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is Brad Penn 20w50 really ok on a cold winter start up?

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Old 11-17-2016 | 08:24 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by curtisr
This is why I add Lucas Oil Stabilizer...
Great for building +$600,000,000 football stadiums.
Old 11-17-2016 | 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by the flyin' scotsman
thx Jim and folks its not just the engine!!!........the gearbox and diffs do not shift at extreme low temps with make the car virtually undrivable. Metal parts shatter with the slightest fatigue, fuel filler flaps wont open, exposed disc brakes freeze solid.

Want proof.........come see me in January where overnight to daytime temps barely vary at -25c or colder......bring your long johns
Malcolm, please tell me or at least remind me why people would choose to live in those types of climes???

And you can't drive your 928 all year long??? Blasphemy!!!
Old 11-17-2016 | 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by soontobered84
Malcolm, please tell me or at least remind me why people would choose to live in those types of climes???
You ever go snowmobiling?

I'd rather live 12 months in the cold climate than have my home team be the Dallas Cowboys.

Originally Posted by soontobered84
And you can't drive your 928 all year long??? Blasphemy!!!
When else are we supposed to fix them?
Old 11-17-2016 | 12:58 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Hacker-Pschorr
You ever go snowmobiling?

Yes, and I can't remember my whole body being that sore. It might have something to do with my Brother in law running over me with the snowmobile he was driving. (what did I ever do to him?)

I'd rather live 12 months in the cold climate than have my home team be the Dallas Cowboys.

Come on, Hacker. Everybody knows that you are a closet Cowboys fan. Besides, word is the Pack is getting a new coach next year. Maybe your all-world QB will be better then?

When else are we supposed to fix them?

That's why you should always have more than one 928. Drive one until it breaks, then drive the other while you are fixing the first one.
LMAO

Note to OP: Sorry for the hijack of your thread

Last edited by soontobered84; 11-17-2016 at 01:07 PM. Reason: add
Old 11-17-2016 | 08:41 PM
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hi John.......when its cold we can turn up the heat and our significant others snuggle.........Ive been in Tx in the summer, +40c is way worse than -20c IMHO.......we go hard water fishing

I drive my Cayenne in the winter...........the model has kept the company very profitable for many years now + it tows my boat and yes I maintain my 928s which maintains good business for a particular Tx based biz.
Old 11-17-2016 | 09:53 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by crushingday
I will be using my car occasionally throughout the winter here in Maryland. Some mornings we may see single digit or lower temperatures. I find myself worrying that the 20w50 may be too thick for these cold starts.
Do people often use a thinner oil in winter?

I don't mean to start a "what oil is best" argument, I just need my mind set at ease.

I have searched and not come up with much.

Cute dog pic included!

Brad Penn makes a 10w40....
Old 12-05-2016 | 06:26 PM
  #22  
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we have a HIGH of -17C today......Cayenne started perfectly on 0W40 then drove flawlessy.

It took me 10 mins to brush off the snow so it idled during that time.......thank goodness for heated seats
Old 12-05-2016 | 07:43 PM
  #23  
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Good video about oil weights...

Old 12-05-2016 | 08:56 PM
  #24  
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Couple comments here. In the US(don't know about great white north) there is no such thing as retail synthetic motor oil. Even if it SAYS 'full synthetic' it is not, it's hydrocracked dino oil. Next, the wider the range on oil vis, the poorer it's lubricating qualities due to the additive package for the base stock displacing the lubricating effect of the base. While it's true that you can start up and drive off in cold temps, there's nothing wrong with letting a car warm up if it has a modern EFI which controls fuel and ignition based on temps, MAP, etc, so there's limited carbon build up, and minimal over-rich mixture.

If you live in an extreme climate, and own a 30 YO car, and drive year-round best to change oil with the seasons.

Oh, and although I was born a cheese-head, and supported Lombardi all the way, now is time for Dallas. Cowboys all the way babeeee!
Old 12-06-2016 | 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by docmirror
Couple comments here. In the US(don't know about great white north) there is no such thing as retail synthetic motor oil. Even if it SAYS 'full synthetic' it is not, it's hydrocracked dino oil. Next, the wider the range on oil vis, the poorer it's lubricating qualities due to the additive package for the base stock displacing the lubricating effect of the base. While it's true that you can start up and drive off in cold temps, there's nothing wrong with letting a car warm up if it has a modern EFI which controls fuel and ignition based on temps, MAP, etc, so there's limited carbon build up, and minimal over-rich mixture.

If you live in an extreme climate, and own a 30 YO car, and drive year-round best to change oil with the seasons.

Oh, and although I was born a cheese-head, and supported Lombardi all the way, now is time for Dallas. Cowboys all the way babeeee!
Doc,what do you mean hydrocracked dino??
Old 12-06-2016 | 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by RFJ
Doc,what do you mean hydrocracked dino??
All US 'full synthetic' oils are from petroleum base stocks which have been subjected to a range of various chemical processes to separate the isomers(structural) into various grades. There are heavy constituents, and lighter constituents that diffuse, or boil out at different temps. There's also a GTL method for gas-to-liquid phase combination to mix base stock. However, the base stock of ALL US synthetic oils are group three(III) hydrocarbons which came out of the ground in the ME, or somewhere, and did not come from a polymer chain link mfg process in a controlled lab(synthesis).

Group four(IV) are the actual synthesized lubricants which are lab controlled, but there are no commercially avail group IV oils avail in the US. Unless someone wants to have P66 or ExMobil make some up again. Amsoil and Mobil 1 were the last holdouts to a true group IV base but as I recall, for competitive cost reasons both switched to group III base stock in about 2009 or so. Nothing wrong with group III oils which meet the engine mfg specs, just that it's not a PAO or POE synthesized group of isomers from the hand of man.



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