Front tow hook
03-05-2017, 06:54 AM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Front tow hook
I doubt I'll be able to clean up the threads in the front tow hook receptacle.
If the car ever needed to be towed from front (or loaded onto flat bed), would it be ok to attach to the eyes at front of the lower control arms?
If the car ever needed to be towed from front (or loaded onto flat bed), would it be ok to attach to the eyes at front of the lower control arms?
03-05-2017, 08:04 AM
#2
Rennlist Member
They were designed for that when towing the car onto a flatbed. That plug is a real b*stard unfortunately.
03-05-2017, 10:50 AM
#3
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thanks Blake that's good to know. I tried drilling out the aluminium plug but may have messed up threads - it's a tricky angle! But I have a rubber bung in there to protect the frame rail.
03-05-2017, 11:39 AM
#4
Nordschleife Master
I didn't think you should connect to the control arms, but maybe I'm incorrect.
Regarding the tow hook, have you looked into steel inserts if the threads are messed up as you describe, might be able to recover the use of the tow hook.
https://www.ezlok.com/inserts-for-me...readed-inserts
No affiliation, there are other inserts available. Just a thought.
Regarding the tow hook, have you looked into steel inserts if the threads are messed up as you describe, might be able to recover the use of the tow hook.
https://www.ezlok.com/inserts-for-me...readed-inserts
No affiliation, there are other inserts available. Just a thought.
03-05-2017, 02:12 PM
#5
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
If you are talking about the tie-down eyes that have the little skid-plate/launch ramp integrated, take a closer look at the eyes and their location. Looks like they would be OK for a tie-down once on a trailer or other vehicle. But attaching to and pulling forward from those will have things right up in the plastic spoiler, unfortunately.
Pulling from the front without the tow eye is an invitation to damage of some sort. Temptation is to wrap around the lower control arm with a soft strap. But that usually includes the tie rod and end in the mix. At the front of the LCA, the plastic deflector for brake cooling would be sacrificed.
If the threads in the original socket really are damaged to the point where restoration isn't possible, you might consider a thread repair option as alex70 suggests. The part that's threaded for the eye looks like a sleeve that's welded to the support, and there's just not a lot of metal to drill out, re-thread larger, to then let you put in an insert.
The threaded sleeve on mine is partially open at the rear, which would probably lead me to drilling it straight through, then fitting a nut behind the sleeve to accept a plain lifting eye. There are some interesting race fittings for the duty that let the "eye" fold down on a pivot pin, but there isn't room in the opening in the bumper to use one. Ultimately, the replacement lifting eye would need to be long enough to get the "eye" out proud of the bumper, and strong enough to withstand the inevitable slight angular pull that will be applied, all without bending and getting into the bumper plastic.
I'd take a long hard look at the threads in your existing tow-eye receiver, to see if they can be straightened or otherwise recovered with a thread chaser. Virtually every other tow-hook or tow-eye option will require some fabrication and, except for another one in the original location, will leave you with something hanging low in the front when not in use.
Pulling from the front without the tow eye is an invitation to damage of some sort. Temptation is to wrap around the lower control arm with a soft strap. But that usually includes the tie rod and end in the mix. At the front of the LCA, the plastic deflector for brake cooling would be sacrificed.
If the threads in the original socket really are damaged to the point where restoration isn't possible, you might consider a thread repair option as alex70 suggests. The part that's threaded for the eye looks like a sleeve that's welded to the support, and there's just not a lot of metal to drill out, re-thread larger, to then let you put in an insert.
The threaded sleeve on mine is partially open at the rear, which would probably lead me to drilling it straight through, then fitting a nut behind the sleeve to accept a plain lifting eye. There are some interesting race fittings for the duty that let the "eye" fold down on a pivot pin, but there isn't room in the opening in the bumper to use one. Ultimately, the replacement lifting eye would need to be long enough to get the "eye" out proud of the bumper, and strong enough to withstand the inevitable slight angular pull that will be applied, all without bending and getting into the bumper plastic.
I'd take a long hard look at the threads in your existing tow-eye receiver, to see if they can be straightened or otherwise recovered with a thread chaser. Virtually every other tow-hook or tow-eye option will require some fabrication and, except for another one in the original location, will leave you with something hanging low in the front when not in use.
03-05-2017, 02:55 PM
#6
Vegas, Baby!
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
There's a tap for cleaning up and chasing the threads for the tow hook. I'm not sure where it's at, I think it's always been a loaner tool from the 928 owners club. Worth looking into.
03-05-2017, 10:36 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
^^ What Polecat said. Here's the thread ..... https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ap-useful.html
If you look at the last posts in that thread you'll see it was in Europe, so with any luck it might still be there. Check with those posting later in the thread to find out.
If you look at the last posts in that thread you'll see it was in Europe, so with any luck it might still be there. Check with those posting later in the thread to find out.
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03-07-2017, 02:49 AM
#9
Rennlist Member
You need a drill around 5/8" to get the alloy out, and then access to my tap, that should be somewhere in Europe - put out a call for its location.
The thread is actually 0.8" OD, NOT 20mm, known as 'knuckle', 8 tpi. Good luck finding one you want to pay for.
More than 20 users in USA used the tap before it crossed the pond.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
The thread is actually 0.8" OD, NOT 20mm, known as 'knuckle', 8 tpi. Good luck finding one you want to pay for.
More than 20 users in USA used the tap before it crossed the pond.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
03-07-2017, 05:51 AM
#10
You need a drill around 5/8" to get the alloy out, and then access to my tap, that should be somewhere in Europe - put out a call for its location.
The thread is actually 0.8" OD, NOT 20mm, known as 'knuckle', 8 tpi. Good luck finding one you want to pay for.
More than 20 users in USA used the tap before it crossed the pond.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
The thread is actually 0.8" OD, NOT 20mm, known as 'knuckle', 8 tpi. Good luck finding one you want to pay for.
More than 20 users in USA used the tap before it crossed the pond.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
Your tap is currently into the hands of a Porsche Club 928 de France member. It was well used here and I use this opportunity to thank you
Just let me know if we need to send it to the UK.
Samuel
03-07-2017, 07:17 AM
#12
Rennlist Member
03-07-2017, 08:08 AM
#13
Rennlist Member
Samuel,
Glad to know its whereabouts, thanks. Would be useful to keep Alan (USA) up to date , as he was/is the original coordinator of the tap. Hopefully StartfordShark will be in touch if he decides to try to clean up his threads.
Safulop - make sure you specify S4 type hook - large thread. There is a thread inside the grille area on the left (looking AT the car) - may be plugged with an alloy part (bad news - corrosion), or a rubber part (good news). There is a rear thread above the rear licence plate, angled upwards. Note that the tow hooks are made of a material poorly suited to the job - straight pulls are OK, but any real side load will break them - ask me how I know.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
Glad to know its whereabouts, thanks. Would be useful to keep Alan (USA) up to date , as he was/is the original coordinator of the tap. Hopefully StartfordShark will be in touch if he decides to try to clean up his threads.
Safulop - make sure you specify S4 type hook - large thread. There is a thread inside the grille area on the left (looking AT the car) - may be plugged with an alloy part (bad news - corrosion), or a rubber part (good news). There is a rear thread above the rear licence plate, angled upwards. Note that the tow hooks are made of a material poorly suited to the job - straight pulls are OK, but any real side load will break them - ask me how I know.
jp 83 Euro S AT 57k
