Paint preparation
06-08-2017, 01:57 PM
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Paint preparation
All -
Been starting to study up on the painting process. Plan is to repaint the 928 during the fall/winter of this year.
There is no MAJOR body work to do. Repaint at some point in the past was poorly done, so all of that needs to be sanded back to the original factory finish. One very small dent above drivers door and a little spot of rust on the edge of the hatch above the tail light.
Debating on rub strip delete...not sure yet if mine are glued or screwed. Will be taking factory spoilers off but will reinstall (love the look).
Plan is to pull the interior and recover, etc. and reinstall after painting.
How much paint do I need to be thinking about the project taking?
How much clear?
Car will be repainted factory Kiln Red color.
Thanks all -
-scott
Been starting to study up on the painting process. Plan is to repaint the 928 during the fall/winter of this year.
There is no MAJOR body work to do. Repaint at some point in the past was poorly done, so all of that needs to be sanded back to the original factory finish. One very small dent above drivers door and a little spot of rust on the edge of the hatch above the tail light.
Debating on rub strip delete...not sure yet if mine are glued or screwed. Will be taking factory spoilers off but will reinstall (love the look).
Plan is to pull the interior and recover, etc. and reinstall after painting.
How much paint do I need to be thinking about the project taking?
How much clear?
Car will be repainted factory Kiln Red color.
Thanks all -
-scott
06-08-2017, 02:19 PM
#2
I have done this, essentially twice, on my own, up to the final primer surfacer/sealer stage before color.
It is my recommendation with the hardness of the paint, and the issues with a primer reacting depending on the substrate, that you sandblast every piece you can get off the car.
I have done this twice with great results and time saved.
The media used and the person doing it has to be sensitive to the aluminum surface, but I have had good luck.
Fenders, doors, hood, hatch, and sunroof panel all come off. And you NEED to take them off anyway to do a real repaint.
Then you sand the surface you get back with 80 grit DA, and prime.
Cleanliness is next to godliness here. Epoxy and Sanding primer and bondo all can be done in a back yard or garage (with ventilation) but the color steps really need a paint booth.
Amazon is your friend for all your materials except for the paint/primer.
www.southernpolyurethanes.com
Best stuff. You won't get your color there, but you can get all your primers stages and activators, and the clear is great. Also the forum is great support when you run into trouble.
It is my recommendation with the hardness of the paint, and the issues with a primer reacting depending on the substrate, that you sandblast every piece you can get off the car.
I have done this twice with great results and time saved.
The media used and the person doing it has to be sensitive to the aluminum surface, but I have had good luck.
Fenders, doors, hood, hatch, and sunroof panel all come off. And you NEED to take them off anyway to do a real repaint.
Then you sand the surface you get back with 80 grit DA, and prime.
Cleanliness is next to godliness here. Epoxy and Sanding primer and bondo all can be done in a back yard or garage (with ventilation) but the color steps really need a paint booth.
Amazon is your friend for all your materials except for the paint/primer.
www.southernpolyurethanes.com
Best stuff. You won't get your color there, but you can get all your primers stages and activators, and the clear is great. Also the forum is great support when you run into trouble.