Working on the Throttle switches and cable to get both switches working and connected properly. Thought I had it today but went to do the idle adjustment after verifying all connections and switches were working and I can't get even a flicker of red blinker from the A test pole. Like it died. Reset the CO by ohms so it is really close but no red blinker no matter how I adjust the MAF. Even checked the LED bulb.
What is the most likely cause of that? The car runs great but the idle control is not right. When I adjust the idle with B and C jumped the idle control turns off. Then with the jumper removed it is turned on but the idle goes to 800+. Way to high after setting it was set at 680 with the idle control turned off. Like it is not working but it seems to be.
Everything is new. O2, MAF, Idle control valve, WOT switch, wot cable.
Recently installed Porken chips and '87 FPR. Sure is a nice gain in power.

Tomorrow, I guess I can check "A" post to LH #22 pin.
The O2 sensor connection to the VIII ground where ever that is.
Change the XX relay as the O2 sensor connects to pin #30.
Any suggestions for the blinker being out would be great.

Meanwhile I will once again verify the idle switch is working and Idle and WOT connections are solid past the Bosch connectors holder bracket and at LH #3 and #12.
Cheers, Steve

 

check for air leaks,
is the water bridge powder coated?

 

When I have had issues with idle too high sometimes it's been that MAF was overly rich at idle but sounds like this is a different problem. Your O2 is new I think you mentioned, correct Steve?

Don't know if the chips may be making a difference...in some cases Ken mentions the car may idle higher.

How is it running outside of the increase in idle? If it is running great I wouldn't worry so much about idle speed....

 

Mr. Merlin, Sorry don't know what a water bridge by that term. Do you mean the housing where the thermostat resides?
If yes It has flaking original paint. Are you thinking a water temp sensor? Mine are all new. Are you thinking there could be a bad ground there? Is that where ground VIII is? All the vacuum lines on the top of the motor are new.

Matt, I just won't be happy until the car has a working WOT, IDLE switch and I can blinker set the MAF.
Going to drive 200 miles today to 928 Int and back. Need to do a bit of research on body panel access for some dig repair and the instrument panel for a refurbishment of the pod.
Will start checking continuity of connections and Throttle switch function. Who knows maybe a drive will giggle some bad connection.

 

water bridge holds the thermostat, and it should be bare aluminum ,
if its got paint on it the ground may not be good,
remember the only way their will be a ground will be from the the 4 holding bolts,
the sensors must also be secured with no coatings on the seating surfaces

 

Hi Steve

Interested to hear how the drive went today and if you attempted to adjust for blink'r afterwards?

With the blink'r not working at all it feels like the O2 pulse isn't getting through...

 

Yup Matt, That's what seems to be the problem I did not get time to start tracing the connections today. Car ran very strong.
Good point Stan. I have not painted any of the engine. I removed the factory paint on the cam covers air flow tubes and collectors and put a little buff on them. There is no factory paint on the engine parts under the air tubes. I think the part with peeling factory paint i have not gotten off yet is the part the oil fill and breather vac tubes connect to. Just have not had occasion to pull that casting as yet.

Just got back from 928 international and the car runs really great. it accelerates from 65 to well over 100 in a few seconds. The idle is worked fair around town but I want to get the blinker test working for optimal CO.
Learned some good stuff at 928 by looking at disassembled cars. Got a few cheep parts for little stuff. Asked about a few spare bolts. Standard stuff but they sell them as Porsche part numbers only. Will google for some cad plated bolts to have on hand when one slips into never never land.
Back to the testing tomorrow. Will look for any paint or ground points I have not already cleaned.
Will post my findings on the blinker test and idle after more testing.
Thanks again. Steve

 

65 to well over 100 in a few seconds? really? That feels faster than my car.

 

Got a little time to look for a reason for not blinker from the A pole. I first tested the connection to the throttle switch back to the LH. Working great. Next the connection from the A test pole to the LH. Again it tested good. I did notice a bent connector of the LH cable for setting the resistance to the MAF CO adjuster. Adjusted that and took a drive to get the O2 sensor hot. Still no blinker.
So either the LH or the O2 sensor are not functioning.
I recall testing my previous O2 sensor wit the car running and hot for voltage under the carpet. Seems to me there may have been a fuse on the main line or the heat source wires. I guess I will look that up and do that test. I don't have a spare LH to test with but I could put my stock LH chip back in in case the new one failed. Don't know what else to do since the wires hind both LH and O2 and even the Thottle switch test good. Got some other work to do first for a couple days.
On a side note I decided to try removing some body dings. Where I could get behind the ding it was not that bad. Where I can't I tried the Glued pad pulling meathod and got some improvement but not complete removal. THe glue gives way a bit too easily to get the leverage I need. I am for sure encouraged but this technique when access is not that feasible from behind. I did try the bent wire technique but I need better material. More on that later.
Cheers, Steve

 

If you have Porken's chips in there and are considering swapping out with stock to test if Blink'r works again probably need to swap out the EZ chips also.

 

If the O2 sensor checks OK, the last thing I can think of is the LH so since I have to pull the EZ to get the LH out I may as well put both old chips back in for the test. I do wonder if the temp II sensor which is also new could be part of an O2 failure. If the O2 shows no life. I don't know what turns the O2 sensor on. If it is a sensor that activates the LH to or EZ to turn the O2 on I guess there is another possible component to check.
Steve

 

I'm going through a saga with my car at the moment and will be replacing the Temp II ....mine isn't that old either...make sure if you replace get a Bosch unit.