When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My 89 has factory alarm and a long key - the ignition barrel is only short-key tumbler set (5 tumblers) so a door/trunk lock is needed to get the last 2 tumbler pairs and make to correct code to be able to open the doors whilst disabling the alarm too.
I've never had the glovebox lock apart to see whether it has all 7 pairs.. but would assume its like the gas cap, and only uses 5.
I can't say with absolute certainty, but my thinking is that the glovebox lock probably needs the long key, else why have a valet key at all?
No, it's not an Aussie thing. I ordered a key replacement from a US Porsche dealership and it did not work. Finally, they tried to tell me it was because my locks were worn, and they needed to service my car. I told them that make no sense because the new key had less metal on it than the old key... Duh... It was a year's odessy but I finally gave them keys made by Keys for Classics that worked and they "fixed the problem." This was my first and last experience buying Porsche parts from a dealer.
In saying it is "an Aussie thing" I was talking about the $540 price tag, since in the USA it is more like $80.
+1 on hit or miss by the VIN. My car came with a spare key ordered from the VIN by the PO. It sort of works in the ignition if you get it just right, but not the doors.
I had to do some ignition switch trouble shooting a couple years ago and I seem to recall if you remove the plastic panel below the ignition switch you can reach from the underside of the pod and unplug the switch from the lock cylinder. You can then turn the ignition switch manually with a Philips head screwdriver.
The steering wheel will still be locked, but at least you could start the engine, rev it up, and see how it sounds.
I think that at one point Mark (or, his son, I think) had the ability to make a key from a lock or to rekey a lock. If they can still do that you could pull the ignition lock and a door lock and send it to them.
If a person decides to DIY a rekey, say to an existing key--- take the time to first build a jig that holds the hatch and door locksets so that you can drill out the retaining pin without wandering into the soft aluminum body.
Anyone consider calling a locksmith, or taking the glove box to a locksmith. I got lucky in that there is a somewhat local locksmith who had been around forever seen and done it all. Even had 928 keys long and short in stock. If you are a AAA member they even pay for it
Ok I now own and have this car in my possession. My local locksmith has said if I bring him the door lock he can make a key.
I've had a search but can't find how to remove the lock from the door.
Any
One done this and can help with instructions.
Tia.
Struan
Good golly miss Molly, sometimes I amaze myself.
Just went out and had a look and hey presto , less than a minute and the lock is free.
I shall let you know how we progress from here after I see my man tomorrow.
So here it is. Took a few days but a hand made key and it works.
I've had the engine turning over, but no start as fuel pump not working.
I will fit new one and have a go in weekend.
Glad you were able to work out the purchase. On US cars anyway, there's a switch at the inside end of the lock cylinder that receives the end of the longer key. It's needed to reset the alarm/immobilizer, short of disconnecting the battery with doors already unlocked.
The workshop manuals are invaluable for any work on the car at all. Find a set, download a set, or buy them in a CD set from 928srus.com (Roger) with lots of other supporting manuals and info.
The fuel pumps (2) are powered via the fuel pump relay in the central electrics panel under/forward of the passenger's feet in the car. Power to that relay comes through a dedicated wire directly from battery positive. There are several critical wires connected there, including the cooling fans power supplies. The general guidance is to disassemble and clean those, plus all the ground connections, before you start fighting electrical gremlins. The ground point for the fuel pump is in the forward part of the spare wheel well, with a plastic shield protecting it and some other connections from the transmission. Lots more ground points to service though.
There's a fuel pump inside the tank, with a strainer and a stub hose connection through the outlet port in the bottom of the tank. It's wired in parallel with the external pump, the "easy" one at the bottom rear of the tank hidden by the metal shield. The tank fitting is aluminum, fitted into a steel sleeve that's molded as part of the tank. Water and ethanol in fuel, or just condensation in the tank will settle and corrode the aluminum and steel pieces until they are one. Drain the tank completely before you start wrenching, and search here for some tips on getting that fitting and the internal pump from the tank.
Dr bob, thanks for your instructions. Fuel tank drained, fresh fuel in. Pump removed as I found it was not working at all. On my previous rescue of an S4 the pump,had seized from not being used for approx 13 years. This car has been sitting for 6-7 years so I was prepared for more of the same.
New pump,now installed. I'm about to go see if I can start her up.
I'll report back later in the evening. Cheers
01-10-2017, 08:30 PM
