corellian vette

Sometimes the smallest things make the biggest difference.

If you have a manual and you don't have one of Porken's clutch stops, you are missing out.

I can't believe how much more enjoyable the car is to drive after this simple modification. It probably saves several inches of unnecessary pedal travel, allowed me to adjust the seat back for better legroom and ability to get in/out of the car, and now I know for certain when I hit the stop, I'm good. I set the space at about 1cm per the install thread and that was right on the money for me.

It's such a quick install (maybe 15 minutes tops, and most of that is collecting up the tools to do the job) and it just made such a huge improvement in the driving experience.

So there you go. Not a paid endorsement, just a happy customer.

Crumpler

Good to know.
Did you just get it?
I think I asked once and they were not available at the time?

corellian vette

Yeah I ordered last week and got it last night.

WyattsRide

Just ordered one. Can't wait to install it. Thanks for the recommendation.

SeanR

Huge fan of this product, glad they are back in stock.

bureau13

I'm unclear as to the problem this solves. I'm not aware I have a problem with the clutch, but I'm used to it now, so maybe I'm just missing it?

928gt

+1. What issue exactly does this address/solve? I like my clutch bite point to be as close as possible to the floor (i.e. clutch starting to grab as I start letting out the pedal from the fully depressed position), not the other way around... that way clutch slippage lies. What does this gizmo do?

corellian vette

It's not a problem, per se. It's a feel thing. The 928 has no clutch stop. It stops when the pedal hits the firewall basically.

The problem is that you are well past the disengagement point on the clutch when you hit the firewall - probably by several inches. This means when you are depressing the clutch all the way in, well past what is necessary, to insure you have positively disengaged the clutch.

Many cars have physical stops. You hit a rubber bumper (adjustable or not) and you know your clutch is disengaged. It's feels very satisfying.

This does not adjust where the clutch disengages. It's a hydraulic system. It disengages where it's factory determined to disengage. The PEDAL, however, has no impact on that. You are pushing your pedal past the point where the clutch has already opened.

By adding this part, a couple things happen.

#1 you add legroom. You can move your seat back because you are not accounting for all the slop in the system. Like I said, I'm guessing about an inch of legroom is added.

#2. You can adjust it to exactly the point you know the clutch is released. When you fiddle with it, you can make it so that it hits the stop right after the clutch releases. You now have a predictable point that you know for certain you can shift. If you like the clutch to come on "right off the floor" this is perfect for that. You can adjust the pedal stop for whatever clutch feel you prefer.

#3 You have a very positive "feel". When you hit that stop, the pedal stops, you shift, and you know exactly where you are. It's just feels so much better when you shift because it takes the vagueness out of how the pedal feels.

PorKen

In the WSM a clutch stop is shown but never implemented on the firewall. Pre-87 pedals do have the casting for it, however.

The helper spring adjustment and rod pre-load are good things to check. (The revised pre-load can be implemented on earlier/all models.)




A factory pedal spacer can be helpful, too - https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-spacer-s.html



'86.5(?)-up the hole is not drilled and tapped but it can be added.

Crumpler

Installed mine tonight.
Took about ten minutes.

I gotta say thanks Ken. Nice satisfying feel. And goes well with the short shifter set up.

I had beaten a big rut in the carpet up under the pedal from hitting the firewall, pretty funny.

WyattsRide

Installed mine on Tuesday. corellian vette sums it up great. I love it and glad I got it. But, I call BS on the 10 minute install. It took me 15 minutes just to figure out how to contort my body to get to the plate bolts!!

SeanR

LOL, I tell people it's either going to be a 20 minute job or a 2 hour job.

Ad0911

This is a 15 minute job? Removing those two bolts and trying to put them in again gave me so much stress that I swore never to do this again. Why didn't they put pieces of thread on the clutch mc and nuts inside the footwell? That would make it so much easier to install the mc! What did I do wrong?
If there is an easy way to do this I will order one immediately

Crumpler

There's a link on Ken's website to a walkthrough. But, essentially one circlip and two 13 mm bolts...

corellian vette

Here's the key to my 15 min job - take off the lower dash tray. Remove the 10mm nuts up top, the 8mm nuts below and the caged bolts. Remove that shelf.

Move the seat all the way back.

That gives you all the room you need. No contortions necessary.

Pre-set the stop to about 1cm first. It's a good starting point.

Take the 13mm bolts off the plate first, then carefully unclip the rod. You want to be careful not to push it back down or I can see you have a problem getting the bolts back on.

But I'm serious this took me probably 15 minutes tops. Helps that I already had the lower shelf off and the seat back in my case.