steering rack removal question
#1
Drifting
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I got the 2 17mm nuts off the rack mount plate on the passenger's side, but the ones on the driver's side are being 'obstinate'..Can I cut a slot in the end of the bolt with my Dremel and use a flat blade screwdriver tho hold the bolt while I turn the nut with an open end wrench?? Seems like it will work if the bolt is hard enough...TIA.
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#2
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I suppose you could but a better idea is a 5.5mm allen key shoved between the bolt and the cross member. I use the 5.5 as that's the only use i can find for it from that kit. That's usually the quickest way for those w/o a flex headed ratchet and shorty 17mm.
#3
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Options:
-- Wedge a screwdriver next to the bolt head (in the channel) to keep it from turning.
-- I use a standard 3/8-drive 17mm socket and a short breaker bar on the bolt head. I put the end of the breaker bar against the crossmember while turning the nuts. The head of the breaker bar is just the flex, and is narrower than the socket so it will fit there where many ratchets won't.
-- Wedge a screwdriver next to the bolt head (in the channel) to keep it from turning.
-- I use a standard 3/8-drive 17mm socket and a short breaker bar on the bolt head. I put the end of the breaker bar against the crossmember while turning the nuts. The head of the breaker bar is just the flex, and is narrower than the socket so it will fit there where many ratchets won't.
#4
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I was able to get a study box wrench in there at an angle. My box wrench has an angle which was just enough to grab the head.
Also try using a socket clamped hard with a vise grip.
I found PB Blaster excellent at loosening frozen bolts, also try tapping with a hammer a few times.\\
Good luck! I just went through removal this weekend and it was not my favorite job.
Also try using a socket clamped hard with a vise grip.
I found PB Blaster excellent at loosening frozen bolts, also try tapping with a hammer a few times.\\
Good luck! I just went through removal this weekend and it was not my favorite job.
#5
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I actually placed a thick washer in between the flat side of the bolt and the cross member. Then I used my air impact gun to remove the nut.
#6
Drifting
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I can't get my hand up in there without pulling the oil filter and I just changed the oil in April right before Hershey Flea Market. I think I'll drill one of my cheap 17mm sockets so I can put a 'cross-bar' thru it. I'll try the washer trick first, Kevin. Thanks All.
#7
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Depending on how collasped your motor mounts are your options diminish. In the past, I've used a 17mm with an adapter that converts from 3/8" socket to 5/8" end. But, even that can be too tall once the motor mounts have collapsed too far. I have a bucket of washers of various thickness I have collected over the years. You can also stack them to achieve the same results.
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#8
Drifting
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If you can jam the bolt heads sitting above the crossmember, then you don't need the room for a socket up there (but even with collapsed mounts there was room with some of the four bolts for a 3/8 17mm socket on a short handle).
An extendable mirror is very handy for seeing what's happening up there, then you can just jam a suitable size allen key between the bolt head and crossmember to prevent it spinning while you get the nuts off from below.
An extendable mirror is very handy for seeing what's happening up there, then you can just jam a suitable size allen key between the bolt head and crossmember to prevent it spinning while you get the nuts off from below.