Mrspencer

So at home with broken foot, and need to start on my intake removal, have oil leaking, actually being blown up onto my new hoodliner, passenger side, there is a nice puddle in a cavity behind the stamp where the engine number is, have put a oil absorbent towel in the cavity to suck up the oil .is the oil filler gasket shot.

nosnow

Sounds like it. I am in the last stages of my intake refresh... do your research and decide what route you want to go as the baffle/seal is no longer available for the 85/86 models. If you go the double seal route it may cause the filler neck to sit too high causing a problem.

SeanR

Not only is the oil filler shot, chances are the pressure check valve is no longer in place and the oil is getting blown out through where that and the hose used to be. Plan on a long and expensive intake refresh. This is one job you don't want to cheap out on.

Mrspencer

FOUND OIL BAFFLE SEAL ON EBAY, HQVE INTAKE GASKETS, THROTTLE INTAKE GASKETS, NEW 4 HOLE 19LB INJECTORS, NEED THE RUBBER BOOTS THAT GO TO THE THROTTLE BODIES, NOT EXPENSIVE, AS I THOUGHT JUST TIME CONSUMING.

docmirror

If you are doing an S3, there are about $700 worth of stuff to do a decent upper engine refresh. Cam cover seals, front crank seals, vac lines, knock sensors, intake boots, inj harness, fuel lines, etc. Sure, you can spend less. But if you want it right, plan to spend that much in materials.

Oh, and we don't care for shouting around here.

Mrspencer

wow, didn't know I was shouting, or that your so sensitive, and i don't need all that you mentioned, if you can't help on the advice don't reply pls, don't have time for all the bull**** that comes with some of you trolls, and you know who you are, why a crank seal, why not pull the trans,s and do the rear main, iys just rhe upper intake, you want ro reseal rhe entire engine, if it ain't broke don't fix ir.

bureau13

You typed in all caps, previously. That is usually interpreted as shouting, although almost always it's an inadvertently stuck caps lock key

However, you mentioned 19lb injectors....you're an S3, yes? So stock, is 24 lbs. You don't want to run 19 lb injectors, I wouldn't think...S4 used 19 lbs, which is why they're not as cool

Mrspencer

Sean it's not that bad it takes longer to clean up the intake, all that grime and grease, I get all my parts at cost I run a shop, if you look around the parts are out there, took about an hour tearing down , just gotta clean out the valley, and reassemble, it's always faster going back together.,anyway thanks for the reply.

docmirror

buh-bye

docmirror

Please stop presuming the OP has a clue....

Wisconsin Joe

#1 - You found a seal on E-bay? Are you certain it's the right one? Generally, if something is said to be NLA, anything you find on E-bay won't work. No matter what the seller says.

#2 - You have a couple things that have let go, causing a leak. You are going to fix just those things? Any idea how many other things (that are just as old) are about to go?
I understand the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" idea, but how many times do you want to R&R that intake?

monkez

Having *just* done a refresh intake on an S3, I can genuinely say that you do NOT want to take short-cuts (first time in 20+ years to work on a car, and I choose a 928 S3 ). Even if you don't take short-cuts, there will be mistakes made. Heck, any sensor connector that needs to be disconnected has a high likelihood of disintegrating in your fingers.

The folks here are *very* informed and they are ridiculously generous with their time and knowledge. In the case of an intake refresh, forewarned is forearmed.

Regardless, good luck with the repairs. Hopefully, everything is in good shape and the cost is kept to a minimum.

Crumpler

Hehe.
Don't forget TPS and short harness!

alex70

Just saying, a different tone with the folks that you are asking for help goes a long way. There are many here that are willing to assist, without you shouting, and if local, might be willing to do a visit to troubleshoot too. Don't burn bridges.

Good luck with your fix.

Become a member too! Support the folks that run this site.

Mrmerlin

since you have an S3 ,
you also have a metal fill port with a metal screen and O ring embedded into it ,
chances are the bolts that hold the fill port are loose and thats why you have a leak.
That said removing the fill port is best done with water bridge removal and the intake. If your going into it
replace the CPS the ICV the TPS the TPS short harness, a fresh MAF
plugs caps rotors wires, a new temp 2 sensor and connector.
Also the rubber air guides for the plenums and the center T ,
any of the return line vent hoses.

Consider a Greg Brown oil block off plate to replace the screen and O ring part,
use the Drei bond to seal it all together,
with the intake off its a good time to get it powder coated,
as well as getting the cam covers PCd and then refreshing the cam cover seals.
tossing in a set of new or freshly cleaned injectors is also a good idea ,
as previously pointed out , you dont want the 19# versions. add in new fuel lines as well.
Rebuild the water bridge and all of its seals the center seal will be done from getting soaked in oil


Um not really sure of your background, but I will not encourage you to cut corners with this job,
and if your not prepared to go all the way you will be setting yourself up for problems in the near future,.

NOTE if you are a mechanic then I hope you have learned if your going to do the job,
then you should do it right the first time,
Only you will know how much time your willing to invest the first time.

This is not the kind of machine that will tolerate corner cutting for long,
though you may get lucky for now.
I hope your foots on the mend