So I just bought this 944 and immediately had the clutch replaced and not even a month later the clutch pedal is pulling to the floor intermittently. I’m sure it’s the brake cylinders but I’m also having issues with overall power. All vacuum lines are tight,I feel like it’s misfiring but I checked plugs and wires/ distributor cap and they have all recently been changed. Air filter looks like **** and there’s a slapping noise coming from the top of the timing belt cover, just below the distributor. I’m guessing it’s prob time to go ahead and change those belts. The car says 66k miles but I think it’s prob rolled over once and I don’t see any signs that they have been done prior to purchasing it. Any suggestions on that slapping noise? It sounds like something has broke off or come loose inside the cover. I can feel it tapping the plastic cover from the outside but the car runs ok, no r ****ty, not good, just ok. It cranks up first turn most of the time and idles just fine but with noises from other places. I’m here for the long haul so any suggestions are appreciated. 🤙

 

Vacuum lines are ****. Lines are actually pretty solid, it’s more then 3 way pieces that are split in the mid section so those will need to be replaced. Air filter has a decent bit of black crud in it so that’s gotta go. Master and slave cylinder look brand new so now I’m kinda stuck. Brake booster looks original so is there any way I can check to see if it’s functioning? Please help the

 

You have, a lot, of things going on here. Is this your only [daily] driver?

1. slapping noise...do not start/run/drive car! pull front belt cover...take a look around. most likely a loose balance belt...but if it fails, it can take out the timing belt
2. had the clutch replaced...who did this and what, exactly, was removed/replaced?
3. clutch pedal...could be a) old hydraulic fluid [flush brakes and clutch as both systems draw from same reservoir], b) worn clutch master cylinder, c) worn clutch slave cylinder
4. change all filters...air, fuel, oil
5. crumbling vacuum lines...remove intake manifold, replace all hoses, and check the myriad of plastic 2mm vac lines for cracking
6. crack beer
7. report back

 

thanks for the reply!
1- it sounds like it’s coming from the head cover plate above the distributor. It’s intermittent but still I’m not taking any chances
2- a friend of mine who specializes in classic vw/Audi/Porsche/ghia. I’m still kinda skeptic as why the new clutch is giving me issues after only 2 months
3- no leaks from brake system, (is there a way I can bleed the system by myself?)
4- air filter has black crud building up which I think is from the fuel coming in through the intake from the fuel dampener failing (replaced vaccum lines and y joints and found the dampener needs to be replaced

I just went through a nasty break up and my ex has the majority of my tools so I’m doing all this with the bare minimum and yea this is my daily it was lol

 

Sounds can be deceiving. Personally, would not drive my car with a mysterious slapping sound coming from the cam belt/balance belt area. The entire transaxle series [i.e. 924, 928, 944, 968] was designed and built around an interference engine. Someone will correct me, but think that only the earliest 2.0L 924 had a non-interference engine. So, IF you lose the cam belt, or a balance belt failure takes out the cam belt, while you are driving, THEN it's not a question of "if you have to", but rather "how many valves will you have to" replace when you recondition the head.

Did your friend not bleed the hydraulic system after replacing the clutch disc, pressure plate, and throwout bearing? If not, he should have asked you about it, or simply gone ahead and done it. No favors here. Yes, you can bleed the hydraulic system yourself...have done so, by myself, in the driveway, many times. It certainly helps to have an extra set of hands, or feet in this case, to make the job easier. Having a pressure/vacuum bleeder helps, as well. You have to remove each wheel to access the caliper bleed nipples, and get under the middle of the car to reach the clutch slave [attached to the bellhousing]. There has to be a dozen folks on this list that live within half an hour from Newport. Start a new thread and ask if someone would come over, with needed tools, to assist/guide you through bleeding the hydraulic system. And don't forget to mention the craft beer in your fridge.

Been awhile since I tooled around the business end of a 944. Does your car have a half-inch vent hose running from the belt cover housing to the air box in front of the filter? Wondering if the black crud you found in your filter could be belt shavings?

Again, if it was me, would make arrangements for alternative transportation to work until this belt issue and clutch issue are resolved.

Lastly...beautiful car. Looks like a solid paint job. Have always loved these cars in [Alpine] white.

 

Ya I was a lil annoyed that they didn’t bleed the system while they were down there, especially after what I paid him. I have a vacuum bleeder so I’ll get up under there and bleed the system one day this week. The black in my air filter I think is coming from the fuel that is getting vacuumed out of the bad fuel dampener as it is getting sucked into the intake. I have a used fuel dampener in the mail. Is there any special precautions with the fuel system I need to take in order to swap the dampener? I should be able to just release the pressure at the end of the rail and catch whatever fuel into some rags right? Thank u again for the help! And yes I think I might put a hell wanted ad on here and see what happens. I’m sure somebody wouldn’t mind making some extra cash

 

I feel ya...my point, exactly.

When an extra set of hands isn't available, I typically use a vacuum [vice pressure] bleeder, myself. Start with the furthest caliper from the MC...RR, LR, RF, then LF. As the clutch has its own dedicated supply, do not think it matters if you do it first or last.

An advanced search here for "depressurizing 944 fuel system" should point you in the right direction. Seem to recall folks simply pulling the DME relay on a running car to purge the pressure line. Though, rags under the rail cap should work. Just make sure the pressure is relieved, and remember to contain the ball/spring, before you remove the cap.

Let us know what you find after pulling your front belt covers.