Bertrand Daoust

Happy if it helped Crumpler.

That's what Rennlist is all about...

Crumpler

w1lliamAn

Bump. Struggling to get the longer spring back on (second picture from original post). Am i supposed to have the spring set in place (like the second picture) then put the shoe brakes on or put the shoe brakes on then pull the springs into place? Any help would be appreciated as i am stuck.

jpitman2

These..seeing as my original link is now broken.
https://www.kctoolco.com/stahlwille-...pliers-210-mm/
They can be had as low as $10. Still have mine from when I was a brake mechanic, a lifetime ago.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k

Zirconocene

Hopefully I don't confuse things further.

Here's the order of spring installation:
1) the long one that holds the 2 brake pieces/pads together (like the second picture)
2) get the pad and spring assembly from step 1 around the hub and reasonably seated where it's supposed to go (more on this down below)
3) install the shorter of the springs that hold the 2 brake pads together (picture 3, it's the spring on the left in picture 1). This can be tricky as you also want to install the parking brake adjuster at this time (the barrel thing with the star gear). It's this second spring that will be the detent for adjusting your parking brake. After you install this spring you will likely find that the 2 brake pads will want to "fold in" on themselves, due to the spring pressure. Hold them vertically as best you're able then proceed.
4) Install the little guys that go through the pads and hook into the hub, one each for the top and the bottom. I remember having to hold the pads with one hand while I maneuvered the retaining spring in on the end of a flathead screwdriver, as suggested above.

I would also recommend that you grease up the adjustment mechanism while you have everything apart. I have found that they tend to get pretty rusty and are hard to spin in that state. I use MoS2 grease for it, keeping the grease on the inside of the assembly.

Good luck, I hope what I've written helps clarify things.

Cheers

w1lliamAn

Nice this does clear it up a bit thank you. I feel like i tried step 1-2 and didnt work out. Guess i need to move it around a bit.

So to be clear, the long spring (in second picture of original post) needs to be hooked onto both shoe pads before putting them onto the hub. This is the only spring i am unable to put back together.

Zirconocene

It's been a little bit since I did this but yes, you are correct. I ended up fiddling around with getting the springs in while the assembly was completely off the hub, as getting the bits of the spring that attach to the shoe (I knew I was forgetting the right term!) is a little tricky. I wouldn't bet my life on it, but I remember that there was one way that worked well, and many that didn't, meaning that one end of the spring should be installed first. I apologize that I can't be more specific than that. (EDIT TO ADD: I remember maneuvering the shoe is some sort of weird ways to get the spring in, which I couldn't do while things were on the hub. The shorter spring is less of a hassle, if I remember correctly)

You're not alone in your frustration with this. Between the general fiddliness of things and any rust that interferes, I find the parking brake work less satisfying than I would like.

Good luck

w1lliamAn

much appreciated thank you.

Bertrand Daoust

I knew that I posted something on this but wasn't sure when/where this morning when I read your PM w1lliamAn.
That's the one for sure.

Zirconocene's post #20 is spot on.

Good luck.

w1lliamAn

sweet thanks.

GregBBRD

Perhaps worth noting here; the emergency brakes shoes have been superceded to 996 shoes. The metal in these shoes is thicker and requires different adjusters. The springs that hold the shoe to the hub have also been superceded.

Mixing of the different pieces makes things....difficult.

Christopher Zach

Agreed, it is a pain in the rear. I used a file to slightly widen the slot in the adjuster gear ends in order to make the new brake pads work. Really annoying but worse things can happen.

In the category of "worse things" having one of the springs that secure the pad to the hub break is worse. In my car the pads were worn down to the point where the spring was under tension, it broke, and the resulting event in the hub ripped apart the end of the brake cable. Had to completely rebuild the stupid thing with a new brake cable, what a pain in the rear.

Do it once, do it right, make sure those springs are set and don't let the pads get down to nothing.

GregBBRD

The cost of an entire new set of springs equates to about 10 minutes of my shop labor rate....rarely do I mess around with old ones.
And filing down the adjusters, when they cost $5.00 each, isn't remotely cost effective for me or my clients.....that gives me less than 45 seconds, per slot, to modify them.

Rob Edwards

928 International has a world-class selection of quality used 928 parking brake shoes at $15 a pop. This is about 10% of their supply.

Christopher Zach

Oh and for the side springs, I've found that tying a string to one end, then pulling on the string to stretch the spring is the way to go. Much better than pliers and such.