is Brad Penn 20w50 really ok on a cold winter start up?
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
is Brad Penn 20w50 really ok on a cold winter start up?
I will be using my car occasionally throughout the winter here in Maryland. Some mornings we may see single digit or lower temperatures. I find myself worrying that the 20w50 may be too thick for these cold starts.
Do people often use a thinner oil in winter?
I don't mean to start a "what oil is best" argument, I just need my mind set at ease.
I have searched and not come up with much.
Cute dog pic included!
Do people often use a thinner oil in winter?
I don't mean to start a "what oil is best" argument, I just need my mind set at ease.
I have searched and not come up with much.
Cute dog pic included!
#2
Rennlist Member
I'm curious too. Maybe 10w40?
#3
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In a garage? Your garage probably doesn't even get below freezing. Throw a 200 watt shop light under the hood the day before to prewarm the motor if you're so worried.
#4
Rennlist Member
The owners manuals have charts of viscosity versus temperature, generally 20w50 is listed with a minimum temperature of 14F (-10C). The problem is that if it gets too cold it won't flow, and the bearings won't get enough lube. It would risky, even once.
I am partial to Brad Penn, but in your situation I would look for a good synthetic 10w50, or 10w40 for winter, and change before summer. Alternately Mobil-1 15w50 might be a suitable year-round oil.
Cute dog!
I am partial to Brad Penn, but in your situation I would look for a good synthetic 10w50, or 10w40 for winter, and change before summer. Alternately Mobil-1 15w50 might be a suitable year-round oil.
Cute dog!
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
The owners manuals have charts of viscosity versus temperature, generally 20w50 is listed with a minimum temperature of 14F (-10C). The problem is that if it gets too cold it won't flow, and the bearings won't get enough lube. It would risky, even once.
I am partial to Brad Penn, but in your situation I would look for a good synthetic 10w50, or 10w40 for winter, and change before summer. Alternately Mobil-1 15w50 might be a suitable year-round oil.
Cute dog!
I am partial to Brad Penn, but in your situation I would look for a good synthetic 10w50, or 10w40 for winter, and change before summer. Alternately Mobil-1 15w50 might be a suitable year-round oil.
Cute dog!
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#8
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I am assuming the OP is referring single digit degrees F for purposes of clarity. That being the case 20W50 might be critical or even suicidal referring Jim's quote so something along the lines of 10w40 sounds more purposeful during winter months
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Fred
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Fred
#9
Rennlist Member
I do not drive or even start the 928s in our winter but do drive the Cayenne all year (4.8L V8).
No worries with 0W40 at -30c, just let the engine warm before take off
No worries with 0W40 at -30c, just let the engine warm before take off
#10
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Originally Posted by the flyin' scotsman
just let the engine warm before take off
#11
Correct, you should start the engine and immediately start driving without letting it warm up at idle. The engine comes up to temp much faster when under load and reduces the damaging effects of cold starts.
You should keep the revs low and use light load until the engine is fully up to temp. Once everything is warm, let 'er rip!
You should keep the revs low and use light load until the engine is fully up to temp. Once everything is warm, let 'er rip!
#12
Rennlist Member
Correct, you should start the engine and immediately start driving without letting it warm up at idle. The engine comes up to temp much faster when under load and reduces the damaging effects of cold starts.
You should keep the revs low and use light load until the engine is fully up to temp. Once everything is warm, let 'er rip!
You should keep the revs low and use light load until the engine is fully up to temp. Once everything is warm, let 'er rip!
Cold weather starting is a different matter. If you are anywhere near the minimum temperature for the oil, or at very cold temperatures with any oil (as Malcom mentioned), then the oil is not going to act like oil until it gets warmed up. In that situation I think you are much better off letting the engine warm up slowly at idle for 5 minutes.
The problem is that cold oil is thick and doesn't flow well, bearings aren't going to get much flow, cam lobes and cylinder walls won't get much splash. The pressure-relief will be open even at idle so more revs won't help. And the filter may be bypassed until the oil thins a bit. In this case I think warming it up slowly at minimum RPM is the better answer.
#13
Rennlist Member
thx Jim and folks its not just the engine!!!........the gearbox and diffs do not shift at extreme low temps with make the car virtually undrivable. Metal parts shatter with the slightest fatigue, fuel filler flaps wont open, exposed disc brakes freeze solid.
Want proof.........come see me in January where overnight to daytime temps barely vary at -25c or colder......bring your long johns
btw.........the Cayenne has never failed to start, sitting outside the garage all night with NO block heater.
Want proof.........come see me in January where overnight to daytime temps barely vary at -25c or colder......bring your long johns
btw.........the Cayenne has never failed to start, sitting outside the garage all night with NO block heater.
#14
Administrator - "Tyson"
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Jim and Malcolm,
I do not disagree with anything you've said about cars, cold weather, and motor oil. I find it amazing that with everything we know about motor oil and fluids in general that any car lasts through winter "up here".
My 2003 Denali spent all winter outside last year, rarely driven. At one point sat for about 30 days without a battery maintainer, car cover anything. When I need to drive it, started right up without hesitation or any issues.
It's amazing how that thin layer of oil sitting on the bearings protects on cold start up.
Talking to mechanics in cold climates, oil related issues are typically from sludge buildup due to oil never reaching operating temp to boil off the moisture.
Back on topic - per the records that came with my 80, it has been running on 5w-40 as far back as I can find. No engine issues, only driven in spring / summer / fall. I replaced one cam tower gasket last winter, lifters and cams had no visual wear.
I do not disagree with anything you've said about cars, cold weather, and motor oil. I find it amazing that with everything we know about motor oil and fluids in general that any car lasts through winter "up here".
My 2003 Denali spent all winter outside last year, rarely driven. At one point sat for about 30 days without a battery maintainer, car cover anything. When I need to drive it, started right up without hesitation or any issues.
It's amazing how that thin layer of oil sitting on the bearings protects on cold start up.
Talking to mechanics in cold climates, oil related issues are typically from sludge buildup due to oil never reaching operating temp to boil off the moisture.
Back on topic - per the records that came with my 80, it has been running on 5w-40 as far back as I can find. No engine issues, only driven in spring / summer / fall. I replaced one cam tower gasket last winter, lifters and cams had no visual wear.