Geo55

I timed the cams using the PK32 V'r but wanted to check with you guys whether on not I can crank it over with the 14 pin connector and the other harness behind the power steering reservoir disconnected. Alternator is still under the car on a bucket and none of the belts are on. Plug wires off along with caps and rotors. I would also pull fuse 42 for the fuel pump. What do you think?

Mrmerlin

not sure what your asking BUT all the wires need to be connected ,
then use the #14 pin of the connector touched to the hot post to crank the engine over.
If you mean the wires are off the starter or alternator or the ABS connector then you will not have any power at the hot post stud

soontobered84

Stan,
I believe the OP is simply asking if anything not connected will be damaged by turning the engine through a complete cycle to check the cam timing.

The answer to that would be no.

If you are asking about using the starter to crank the engine over without the wires being connected see Stan's answer above in the previous post.

hacker-pschorr

I made one of these to crank the engine via the starter with a car battery.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wmr-w80586

Geo55

Yes, I want to confirm the timing by rotating the engine with the starter as in the instructions for my PK32V'r. Alternator, starter, all electrical hooked up except for the 2 mentioned connectors. caps and rotors are off. If it is smart to hook them up (the 2 connections) before cranking it, then that it what I'll do. I want to be safe and not do any damage. Thank you so much for your replies.

soontobered84

I always turn the engine over by hand after changing anything concerning the timing belt just to make sure everything is in place correctly prior to using the starter to do it. If the timing belt is not tensioned correctly, it can slip on the cam gears, the engine would be out of time, and valves could get bent. Not worth it to me.

davek9

Me too, just rotate the crank clockwise a dozen times by hand (removing the spark plugs makes it a lot easier).

Go55 I would strongly suggest you remove that Water bridge and replace all the 'O' rings/seals and do the oil filler to block gasket while that is out, yours looks tired, old and leaking
The above parts are cheep, however the labor is not and you are right there now

Dave K

hacker-pschorr

That's why I just wired up a switch to the starter with a car battery.

My front engine harness was undergoing surgery so I had to come up with some way to turn it over with the starter.

Geo55

Thanks Dave, I am in the process of doing that. Actually a top end refresh $$. I sopped out the deep valleys of the oil and now doesn't look bad. You can also see the Allen wrench sticking out of the #^%$#@& bolt on the left rear of the water bridge (Been soaking it for 3 weeks). I did turn the motor over 5-6 times by hand, Do you think that would be enough to give me an accurate reading of the cam timing? Also bought Gregs fuel line replacements.






This was full to the top and leaking over. Assume that the gasket is gone. Got an other from Roger.

Geo55

Hacker-Pschorr, when you hooked up the remote starter button, did you just ground the battery and hook the other side to the starter?

hacker-pschorr

I'm pretty sure I ran the ground from the battery to the starter, then put the switch on the positive between the starter and the battery.

Nothing else was connected to the starter except those two wires with the high amp switch on "red". I have an RV battery with screw terminals which makes it easy to rig up such stuff for testing.

davek9

Geo55, good move

Geo55

These things aren't positive ground are they? Or am I missing something? I know some of the older MG's were. Could someone please clarify?

Geo55

Maybe it was the triumph TR's.

Geo55

Sorry I misread. I see the ground going to the starter housing and the hot going to the starter terminal, Right?