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The fan clutch is not supposed to unscrew from the shaft, to my knowledge. Remove the M10 nut on the pulley, remove the pulley, tap the shaft forward out of the bearings.
See this screen clip from AutoAtlanta:
#2 is the fan clutch, #12 is the M10 nut that holds the pulley on and secures everything.
Hey Scott, are you doing this to go electric? There are some advantages there. It's a little cumbersome in the S3, because you can't just delete the fan carrier arm because it's holding the throttle cable intermediates.
I went electric route and Crumpler is right you have to keep the arm. Here's a cool thing..I added relays in the front passenger side corner and was able to preserve after-engine cooling circuit . The after engine cooling circuit closes the switch on the intake manifold and then goes through a ceramic resistor in front of the rad on passenger side wall to make it 6 volts or whatever it is so the fan runs at a slower speed...
I just pulled the hot wire out and pushed it over to the fan control and voila! There is additional power available at lower rpm with electric. With my set up you remove the pusher fan in the front ...that thing was so shot it would barely turn...the set up I bought advertised the current usage to be a wash with the front fan but I bet my front fan was pulling more since it was almost frozen.
I'll definitely be going electric. The fan is so friggin noisy you can barely hear anything else. I'll have to remember that engine shut down trick. Cheers
04-14-2017, 04:48 AM
. The after engine cooling circuit closes the switch on the intake manifold and then goes through a ceramic resistor in front of the rad on passenger side wall to make it 6 volts or whatever it is so the fan runs at a slower speed...