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Having completed my 1985 upper refresh last winter here's what I found most disturbing about the condition of the original parts that were being removed.
1) Majority of the fuel lines looked great on the outside. Until I removed them, cut them up for curiosity, and flexed them. It was incredible how cracked the inner material was. And those cracks went just about all the way thru. I honestly believe the car was just a couple of thousand more miles away from a disastrous engine fire.
2) The oil filler neck bolts weren't even finger tight. And consequently the engine valley was about an inch deep in an oil/dirt sludge. Yuk!
3) Replaced all the fuel injectors with the 24 lb Gen III 4 hole injectors. The original single prindle injectors were shot.
4) Replaced the power steering reservoir and both hoses as that was the only way I could stop that small leak.
5) And of course replaced the timing belt and water pump. Mainly because I had no record of when they were previously replaced.
6) Replaced the harmonic balancer because the original one's rubber parts were deteriorated badly.
7) Replaced the motor mounts and oil pan gasket. Both were original and again totally shot.
8) And then as a treat, i installed an X-pipe along with the Porken Chips. Wow was that combination a pleasant surprise!
None of the above was really unexpected considering it was a 30 year old car.
Sean it's not that bad it takes longer to clean up the intake, all that grime and grease, I get all my parts at cost I run a shop, if you look around the parts are out there, took about an hour tearing down , just gotta clean out the valley, and reassemble, it's always faster going back together.,anyway thanks for the reply.
Don't assume that the injectors work just because they are new or rebuilt. When you are ready to install the injectors you might be better off to send them to Witch Doctor or some other cleaning shop and install them within 24-48 hours unless you can sonically clean them just prior to install
Having completed my 1985 upper refresh last winter here's what I found most disturbing about the condition of the original parts that were being removed.
1) Majority of the fuel lines looked great on the outside. Until I removed them, cut them up for curiosity, and flexed them. It was incredible how cracked the inner material was. And those cracks went just about all the way thru. I honestly believe the car was just a couple of thousand more miles away from a disastrous engine fire.
2) The oil filler neck bolts weren't even finger tight. And consequently the engine valley was about an inch deep in an oil/dirt sludge. Yuk!
3) Replaced all the fuel injectors with the 24 lb Gen III 4 hole injectors. The original single prindle injectors were shot.
4) Replaced the power steering reservoir and both hoses as that was the only way I could stop that small leak.
5) And of course replaced the timing belt and water pump. Mainly because I had no record of when they were previously replaced.
6) Replaced the harmonic balancer because the original one's rubber parts were deteriorated badly.
7) Replaced the motor mounts and oil pan gasket. Both were original and again totally shot.
8) And then as a treat, i installed an X-pipe along with the Porken Chips. Wow was that combination a pleasant surprise!
None of the above was really unexpected considering it was a 30 year old car.
100% I had to do all that and found very similar condition of things on my car and it had been garaged all it's life...had about 80K on it but the PO stopped driving it like 7 years prior when kids showed up..so it just sat and rotted...
Oh, question..I want to polish the intakes...yours look like they are...or did you just use a paint that looks really good lol
100% I had to do all that and found very similar condition of things on my car and it had been garaged all it's life...had about 80K on it but the PO stopped driving it like 7 years prior when kids showed up..so it just sat and rotted...
Oh, question..I want to polish the intakes...yours look like they are...or did you just use a paint that looks really good lol
Hey 928NOOBIE,
The intake is powder coated along with the valve covers and Oil Filler neck. I spent considerable time washing out the intake tubes and headers to make sure there was no left over blasting media. Read too many horror stories on what has happened to others who did not do that.
Budget 4 hours for cleaning the intake after powder coating. Budget at least 2 hours before
Talk to the powder coater and tell them your concern.
Another option is spend big bucks on a rebuild... I tell you no lies
Just saying, a different tone with the folks that you are asking for help goes a long way. There are many here that are willing to assist, without you shouting, and if local, might be willing to do a visit to troubleshoot too. Don't burn bridges.
Good luck with your fix.
Become a member too! Support the folks that run this site.
listen didn't know I was shouting,wasn't aware I had pushed the cap button, I'll make sure to proof read my post better.
On the S3, the 2 breather hoses that terminate on pass side cam cover deteriorates.
It goes to gel at the cover, but gets rock hard at the other end.
Where the frontmost hose connects to the base of the oil filler neck it will crack and break out a chunk of hose. Result is as you describe, oil pooling, oil spraying.
It you fix one thing on this round, fix that!
I too sometimes repair a few critical elements, then return on another campaign to fix the rest.
After you operate on a few of these cars, it becomes second nature to dive back in when the finances allow.
On the S3, the 2 breather hoses that terminate on pass side cam cover deteriorates.
It goes to gel at the cover, but gets rock hard at the other end.
Where the frontmost hose connects to the base of the oil filler neck it will crack and break out a chunk of hose. Result is as you describe, oil pooling, oil spraying.
It you fix one thing on this round, fix that!
I too sometimes repair a few critical elements, then return on another campaign to fix the rest.
After you operate on a few of these cars, it becomes second nature to dive back in when the finances allow.
so today while family is camping, broke foot and surgery I can't go, so against doctors orders I go out and begin my search for the oil leak, found it to be as you have stated, forward hose on valve cover going to oil filler neck was rotted away,just mush also a couple rubber vacuum elbows have become ballooned do to oil exposure, had one hell of a rodent nest under the intake. My tps connector rotted away have new part already for that. Gotta hide all these parts from my wife, told her I was doing what the doctor said and staying off the foot., here's a thought I being a mechanic and have access to lots of tools, took my entire intake off with the tools in the tool kit, what other car company does that. Thanks to all.
tips is fine why would I replaced it , never had ano issue to the short harness, you giggle about, for your info Oriellys autoparts carries the replacement oh they also carry the tps. My cost is about 75.00 bucks."hee,hee".
Oil in the valley update, so I've had the stitches out and back on the oil leak, broken right toe, upon teardown I found a breather hose from the oil filler to the valve cover gasket rotted away, gone no longer attached, also found tps sensor harness brittle and destroyed, and crank sensor connector in the same condition, so I've replaced the defective parts cleaned the valley out, all vacuum lines and connections are in great shape, injectors were kept stock just cleaned and resealed,throttle body cleaned, maf cleaned , knock sensors were not done due to them not being in the valley, painted the intake, and all runners, car runs great no more smoke signals at the stop lights, sine I only repaired what was in need of service my cost were kept at a minimal, around $300.00. MANY THANKS TO ALL .
No more oil leaks ,thanks to all
tips is fine why would I replaced it , never had ano issue to the short harness, you giggle about, for your info Oriellys autoparts carries the replacement oh they also carry the tps. My cost is about 75.00 bucks."hee,hee".
Ok.
Mrspencer you are a member now, so let me cop to being a smart *** in that post. That was misplaced since you came on RL for help. I think you had accused Docmirror (one of the most knowledgeable among us) of being a internet troll, thus my levity.
This quote above suggests your TPS and short harness are known-good, but its also mentioned that you found a replacement TPS at low cost, and then replaced the failing short harness in the quote below.
If so, I think you will be pleased with the results.
Also, no knock sensors to replace on yours -- regardless of not being in the valley. Used S4 and up only.
Pic looks nice and clean!
Originally Posted by Mrspencer
also found tps sensor harness brittle and destroyed, and crank sensor connector in the same condition, so I've replaced the defective parts cleaned the valley out, all vacuum lines and connections are in great shape, injectors were kept stock just cleaned and resealed,throttle body cleaned, maf cleaned , knock sensors were not done due to them not being in the valley
QUOTE=Mrspencer;14292795]listen didn't know I was shouting,wasn't aware I had pushed the cap button, I'll make sure to proof read my post better.[/QUOTE]