ROG100

We were discussing solid metal mounts not rubber.

ROG100

We carry mounts for the early cars for $125 each.
We also stock the engine shocks as well.

Carl Fausett

You can replace your engine cross-brace with a 1983-and-up model and then have your choice of many motor mounts, solid aluminum and solid rubber and hydraulic rubber (OEM)

928 International will sell you a good used cross-brace, or we can supply you with our 3-piece cross-brace: https://928motorsports.com/parts/crossmember.php

GlenL

I gotta jump in here regarding "upgrading."

If there's nothing wrong with your old-style ('82 and earlier) mounts then leave them alone. Looking at the system, Porsche executed a cost reduction to go with the hydraulic mounts. They age and rupture and, with the hydraulic fluid gone, there's vibration in the cabin. More cars have that crossmember so there's a variety of alternates on the market for non-Porsche hydraulic mounts and solid rubber, and metal, and customizeable parts.

The old-style mounts are a completely different design. They rarely fail. You'll probably only know if you've got the engine out. The dampers may need to be replaced, but few people do that. The genuine Porsche bits are pricey but people have used alternate parts (SG403024) with success. I'm looking forward to trying those in my next build. Or I might just leave them off.

Mrspencer

we were discussing solid mounts and if you refer to the pics they don't look like aluminum to me so the post stated motor mounts. So I have solid rubber mount they are awesome, no vibrations what so ever. Some of you guys go way over the top with these rants , if you haven't used any type of the mounts rubber or otherwise why comment that's not helpful. Thanks to all who are helpful.

SeanR

Reading is fundamental.

hacker-pschorr

This thread is about solid metal mounts. See post #3.

Yes in post #14 Carl posted a photo of his solid rubber mounts, and from there this thread went a few different directions.

However, the comment you quoted from Roger in post #43, he was referring to the solid metal mounts. The mentioning of transferring vibrations is the key giveaway since that is the primary concern with solid metal motor mounts.

Mikebte

After reading about all the back and forth. I think i'll just make my own and skip out on aluminum mounts. Why not just make your own Poly bushings and don't use aluminum or rubber?

The Forgotten On

Because the Poly only lasts 5 years if you are lucky.

Rocinante

Mike, thanks for the video!

Carl Fausett

This is the only post I see from a customer who has installed our solid aluminum mounts. That's a shame, given how many sets of them are out there.

Still, if you are considering our solid metal mounts please read my post #8 , #17, and #29 on this thread.

928_Trackie

I'm not one to chime in on threads, because people enjoy castrating others for doing something different.. Yes I lurk a lot. In this case, I'm in full support of Carls claim that the mounts make no vibrational difference what so ever.

I am running solid aluminum mounts. However, in my case these mounts were installed after other modifications that took away from the smoothness of a factory original car. I am fully caged, with 900 lbs springs in the front and 600 lbs springs in the rear with paper thin Kirky seats bolted to the floor. I also have straight exhaust with an x-pipe which was the worst modification for vibration. After solid mounts were installed my @ss vibration meter did not detect a difference what so ever.

Maybe others complaints of vibration are coming from mechanical issues with engine parts like failing dampers, damaged pulleys or a poorly running engine.

critics continue..

Carl Fausett

Thank you for sharing your experience.

Carl Fausett

Some have asked, when the hydraulic mounts fail and a vibration is felt in the cabin as a result; why would solid mounts be any different?

I tried to explain this in post #29 of this thread. Let me try again.

The reason the owner of a 928 with a failed hydraulic mount may notice a vibration is because the engine is now loose, and can pound up and down. The vibration the owner is feeling is a low-frequency impact tremor as the engine rattles because it is no longer held securely in position. If solid aluminum mounts are used, the motor is held secure and cannot pound up and down. There is no more impact tremor.

Although solid mounts will eliminate low-frequency vibrations, they are more likely to transfer high-frequency vibrations. However, none of my customers complain of this. I feel this is because the rubber isolator in the steering shaft is nullifying those vibrations from being felt in the steering wheel, and the large stack of foam rubber they are sitting on is capturing any vibration that otherwise might be felt in their fanny. Another theory is they are performance-minded, and welcome a more sports-car feel rather than a touring-car feel, so it is an acceptable trade-off for them.

But, that's why we offer both solid rubber and solid metal. Solid aluminum mounts aren't everybody's cup of tea, and that's OK. We have both, whichever you prefer.