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Hopefully, you cleaned the fuel tank thoroughly before adding the new fuel pump and filter. Did you clean your injectors prior to trying to start it? The engine might start and run for a second or two on the cold start valve, but it will then die if no fuel is getting through the gummed up injectors. When you clean your injectors ( I use B12 Chemtool), make sure you replace the O rings at the bottom of the injectors when reseating each injector.
Also, please have a fire extinguisher handy for those old and possibly rotten soft fuel lines. Better to have one close and not need it, than to not have access to one.
Last edited by soontobered84; 06-16-2017 at 12:22 AM.
Reason: add
Nicely done Nate, and good suggestion. I actually did exactly that on a prayer car and it was a huge help when I came back to work on it six months later. Having that reference save my bacon.
Hopefully, you cleaned the fuel tank thoroughly before adding the new fuel pump and filter. Did you clean your injectors prior to trying to start it? The engine might start and run for a second or two on the cold start valve, but it will then die if no fuel is getting through the gummed up injectors. When you clean your injectors ( I use B12 Chemtool), make sure you replace the O rings at the bottom of the injectors when reseating each injector.
Also, please have a fire extinguisher handy for those old and possibly rotten soft fuel lines. Better to have one close and not need it, than to not have access to one.
Hi John - I have not pulled the injectors yet, wanted to see if she would come up without doing that. Seems like it is going to be unavoidable, and obviously good to do at this age anyway.
So close - she briefly stumbled to life! Neighbors where probably wondering why I was standing there with my arms up the air and dumb grin on my face (that might be too much information).
She won't stay running however, she starts and idles roughly for about 10 seconds then dies.
I do the "arms in the air" Highlander quickening thing every single time I bring a car back to life. I have a Cayenne and a 928 so these moments happen more often than they probably should.....!
I do the "arms in the air" Highlander quickening thing every single time I bring a car back to life. I have a Cayenne and a 928 so these moments happen more often than they probably should.....!
Ha, having one fire up is a nice moment. Having it stay running will be even better.
Did some searching, looks like getting the injectors free will be a bit of a pain. Any good tips or guides on doing this the easy way? Pull the fuel rails and then deal with the injectors?
Could someone confirm that this is the right PET diagram for an '84?
Specifically looking to confirm that #6 sealing ring (#999-701-599-40) is correct for my car. When I started cleaning that part of the engine off under the intake I didn't see a sealing ring, so either it is missing or stuck on the intake manifold. I would seem it needs to be refreshed in either case to make sure I am not getting false air.
Don't feel bad, whether these cars run or not they all need the same parts replaced. All rubber fuel and at least the high pressure power steering hose need replacement immediately to prevent fire. Your injectors are likely to be gummed up, you can send them out to be cleaned and rebuilt.
The sealing ring is a very large o'ring that fits into the #1 'air guide housing'. Take the opportunity to do an intake refresh and replace all vacuum lines and anything rubber.
Could someone confirm that this is the right PET diagram for an '84?
Specifically looking to confirm that #6 sealing ring (#999-701-599-40) is correct for my car. When I started cleaning that part of the engine off under the intake I didn't see a sealing ring, so either it is missing or stuck on the intake manifold. I would seem it needs to be refreshed in either case to make sure I am not getting false air.
That's the correct P/N. It sits inside a groove inside the air guide housing. If it is like mine it will have lost its elasticity and be completely flattened in the groove and flush with the bore, thus providing very little sealing. Cheap and easy to replace.
Nicely done Nate, and good suggestion. I actually did exactly that on a prayer car and it was a huge help when I came back to work on it six months later. Having that reference save my bacon.
I'm pretty sure you you meant prior car. Freudian Slip?
Decided to take a break from the engine and bleed the brakes. Wheel came off fine, and I got good flow out the passenger side rear caliper but when I went to refil the brake master I heard fluid dripping under the car. Looks like the cloth covered line under the brake master reservoir has ruptured, so add that to the list of things.
As I started making a parts list it occurred to me that if I'm going to be changing out all of the braking system it would be timely to consider any upgrades that they may wish to do. As part of my Porsche 912 overhaul I went with a later SC front suspension for a couple reasons, but a key one of which was better brakes.
In doing some research and appears that my 1984 *** could be upgraded to later brakes through use of an adapter. Could someone take me to school on what other changes if any would be necessary for that? Do I need a new spindle from a later car?
If you are not tracking this car, you might want to just stick with stock brakes. I have never had a fade or any inclination that brakes were anything less than capable and I am a pretty aggressive driver.
Your car, your money. Just buy some good brakes pads and turn it loose.
06-16-2017, 12:00 AM
