When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Lots of info scattered around regarding a seized front plug. Perhaps the best guidance I can share is to avoid at all costs breaking a hex driver in the head of the aluminum plug. Use an impact-rated driver but avoid using the impact to the point where there's risk to the driver. A broken hardened driver tip in the plug adds a lot of work to the project, using diamond bits in the Dremel or otherwise getting the broken stub out. BTDT, no fun.
The plug is aluminum and will be one with the steel sleeve it threads in to, thanks to rain water, car wash water, any road salt, and some galvanic action between the metals. Unless previously removed and protected with anti-seize, it will almost undoubtedly need to be drilled out.
Start with a pilot hole in the hex recess, and plant to work your way up to a 5/8"/15mm drill bit. Use some good tape (gorilla or gaffers) to protect the painted plastic bumper immediately around the work. Once drilled, you will need to carefully pick the remaining aluminum metal out of the threads in the steel sleeve. Those bits are still stuck in the steel, so be sure that you get plenty of penetrating fluid in there and allow soak time. If you use the acetone-and-ATF blend, use extra protection for the paint, else risk damage from the acetone in that mixture . Probably need to do the same for any penetrant (Kroil, PB Blaster, etc).
The tap is used to do a final cleaning of the threads in the sleeve after you've removed the bulk of the aluminum manually. The initial "threads" on the tap are tapered, and will wedge and compress any remaining metal that's in the first few in the sleeve. Once you get it started straight, turn it in a quarter of a turn at a time, then retract it at least half a turn to clear any chips or debris that's been scraped out by the tap.
Coat the threads in the sleeve with grease or Vaseline (my favorite) when you put the rubber GTS plug in there. the rubber only contacts the inner edges of the threads in the sleeve, so a little corrosion protection is a good idea.
Not handy to the car. Wander out to yours, and look at the top passenger's side grill opening in the bumper. There's a mushroom-head aluminum Allen capscrew there, preventing you from using the tow eye. Mine was painted body color (black). Coincidence? In your case it would have been ever so slightly easier to access that plug for removal while the bumper shell was off during your paint upgrade.
GTS cars have a corrosion-proof rubber pacifier, plug with an eye on the outer end. Get a couple with your next parts order, and you'll be golden.
Edit: Bertrand's picture is worth 10x my words of description.
Beat me to it! A pic is here also - https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-tow-hook.html
On pre-S4 its under the plastic plug in the bumper cover on the same side.
AND they are different size threads!
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
Yes I just verified that mine has the original plug stuck in the front threads; the rear slot appears to be open and good, though I have not tried to thread a towhook into it.
I will have to maybe get this car shipped to its eventual buyer in the near future, and I may not be able to get the front towhook slot ready. Will the rear one do the job?
Yes I just verified that mine has the original plug stuck in the front threads; the rear slot appears to be open and good, though I have not tried to thread a towhook into it.
I will have to maybe get this car shipped to its eventual buyer in the near future, and I may not be able to get the front towhook slot ready. Will the rear one do the job?
Assuming the car is drivable, you won't need either. But a usable front tow hook fitting is worth a lot to the right buyer, as a barometer of meticulous maintenance.
Assuming the car is drivable, you won't need either. But a usable front tow hook fitting is worth a lot to the right buyer, as a barometer of meticulous maintenance.
Well I am currently trying the penetrating crud - hit with hammer - rinse - repeat, but I don't want to have it drilled out and repaired. You're suggesting this could be even more important than a jump post cover??
My car might end up sold to someone who-knows-where because it's going up on Bring a Trailer.
Yes I just verified that mine has the original plug stuck in the front threads; the rear slot appears to be open and good, though I have not tried to thread a towhook into it.
I will have to maybe get this car shipped to its eventual buyer in the near future, and I may not be able to get the front towhook slot ready. Will the rear one do the job?
If you can't get it out just be sure to tell the buyer of any issues.
I do think buyers will want the front tow access point as the more widely used than the rear tow access point, (for pick up from front on side of road/freeway).
So I was curious and took a look at mine just now. The 928 S tow hook is behind the passenger side lower bumper plug and not accessible through the grill. Luckily for me there was no tow hook receiver plug installed. I guess the PO either lost it or had the forethought to remove it. Unless the they weren't installed on an '84?
In the process of removing the bumper plug it cracked...
...but fortunately I had an extra 928sRus logo bumper plug that I made laying around.
03-07-2017, 02:44 PM
