hinch77

Never considered a 928 and I'm currently restoring an 86 951 Turbo...but this fell into my lap today and I'm driving out to see the car this weekend...and have a quote on a short haul ship for $350...
1982 Porsche 928 w 127k original miles, running car, currently inspected and on the road..has minor surface rust and the interior needs work..but it's all there & appears original.

My ears are open to the experts here on these cars because my background on these is limited and I'd appreciate any feedback & advice on this possible purchase.

outbackgeorgia

I would not buy a 928 with any rust/corrosion. There are too many examples rust free, corrosion free that it is a waste of $ to repair any rust.
Just my opinion.

GT6ixer

If it is roadworthy I'd have a PPI done on it by someone that knows these cars. This one appears to have lived at least is recent life outdoors by evidence of all the foilage in the engine bay. Biggest killer would be old rubber fuel and PS lines that have caused many fires. They will all need replaced. The electrics will likely be hit and miss. Try everything and if half of it works you are probably doing good. What city are you in? Someone here should be able to recommend the closest 928 guru that you can have put eyes on it. Many will tell you that any 928 in this state will need $5K to $10K in repairs to start. If this is the first one you are looking at I'd suggest look at others for sale before making a decision. Also ask the owner to see the previous maintenance records. If there are none that's another red flag.

Good luck!

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hinch77

TY
I managed to schedule a survey of the car tomorrow...the surface rust around the front headlight bezel is the only rust on the car...it's been maintained and owned by a foreign auto mechanic so I have to assume he knows what he's doing.
On an intact, running 1982 928, what is a fair asking price/value ??

Wisconsin Joe

Where, exactly, is the "minor surface rust"? If it's just scratches that have rusted a bit, then maybe not a real big deal.

Where, exactly, is the air filter? Is the seller running it without one?

Who, exactly, put that wing on the back. That there is a hangin' offense 'round these parts.

hinch77

Lmao

Survey is scheduled, just got off the phone...

So I will ask about the wing and the air filter..what else should I be looking and asking for..?
and yes, the rust is minor surface rust near the front headlight..

jcorenman

Rear wing is off a later car (or aftermarket), question is what else did the seller (or a previous PO) mess with? Air filter is missing completely, was it run that way for many miles?

The rust thing is weird: The front fenders on these cars are aluminum... which doesn't rust. So maybe not rust??

Fuel lines: What shape are they in, have they ever been changed?? CBQ=Bad

hinch77

If you look closely you can see the surface corrosion/rust in the photo showing the passenger side head light...right where the seam is between the hood and the fender (passenger side) near the nose..

dr bob

Late finishing typing... sorry!

GT6ixer

Just because the owner is a foreign auto mechanic doesn't necessarily mean he knows 928s. I'd ask him how many other 928s he's worked on.

What is that red bar in front of the air intakes? Looks to me like a broom handle that is used to hold up the hood. If that is the case that's a bad sign. The shocks are one of the cheapest things you can fix on a 928 and if they aren't done it means two things. First he's probably skimped on paying for other maintenance and second he's not maintaining anything under the good regularly because going in and out is a pain when you have to prop it up everytime.

As for price, it really depends on a lot but based on the pictures with appearant neglect, aftermarket wing and radio, and assuming it starts idles and drives ok I'd say it's worth no more than $5K.

Adk46

Add up the costs of getting it into proper shape, being a little pessimistic. Don't be too pessimistic: you are signing up for an adventure, not a cruise. If you are not a risk-taker, this is not your car. But you have your '86 - you know this. I like the combination.

The idea, of course, is to make sure a low price does not improperly influence your decision - a Porsche Supercar for only $4000! On the other hand, it is important that you fall in love with the car; your emotions are critical to success.

M. Requin

I would take a close look at that "rust" on the fender, which it can't be as has been pointed out, to determine if it is body filler. If so, that car has been pranged and that needs very close inspection.

Lopez

These cars rarely rust even with neglect and never in the front half where the body is aluminum. Something is definitely not right there. The whole front bumper looks wrong and does not look original to me (even though the picture isn't great) - However I don't see the rubber separator between the fenders / hood and the bumper cover - also the alignment of the hood, fenders and bumper looks wrong. It should be flat and the panel gaps should be perfect.
This looks to me like what we used to say was only $10,000 away from being a $5000 car. But nowadays (and if there's poorly repaired damage to the front clip) it's probably only $20,000 away from being a $15,000 car...

drooman

Lets remember that this is an early 80s automatic. Right now, matching condition for condition, perhaps the lowest value of the entire model range. Decide if this is the model range you want to be in.

Then run the VIN to see what this started life as. https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...n-78-79-a.html

Probably not an S, no proper rear spoiler and no evidence of it being there. Unlikely to have super early 1977 front fenders with no holes, so some light holes filled up? Never saw fenders with no light holes WITH side moldings. Can't see the rear quarters for light configuration. The fenders, front spoiler, rear wing, radio, and headlight installation are hacks, and that's just what I see in a few pictures. Make sure the car was always red...engine bay picture carefully excludes any painted surfaces. Assume interior is trash unless pictures say otherwise. Cracks in the pod are visible in the gauge pic. console is leather, that means dash is leather, and when you see what that looks like now you will be aghast.

Nate your observations are right on as usual but I wouldn't go to 5K on this one. This just screams parts car to me (~1k)

dr bob

Read the whole "new visitors" thread at the top.

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The one headlight in your picture is rotated 120º from normal position. Guessing as others here have that this car has been in a body shop for crash repairs.

Hinch, share your location, and maybe reach out here to folks nearby who can go with you and offer an impartial opinion of the car in question. Many of the forum members have been in your shoes before. Take advantage of the accumulated knowledge. That may also net you a ride and perhaps a drive in a functioning car, so you have an idea what the goal line might look like. Visit, ride in and drive as many cars as you can along the way if you can. Pay for lunch.

Value: Not enough information. It's been sitting long enough to have a leaf collection at the cowl. The missing air cleaner cover says that someone has been pouring fuel or starting fluid into the intake. It's been sitting outside, so likely it's been providing sanctuary for various rodentia. There's telltale evidence that this will be a serious restoration project.

-- Shop casually for a whole interior now, in a condition you can live with. The sun has undoubtedly killed the stuff that's there as it has the dash in the picture.

-- Inspect carefully the front of the car for evidence of structural damage. Again, the telltales suggest that it's been slapped together rather than having everything refitted correctly. What looks like lifting paint at the headlight bucket may just be dirt in the picture. It won't be rust, as the fenders and hood (and door skins) are aluminum. The rest of the car is steel, and will rust if provoked. Look around the rear quarter window seals for evidence.

-- Red is a favorite repaint color to put on cars that are less than perfect but still need to sell. There's a paint code sticker in the doorjamb originally, with the federal ID numbers and such. If that's not there, share the VIN in the decoder thread and find out how the car started life.

-- If the car doesn't drive well, it can be a $1k parts car, or a -$20k project. Current owner may not be willing to give you the car and a check for $20k, but that's what it would take. Add in your avoided $5k purchase cost and the $5k you'd normally budget in first-year rubber bits, plus all your labor. Mix well... And have a $5-10k car when you are done, for only $30k and your labor.

Good luck in your search!