Remove inner CV joint flange?
09-01-2016, 06:48 AM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Remove inner CV joint flange?
I'm just turning attention back to drive shaft after removing it at start of brake refurb project when I saw outer boot torn. The outer joint is now regreased and boot clamped on. The inner joint is thoroughly cleaned of old grease.
Today I want to grease the inner joint, assemble on shaft and install on car. The inner joint has a flange on it for the boot. It would be a lot easier to remove this from the joint and seat the boot dry with no grease making it all slippery (I struggled somewhat at the outer end with attaching the boot). That raises a number of questions I'd love your wisdom on. Forgive silly questions but I'm being cautious as don't want more holdups on this project by making wrong move!
- should the flange come off (I think so, as that would allow full disassembly and inspection of the joint, and allow proper packing of grease on the flange side)?
- if so, how to remove it now joint is off the shaft. Maybe put it back on shaft temporarily so it has support to tap off the flange?
- how would you ensure bolt holes line up with those on joint? Would you leave off both boot clamps for now and rotate boot/flange on shaft till the bolts lined up?
- how would the flange reseal to the joint if it is removed? Do the bolts just draw it on as they are torqued up into diff?
Thanks very much. I'll wait for answers before doing anything rash.
Adrian
Today I want to grease the inner joint, assemble on shaft and install on car. The inner joint has a flange on it for the boot. It would be a lot easier to remove this from the joint and seat the boot dry with no grease making it all slippery (I struggled somewhat at the outer end with attaching the boot). That raises a number of questions I'd love your wisdom on. Forgive silly questions but I'm being cautious as don't want more holdups on this project by making wrong move!
- should the flange come off (I think so, as that would allow full disassembly and inspection of the joint, and allow proper packing of grease on the flange side)?
- if so, how to remove it now joint is off the shaft. Maybe put it back on shaft temporarily so it has support to tap off the flange?
- how would you ensure bolt holes line up with those on joint? Would you leave off both boot clamps for now and rotate boot/flange on shaft till the bolts lined up?
- how would the flange reseal to the joint if it is removed? Do the bolts just draw it on as they are torqued up into diff?
Thanks very much. I'll wait for answers before doing anything rash.
Adrian
09-01-2016, 07:55 AM
#2
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I knocked mine off with a large screwdriver, working 'round and 'round. A new one came in the kit.
It just takes some care to get the bolt holes line up - there's no turning it once fully on. I probably put some bolts through it to get it started right. Certainly, do this before you put the boot on it.
If it has not already disgorged its *****, be prepared, both to catch them and how to put them back - if I remember, the "spider" goes back only one way.
It forms the seal, but as you've already found, the grease is tenacious and will not leak out. Yes, it will be drawn up tight when you bolt it onto the car.
It just takes some care to get the bolt holes line up - there's no turning it once fully on. I probably put some bolts through it to get it started right. Certainly, do this before you put the boot on it.
If it has not already disgorged its *****, be prepared, both to catch them and how to put them back - if I remember, the "spider" goes back only one way.
It forms the seal, but as you've already found, the grease is tenacious and will not leak out. Yes, it will be drawn up tight when you bolt it onto the car.
09-01-2016, 07:57 AM
#3
Rennlist Member
Adrian,
The piece [flange] that the boot goes over is nothing more than a cover of no structural significance and it is a tightish fit over main joint hub- tapping along the side of it with a screw driver will quickly remove it if that is what you are asking. Obviously when you reassemble it you have to align the bolt holes, same with the cover on the other end [which should have been included in the boot kit]. The piece is tight enough to prevent grease getting out of it and same on the other face. The deal is sealed when you pinch the mounting bolts onto the diff flange.
What you must do is ensure the joint goes back the way it came off as the inner and outer pieces are not bi-directional [or so the manual says] but you can transfer them side to side as complete assemblies to even out any wear not that it is likely to happen. I tried ot keep my joint intact and not let the ball bearings fall out [can easily happen at some point of deflection] but even if this does happen it is no big deal to re-insert them.
When putting the end caps back on I used the mounting bolts to test the alignment - the visual inspection said everything was OK and indeed it was. There is no gasket or sealant used when fitting the end caps - it is a tight enough fit, sandwich sealed by the bolts and the grease is not going to leak- just make sure the cover and the respective mating surfaces are clean.
Rgds
Fred
The piece [flange] that the boot goes over is nothing more than a cover of no structural significance and it is a tightish fit over main joint hub- tapping along the side of it with a screw driver will quickly remove it if that is what you are asking. Obviously when you reassemble it you have to align the bolt holes, same with the cover on the other end [which should have been included in the boot kit]. The piece is tight enough to prevent grease getting out of it and same on the other face. The deal is sealed when you pinch the mounting bolts onto the diff flange.
What you must do is ensure the joint goes back the way it came off as the inner and outer pieces are not bi-directional [or so the manual says] but you can transfer them side to side as complete assemblies to even out any wear not that it is likely to happen. I tried ot keep my joint intact and not let the ball bearings fall out [can easily happen at some point of deflection] but even if this does happen it is no big deal to re-insert them.
When putting the end caps back on I used the mounting bolts to test the alignment - the visual inspection said everything was OK and indeed it was. There is no gasket or sealant used when fitting the end caps - it is a tight enough fit, sandwich sealed by the bolts and the grease is not going to leak- just make sure the cover and the respective mating surfaces are clean.
Rgds
Fred
09-01-2016, 08:32 AM
#4
Drifting
Thread Starter
I knocked mine off with a large screwdriver, working 'round and 'round. A new one came in the kit.
It just takes some care to get the bolt holes line up - there's no turning it once fully on. I probably put some bolts through it to get it started right. Certainly, do this before you put the boot on it.
If it has not already disgorged its *****, be prepared, both to catch them and how to put them back - if I remember, the "spider" goes back only one way.
It forms the seal, but as you've already found, the grease is tenacious and will not leak out. Yes, it will be drawn up tight when you bolt it onto the car.
It just takes some care to get the bolt holes line up - there's no turning it once fully on. I probably put some bolts through it to get it started right. Certainly, do this before you put the boot on it.
If it has not already disgorged its *****, be prepared, both to catch them and how to put them back - if I remember, the "spider" goes back only one way.
It forms the seal, but as you've already found, the grease is tenacious and will not leak out. Yes, it will be drawn up tight when you bolt it onto the car.
09-01-2016, 08:34 AM
#5
Drifting
Thread Starter
Adrian,
The piece [flange] that the boot goes over is nothing more than a cover of no structural significance and it is a tightish fit over main joint hub- tapping along the side of it with a screw driver will quickly remove it if that is what you are asking. Obviously when you reassemble it you have to align the bolt holes, same with the cover on the other end [which should have been included in the boot kit]. The piece is tight enough to prevent grease getting out of it and same on the other face. The deal is sealed when you pinch the mounting bolts onto the diff flange.
What you must do is ensure the joint goes back the way it came off as the inner and outer pieces are not bi-directional [or so the manual says] but you can transfer them side to side as complete assemblies to even out any wear not that it is likely to happen. I tried ot keep my joint intact and not let the ball bearings fall out [can easily happen at some point of deflection] but even if this does happen it is no big deal to re-insert them.
When putting the end caps back on I used the mounting bolts to test the alignment - the visual inspection said everything was OK and indeed it was. There is no gasket or sealant used when fitting the end caps - it is a tight enough fit, sandwich sealed by the bolts and the grease is not going to leak- just make sure the cover and the respective mating surfaces are clean.
Rgds
Fred
The piece [flange] that the boot goes over is nothing more than a cover of no structural significance and it is a tightish fit over main joint hub- tapping along the side of it with a screw driver will quickly remove it if that is what you are asking. Obviously when you reassemble it you have to align the bolt holes, same with the cover on the other end [which should have been included in the boot kit]. The piece is tight enough to prevent grease getting out of it and same on the other face. The deal is sealed when you pinch the mounting bolts onto the diff flange.
What you must do is ensure the joint goes back the way it came off as the inner and outer pieces are not bi-directional [or so the manual says] but you can transfer them side to side as complete assemblies to even out any wear not that it is likely to happen. I tried ot keep my joint intact and not let the ball bearings fall out [can easily happen at some point of deflection] but even if this does happen it is no big deal to re-insert them.
When putting the end caps back on I used the mounting bolts to test the alignment - the visual inspection said everything was OK and indeed it was. There is no gasket or sealant used when fitting the end caps - it is a tight enough fit, sandwich sealed by the bolts and the grease is not going to leak- just make sure the cover and the respective mating surfaces are clean.
Rgds
Fred
How did you support the assembly to knock the cap off? If I have anything below it will stop the cap moving.
09-01-2016, 10:05 AM
#6
Rennlist Member
Thanks Fred. I'll take that cap off and then it will be easier getting the boot seated without having to fight globs of grease. Will align things with the bolts.
How did you support the assembly to knock the cap off? If I have anything below it will stop the cap moving.
How did you support the assembly to knock the cap off? If I have anything below it will stop the cap moving.
I suspect you are being a bit "overly concerned" about getting the boot on but if it helps you feel more comfortable fair enough. As I remember when I fitted mine I held the joint body in the workmate with the shaft upper most and the end cap mounted and pushed the boot down and onto the rim. Must have been easy as I always remember every detail of the things that erked me.
To remove that cover I had the shaft mounted and held that in my BD workmate with the joint upper most and then tapped the edge downwards with a screwdriver blade persuaded by a Manchester Screwdriver [that's a hammer for the boys on the other side of the pond]. Did not take much effort at all just take it in easy increments. Once it starts moving the "resistance" is over.
Regards
Fred
09-01-2016, 11:30 AM
#7
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thanks Fred. I am making a meal of this but didn't want to make an error with finishing post in sight! I'm sure you're right than putting the boot on will be simple, so I'll check that before I grease the joint and with the end cap still mounted. If it seems easy then I'll keep it on. The joint feels fine so no real need to take the end cap off unless it makes putting the boot on simpler.
Edited to add pic - it looks tricky Fred, the boot just sits on the flange, and compressing it doesn't help. I wonder if the GKN/Lobro boots are slightly narrower than wherever Porsche sources the official part?
Edited to add pic - it looks tricky Fred, the boot just sits on the flange, and compressing it doesn't help. I wonder if the GKN/Lobro boots are slightly narrower than wherever Porsche sources the official part?
Last edited by StratfordShark; 09-01-2016 at 11:58 AM.
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09-01-2016, 01:25 PM
#9
Rennlist Member
Adrian,
If you have the cover off the axle completely and the boot to hand, are you saying you simply cannot get the boot to engage over the cover no matter what you do?
Something does not sound quite right here. The difficult bit was getting the boot to slide down over the shaft to the stub axle end and that was not too difficult using the approach Dwayne suggested. For sure if you have the items to hand and cannot get them to engage then it is not going to be easier when in-situ.
Maybe Roger would be kind enough to measure the ID of the large end of one of his boot for you- they fitted perfectly when I did mine.
Rgds
Fred
If you have the cover off the axle completely and the boot to hand, are you saying you simply cannot get the boot to engage over the cover no matter what you do?
Something does not sound quite right here. The difficult bit was getting the boot to slide down over the shaft to the stub axle end and that was not too difficult using the approach Dwayne suggested. For sure if you have the items to hand and cannot get them to engage then it is not going to be easier when in-situ.
Maybe Roger would be kind enough to measure the ID of the large end of one of his boot for you- they fitted perfectly when I did mine.
Rgds
Fred
09-01-2016, 01:50 PM
#10
Drifting
Thread Starter
The Eagle has landed!
Combo of leaving boot in hot water for a time, and silicone lubricant. Snapped into place very nicely.
Thanks Curt & Fred for your help
Combo of leaving boot in hot water for a time, and silicone lubricant. Snapped into place very nicely.
Thanks Curt & Fred for your help
09-01-2016, 02:34 PM
#12
Drifting
Thread Starter
I would still be interested in that ID measurement if Roger was good enough to measure it. I have a spare GKN boot to compare and its ID is 64mm. I was tempted to buy a Porsche packaged boot on eBay this week just to measure it!
Last edited by StratfordShark; 09-01-2016 at 02:58 PM.