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FS: Ritech Clamp-SOLD

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Old 06-14-2017, 08:29 PM
  #46  
Jerry Feather
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wrong thread
Old 06-14-2017, 10:03 PM
  #47  
GregBBRD
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Originally Posted by Jerry Feather
I wonder why the flex plate even has a clamp? The clutch discs don't have a clamp and they seem to essentially perform the same function - - making the connection of the drive shaft with the flywheel.
Good question.....and brings up the chance for me to promote a new product I'm working on.

When these cars were created, the torque tube shafts needed to be made from a steel that would flex and return to its original position. The steel they used was soft enough that the splines wouldn't survive unless there was no movement between the splines on the shaft and the splines in the coupler. Therefore, they clamped the splines on the automatics. On the manuals, they needed the splines to move (clutch discs), so they made a harder "short shaft" and coupled that to the softer torque tube.

Two different materials required back then.

People that are following closely will realize that I'm using 300M for both my manual transmission short shafts and my torque tube shafts....

One material for both functions!

I'm making automatic flex plate couplers that are as hard as the center in the clutch discs....eliminating any and all need for clamping. My new automatic coupler and existing torque tube shafts (for the automatics) will "float"....just like clutch discs do!

Problem solved! Throw away all the clamps and apply clutch disc spline lubrication.

No more engine damage remotely possible!
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Old 06-14-2017, 10:40 PM
  #48  
hacker-pschorr
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Originally Posted by GregBBRD
Problem solved! Throw away all the clamps and apply clutch disc spline lubrication.
That is the first thing Todd did when he made his twin turbo, just left the coupler loose so it could float. He was willing to sacrifice the shaft splines since he didn't want to risk the engine from a thrust bearing issue.

Todd and I discussed many times doing exactly what you are doing. Ultimately he's not in a position to do all the R&D for such a product (like you have been) since he already had his DOM tube driveshaft in development.

Nice work! Any "rough" ETA we can plan around? I need to eventually pull my trans to re-seal it and would be nice to plan around such an upgrade.
Old 06-14-2017, 10:48 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Hacker-Pschorr
That is the first thing Todd did when he made his twin turbo, just left the coupler loose so it could float. He was willing to sacrifice the shaft splines since he didn't want to risk the engine from a thrust bearing issue.

Todd and I discussed many times doing exactly what you are doing. Untimely he's not in a position to do all the R&D for such a product (like you have been) since he already had his DOM tube driveshaft in development.

Nice work! Any "rough" ETA we can plan around? I need to eventually pull my trans to re-seal it and would be nice to plan around such an upgrade.
They tell me by the end of July.
Old 06-15-2017, 12:45 AM
  #50  
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Perfect, since I plan to pull the trans this winter!
Old 06-15-2017, 09:01 AM
  #51  
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Greg,
need your new solution an grease nipple like my tractors with a 50 h lubrication interval?
Old 06-15-2017, 09:18 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by GregBBRD
Good question.....and brings up the chance for me to promote a new product I'm working on.

When these cars were created, the torque tube shafts needed to be made from a steel that would flex and return to its original position. The steel they used was soft enough that the splines wouldn't survive unless there was no movement between the splines on the shaft and the splines in the coupler. Therefore, they clamped the splines on the automatics. On the manuals, they needed the splines to move (clutch discs), so they made a harder "short shaft" and coupled that to the softer torque tube.

Two different materials required back then.

People that are following closely will realize that I'm using 300M for both my manual transmission short shafts and my torque tube shafts....

One material for both functions!

I'm making automatic flex plate couplers that are as hard as the center in the clutch discs....eliminating any and all need for clamping. My new automatic coupler and existing torque tube shafts (for the automatics) will "float"....just like clutch discs do!

Problem solved! Throw away all the clamps and apply clutch disc spline lubrication.

No more engine damage remotely possible!

OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!

GimmegimmegimmegimmegimmegimmeGIMME!!!
Old 06-15-2017, 09:43 AM
  #53  
Taguid
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That's fantastic Greg! Installed SuperBearings and beautiful driveshaft into TT.
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Old 06-15-2017, 10:49 AM
  #54  
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Why does the drive shaft have the small neck turned on it right at the end of the splines, between the splines and the rest of the shaft?
Old 06-15-2017, 12:28 PM
  #55  
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BTDT when we did our initial research into TBF many years ago and we finally defaulted to a much better clamp, the Super Clamp.


This wont be as easy as you think.


Cheers,
Constantine
Old 06-15-2017, 12:31 PM
  #56  
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Now that is simply fantastic.

Originally Posted by GregBBRD
Good question.....and brings up the chance for me to promote a new product I'm working on.

When these cars were created, the torque tube shafts needed to be made from a steel that would flex and return to its original position. The steel they used was soft enough that the splines wouldn't survive unless there was no movement between the splines on the shaft and the splines in the coupler. Therefore, they clamped the splines on the automatics. On the manuals, they needed the splines to move (clutch discs), so they made a harder "short shaft" and coupled that to the softer torque tube.

Two different materials required back then.

People that are following closely will realize that I'm using 300M for both my manual transmission short shafts and my torque tube shafts....

One material for both functions!

I'm making automatic flex plate couplers that are as hard as the center in the clutch discs....eliminating any and all need for clamping. My new automatic coupler and existing torque tube shafts (for the automatics) will "float"....just like clutch discs do!

Problem solved! Throw away all the clamps and apply clutch disc spline lubrication.

No more engine damage remotely possible!
Old 06-15-2017, 12:48 PM
  #57  
Jerry Feather
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So, Greg, if you are making the shafts out of better material that wont need a clamp. why are you still making a short shaft for the manuals rather than just one shaft like with the automatics?
Old 06-15-2017, 12:59 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Jerry Feather
So, Greg, if you are making the shafts out of better material that wont need a clamp. why are you still making a short shaft for the manuals rather than just one shaft like with the automatics?
How would you remove the clutch without dropping the torque tube?
Old 06-15-2017, 01:09 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Hacker-Pschorr
How would you remove the clutch without dropping the torque tube?
No kidding, nothing like taking a 6 hour job and turning it in to a 20 hour job.
Old 06-15-2017, 02:39 PM
  #60  
GregBBRD
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Originally Posted by Jerry Feather
Why does the drive shaft have the small neck turned on it right at the end of the splines, between the splines and the rest of the shaft?
The machine that cuts the splines needs room to run past the splines. That area needs to be undercut. The stock shafts have the same feature.


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