inches of melted jacket close to the switch) that i repaired.

I also cut back the headlight motor harness rubber covering on the four wires to confirm nothing internal was melted or chaffed. There is evidence one of those wires got hot but no apparent short in the 4 inches of that harness i peeled the covering back. I dont know the age or condition of the headlight motor relay so i will source a replacement so ill have it on hand just in case.

Once i get the dash put and can literally trace wire by wire without trying contort my body under the dash this should be easier to tackle. Im also considering taking the car to my local and trustworthy foreign car repair shop while tje entire dash harness is exposed and let them do a full troubleshooting of all my other electrical issues:

No turn signals
No power to RH headlight
Pegged temp reading
Pegged fuel level reading
No dash lights for alternator, oil or brake on farthest left dash gauge.
No function on sunroof
No brake lights
No reverse lights

i will be removing and cleaning up the three round gauges and testing what i can based on my limited elevtrical knowledge. Since ive put power to the car and run it there has been no lights on the farthest left dash gauge even after I removed the round gauge plug, sprayed contact cleaner on the pins and reattached it. Im only getting power to temp and fuel gauges but they are just pegged fully to the right.

Im not even getting a flashing turn signal on the dash when the hazards (they work) are activated and flashing

At this point my son and i will be swapping out the radiator and confirming the thermostat is opening and closing correctly, cleaning the air intake sensor, reinstalling the wiper washer tank assembly and replacing the horns before moving onto the dash removal.

Ill continue to post updates bit any suggestions on the headlight assembly would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Ted V.

 

I just read your entire thread and I am very impressed with the progress you guys have made! Amazing job!

The reason I am especially interested is that my son and I just yesterday purchased a 1986 944 that we are going to work on together. He is 16 and has his own late model car, but he realized when were doing some mods to his car that he would really like to work on more of a "project." I am always down for a project, and doing it with him will be really fun. I have owned several Porsche's, but this is my first 944. Our car is a little less "project" than yours, but is experiencing several issues due to age, previous owners, and my general lack of experience with them.

I think I will start my own "project" thread, as you have done, and hope to get help along the way like you have. I would be interested in your procedure for paint correction as well. The young man is doing a great job! Where are you located?

Here is our new project car and I can assure you, like many of the photos on dating sites, she looks NO WHERE near as good in real life! Enjoy your project!

 

I just read your post and other project car thread. We are located in NE Illinois. Depending on wherher you are dealing with single stage (base coat only) or two stage (base and clear coat) and more importantly how much paint is on each panel will dictate how ypu should approach any paint correction. Or the need for a spot paint.

We got lucky on several panels that were original or repainted with base coat only and we were able to wet sand and buff them back to a decent shine.

Right now we have the front bumper, roof surround and both lower rockers that need paint, clearcoat and cut and buff.

I can have my son simply treat the rust on the lower rockers, bondo and shoot them with textured paint but im hoping he will be wolling to weld some support sections along each outer rocker to beef them up a little.

Im preparing to remove the racing rsdiator the PO installed and confirm whether they left the thernostat in or removed it.

Then we have to reinstall the wiper washer tank and hook up the lines, install replacement horns and clean the air intake sensor that i think is gunked up and causing the idle to swing a bit.

Then it's either dive into rust repair or tear the entire dashboard out and start checking for burnt or loose wires. They both are pretty involved projecfs but need to be done asap.

Ill post more as we go. I did jump the gun a bit and engaged the clutch to get the car in reverse and into the garage. At least its not stuck. Will need to measure the clutch thickness soon.

Ted V.

 

** UPDATE **

Hi All.

It's been a couple of weeks since I posted anything, but lots of progress to report. My son finished wet sanding and buffing the rear section of the car along with the rear taillights. No dents there so only minor touch up close to the taillights and some minor rust repair and welding on the rear hatch latch openings.

We removed the original rear bumper section and installed the replacement I sourced along with nicer rear quarter/bumper fillers. I also sourced new decals for the rear and am looking for a decent used silver "944" emblem just below the hatch opening on the right. I have not attempted to reinstall the rear hatch release levers but have soaked them in PB Blaster since we got the car. They are pretty stuck so I might need to locate replacements to get the hatch opening and closing correctly. It also has the power hatch release that I have not even tried but at this point if I can get the hatch closing, locking and releasing properly using the key my son can work on the power assist if he truly needs that functioning.

We also removed the racing radiator and installed one that has the overflow port for the hose. I cleaned up the fan temp sending unit and when I started the car and it heated up the fan actually comes on now. The other fan is for the AC and even though the AC system is not complete or functioning, when you turn on the AC **** the second fan actually functions as well. Once again, if my son wishes to source the missing AC parts and get that system working again, he can do than on his own dime. My commitment to this project is to get it running and driving and all basic electrical functions working again.

It's been so hot for several days and then pouring rain several days with 100% humidity so I have not been able to complete the paint and clearcoat I had planned on. Hopefully this weekend I can get those sections finished so we can start on the rockers and lower fender supports. Not looking to make them perfect, just killing the rust and welding in supports before light body work,

The other involved repair will be the dashboard, wiring and gauges. I already had him read Clarks on complete dash removal and there are three great videos on Youtube with detailed instructions on where the mounting bolts/screws are located and things to look out for so we don't cause more damage during trim removal. I am hopeful that once we get the dash out we can start inspecting, cleaning and repairing some electrical to hopefully get several key items functioning again. The biggest issue will be the headlight harness that I don't know how far into the wrapped harness I have to go to replace some damaged and melted wires. I thought about just purchasing a used harness and splicing the sections for the headlight motor and switch and may end up going that route if the damage describe earlier in this thread is worse than expected. I'll post more on that once we tackle that repair.

I did try the clutch and transmission to get the car into the garage when neither of my sons could be found to help. It engaged without any grinding, odd sounds or odd vibrations so I went forward to the street and backward to the garage about a dozen times to knock off any major corrosion from the clutch plate and flywheel. The shifter is really sloppy so I plan on starting at the shift handle bushing and moving back to the shift levers to see what parts are extremely worn out and need replacing. Has anyone on here installed a short shifter assembly on their car? If we have to start replacing parts it might be better to just go that route since I imagine my son is expecting this thing to shift like a Maclaren F1 car.

I am also eager to remove the seats and carpeting to do a thorough clean and inspection of the floorboards in case I missed some corrosion or something that requires welding. Plus it is a great opportunity to run new speaker wires and have my son see what his car looks like completely naked with no interior.

I'll post more updates as we continue on this journey.

Ted V.

 

*** UPDATE ***

Hi All.

Im pleased to type that after too many delays due to weather, work and other emergencies we finished painting the weathered and neglected panels we cpuld no save thru wet sanding and buffng. We sprayed the roof and tgen clearcoated the hood nose panel, front bumper and finally the outer roof section. Still need to wet sand and buff those three to blend them into the adjacent panels. Here is what to used to keep the paint budget super tight:


I believe i bought 10 cans of Duplicolor Universal Black for everything so far.

Three cans of this excellent twom component catalyst clear. Can recommend this product enough.

Old car covers on the front and rear saved a ton of time masking and taping.

I used the old faded sunroof panel so i didnt have to spend yime taping.








Here are some pictures after we unmasked everything:









Next up. Dash removal and electrical troubleshooting.....

 

That turned out great for a rattle-can job (or even for a regular job). You guys are killing it!

 

Wow I'm impressed!! It looks really great! Now I'm thinking that I should try the same.

 

Hi All:

Took the family to our friend's lake house last weekend so no work was done on my son's car. The good news is during some quiet down time I had a chance to research the headlight issues I've been having and it turns out others have been dealing with the same or similar related melt down issues:

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-924-944-968-technical-forum/574922-upgrade-headlight-wiring-harness.html

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/pors...p-upgrade.html

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-924-944-968-technical-forum/324871-h4-headlight-wiring-harness.html


Since the main power to the headlight runs right thru this headlight switch, there are a couple of 944 enthusiasts who have taken wiring to another level and created homemade headlight harness sections that run power to the lights directly from the alternator with protection thru separate relays and fuses. I will dive into this foray of electrical repair even though working with wires is my least favorite pasttimes.

I will post some more information and photos once I dive in and tackle this upgrade. It seems pretty straightforward but once again, these threads are created by members who are comfortable with circuits, wiring and the sort. Not, novices like myself.

I definitely don't want my son's car to suffer future catastrophic meltdowns and dash fires if I can spent a little time to update the electrical system. I am hopeful that a little trial and error will reveal a solution to a ticking timebomb in his car and a ton of early 944s out there.

I'll post more once I get back to wrenching this week and weekend.

Ted V.