New 928 5 speed owner
#1
New 928 5 speed owner
Just wanted to introduce myself to the forum, hoping to gain alot of knowledge here about my car to help me bring it back from the dead.
Finally coming to the end of finishing my BMW 850 project and was looking for something else to keep me busy. Picked up 1980 928 5 speed manual today with 59k miles.
It's rough, some idiot sprayed flat black paint on most of the exterior and added newer wheels that don't look right, the interior is shot.., many electrical issues like headlights are stuck open.. Engine works great but is ticking (lifter?).
Main problem right now the car is not derivable due to a bad clutch, PO said the clutch started slipping, so possibly need a new friction plate, but now would not disengage, clutch pedal feels stiff (any suggestions)?
My other P car is 2008 Cayenne Turbo.
Cheers!
Finally coming to the end of finishing my BMW 850 project and was looking for something else to keep me busy. Picked up 1980 928 5 speed manual today with 59k miles.
It's rough, some idiot sprayed flat black paint on most of the exterior and added newer wheels that don't look right, the interior is shot.., many electrical issues like headlights are stuck open.. Engine works great but is ticking (lifter?).
Main problem right now the car is not derivable due to a bad clutch, PO said the clutch started slipping, so possibly need a new friction plate, but now would not disengage, clutch pedal feels stiff (any suggestions)?
My other P car is 2008 Cayenne Turbo.
Cheers!
#3
Welcome to 928 ownership!
Engine ticking is either the injectors ( batch fired and they are loud) or a lifter as you suspect which is remedied by doing an oil change and running the engine for a while.
Sometimes an additive is needed but the lifters themselves rarely if ever fail on their own.
It does sound like you need a new clutch as it doesn't seem to have been properly adjusted by the PO leading to the failure you currently have.
It's a common issue unfortunately.
Engine ticking is either the injectors ( batch fired and they are loud) or a lifter as you suspect which is remedied by doing an oil change and running the engine for a while.
Sometimes an additive is needed but the lifters themselves rarely if ever fail on their own.
It does sound like you need a new clutch as it doesn't seem to have been properly adjusted by the PO leading to the failure you currently have.
It's a common issue unfortunately.
#4
#5
Welcome to 928 ownership!
Engine ticking is either the injectors ( batch fired and they are loud) or a lifter as you suspect which is remedied by doing an oil change and running the engine for a while.
Sometimes an additive is needed but the lifters themselves rarely if ever fail on their own.
It does sound like you need a new clutch as it doesn't seem to have been properly adjusted by the PO leading to the failure you currently have.
It's a common issue unfortunately.
Engine ticking is either the injectors ( batch fired and they are loud) or a lifter as you suspect which is remedied by doing an oil change and running the engine for a while.
Sometimes an additive is needed but the lifters themselves rarely if ever fail on their own.
It does sound like you need a new clutch as it doesn't seem to have been properly adjusted by the PO leading to the failure you currently have.
It's a common issue unfortunately.
What additive would you suggest for ticking lifters, anything tried and true?
Don't believe it's the injectors.
So I am about to order sachs clutch for the car, based on the fact that the current clutch does not disengage (stiff pedal) do I need to order any other parts, throw out bearing or clutch slave/master cylinder? is it recommended to have the flywheel resurfaced? Any other fun things I should do in there while the transmission is out?
For clutch adjustment is there a tool I need?
Sorry, alot of questions that I could have probably found using search, but i'm a newbie to 928 hopefully I get a pass
#6
Read the section of the Workshop Manual (WSM) about removing and replacing the dual-disc clutch. Then read it again. It's a complicated setup, and the odds that your problem is the clutch discs is pretty small. Each of those pieces is pretty expensive, so it would be much better to take it apart and see what's wrong before throwing money on parts that might be okay at it.
Oh, and put your hand on the fuel line and if you feel the pulsing of that line in time with the tick, it's injectors. It's almost always injectors, they're really loud.
Oh, and put your hand on the fuel line and if you feel the pulsing of that line in time with the tick, it's injectors. It's almost always injectors, they're really loud.
#7
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Or if really bad, adding a quart of Dexron trans fluid (removing a quart of oil first) then running it for an hour or so then an oil/filter change has also worked.
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#8
Welcome to the shark tank from another joint 957 Turbo and 928 owner.
Those are 997 TT wheels, and I'm assuming in the narrow body fitment as rears would be completely wrong for a 928. Front offsets are also completely wrong and will be out too far for proper suspension geometry. I'm guessing the offsets on those front wheels are in the range of a 50-53 and the 928 needs something closer to a 57 min and 60-65 is better on an 8" with. Panamera wheels are a good OEM choice and I think look quite good too.
Regarding your interior, I have a set of really good black door panels, black power seats, black rear center console with solid flip up lid and some other stuff, all leftover from my '79 Spyder build if you're interested - seats are for sale in the Marketplace but I haven't cleaned up and listed the other stuff yet - maybe this week.
Those are 997 TT wheels, and I'm assuming in the narrow body fitment as rears would be completely wrong for a 928. Front offsets are also completely wrong and will be out too far for proper suspension geometry. I'm guessing the offsets on those front wheels are in the range of a 50-53 and the 928 needs something closer to a 57 min and 60-65 is better on an 8" with. Panamera wheels are a good OEM choice and I think look quite good too.
Regarding your interior, I have a set of really good black door panels, black power seats, black rear center console with solid flip up lid and some other stuff, all leftover from my '79 Spyder build if you're interested - seats are for sale in the Marketplace but I haven't cleaned up and listed the other stuff yet - maybe this week.
#9
Welcome to the shark tank from another joint 957 Turbo and 928 owner.
Those are 997 TT wheels, and I'm assuming in the narrow body fitment as rears would be completely wrong for a 928. Front offsets are also completely wrong and will be out too far for proper suspension geometry. I'm guessing the offsets on those front wheels are in the range of a 50-53 and the 928 needs something closer to a 57 min and 60-65 is better on an 8" with. Panamera wheels are a good OEM choice and I think look quite good too.
Regarding your interior, I have a set of really good black door panels, black power seats, black rear center console with solid flip up lid and some other stuff, all leftover from my '79 Spyder build if you're interested - seats are for sale in the Marketplace but I haven't cleaned up and listed the other stuff yet - maybe this week.
Those are 997 TT wheels, and I'm assuming in the narrow body fitment as rears would be completely wrong for a 928. Front offsets are also completely wrong and will be out too far for proper suspension geometry. I'm guessing the offsets on those front wheels are in the range of a 50-53 and the 928 needs something closer to a 57 min and 60-65 is better on an 8" with. Panamera wheels are a good OEM choice and I think look quite good too.
Regarding your interior, I have a set of really good black door panels, black power seats, black rear center console with solid flip up lid and some other stuff, all leftover from my '79 Spyder build if you're interested - seats are for sale in the Marketplace but I haven't cleaned up and listed the other stuff yet - maybe this week.
Are the 997 TT wheels worth anything? (assuming they are OEM).
I was actually looking forward to putting period correct wheels on, 15x7? is it?
Will be interested in your seats and interior depending on price vs redoing original seats. Will pm you also.
#10
some period correct phone dials would look great. OEM TT wheels are probably worth $1,000-$1,500 depending on condition.
#12
Thank you!
So I am about to order sachs clutch for the car, based on the fact that the current clutch does not disengage (stiff pedal) do I need to order any other parts, throw out bearing or clutch slave/master cylinder? is it recommended to have the flywheel resurfaced? Any other fun things I should do in there while the transmission is out?
For clutch adjustment is there a tool I need?
Sorry, alot of questions that I could have probably found using search, but i'm a newbie to 928 hopefully I get a pass
So I am about to order sachs clutch for the car, based on the fact that the current clutch does not disengage (stiff pedal) do I need to order any other parts, throw out bearing or clutch slave/master cylinder? is it recommended to have the flywheel resurfaced? Any other fun things I should do in there while the transmission is out?
For clutch adjustment is there a tool I need?
Sorry, alot of questions that I could have probably found using search, but i'm a newbie to 928 hopefully I get a pass
It's entirely possible that the clutch itself is fine. Or maybe the discs are shot (although I'm at a loss to understand how that would prevent disengagement). Slave cylinder is one guess.
I would get it up on stands (liftbars are the best way short of a lift), and drop the clutch. See what you have before you start spending money.
TOB is often fine, and the bearing alone is $150 or so. Pilot bearing (in the back of the crank) is dirt cheap (less than $10) and is pretty easy to pull when the clutch is out. Release arm bushing is also only a couple bucks and easy to do when it's out.
#13
Also, the dual plate clutch in the early cars is one of the weakest links in the drivetrain. If you have to do clutch replacement work, you might want to consider going to the more substantial pinned clutch of the '83-'86 cars. That's what Carl at 928 Motorsports did on my '79.
#15
As was noted, read the WSM. Section 30 is the clutch. It's not all that hard. Not sure why you are planning on dropping the trans. It doesn't have to come out to do the clutch.
It's entirely possible that the clutch itself is fine. Or maybe the discs are shot (although I'm at a loss to understand how that would prevent disengagement). Slave cylinder is one guess.
I would get it up on stands (liftbars are the best way short of a lift), and drop the clutch. See what you have before you start spending money.
TOB is often fine, and the bearing alone is $150 or so. Pilot bearing (in the back of the crank) is dirt cheap (less than $10) and is pretty easy to pull when the clutch is out. Release arm bushing is also only a couple bucks and easy to do when it's out.
It's entirely possible that the clutch itself is fine. Or maybe the discs are shot (although I'm at a loss to understand how that would prevent disengagement). Slave cylinder is one guess.
I would get it up on stands (liftbars are the best way short of a lift), and drop the clutch. See what you have before you start spending money.
TOB is often fine, and the bearing alone is $150 or so. Pilot bearing (in the back of the crank) is dirt cheap (less than $10) and is pretty easy to pull when the clutch is out. Release arm bushing is also only a couple bucks and easy to do when it's out.