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Old 07-31-2016, 05:07 AM
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StratfordShark
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Default CV boot kits

While changing rear pads and rotors, I've found a huge tear in the outer RHS cv boot.

Looking at repair kits in PET, 2 apparently identical ones are listed:
92833292402
00004330108

What's the difference? They both include the tranny end cap and circlip, but each has only one boot and 2 clamps. Even if you could avoid cutting the inner boot, you would have to remove it so would need 4 new clamps altogether even if you didn't renew both boots.

Also could you avoid disturbing the inner joint by using one of those cone install kits and a stretchy universal boot? I realise the shaft has to be removed but just thinking of saving cleaning and repackaged inner joint and just repairing torn one.

Thanks
Old 07-31-2016, 06:41 AM
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FredR
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Adrian,

The kit formulation presumably assumes both joints are replaced at the same time. Thus you need two kits per axle unless you can find the individual pieces. I have no knowledge of other options.

I thought you replaced the boots recently around the time I did mine or am I mistaken?

Rgds

Fred
Old 07-31-2016, 07:28 AM
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Thanks Fred.

I replaced my steering boots last year, but I think the cv boots are original as I've never had to replace them and no service records showing replacement.

Enjoyed your epic replacement thread in the heat!

So 2 kits it is. But then wouldn't there be a circlip spare, and I'm not sure what the "lid" is described in PET. I will go and crawl under car again and try to figure it out. It's a pain as am in middle of calipers/brake refurb so could do without diversion!
Old 07-31-2016, 07:36 AM
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hi,
I believe the number 928.332.924.02 is superseded by a more generic 000.043.301.08 kit. You can't order the 928.332.924.02 anymore.
It does make sense replacing both boots as the amount of extra work is limited and it would not be the first time that the other one tears a little later as well.

ps: it is not 100% required to completely remove the axle, you can work both from the inner side. But removing the axle is more convenient. And.... it is no fun doing it under the car on a warm day.. with black molycote greasy stuff on your hands.

Theo Jenniskens, 1992 GTS
Old 07-31-2016, 08:31 AM
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FredR
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Originally Posted by StratfordShark
Thanks Fred.

I replaced my steering boots last year, but I think the cv boots are original as I've never had to replace them and no service records showing replacement.

Enjoyed your epic replacement thread in the heat!

So 2 kits it is. But then wouldn't there be a circlip spare, and I'm not sure what the "lid" is described in PET. I will go and crawl under car again and try to figure it out. It's a pain as am in middle of calipers/brake refurb so could do without diversion!
Adrian,

I got my kits from Roger and they had everthing needed but maybe that is not practical for you being UK based. If you do pull the half shafts make sure you have a 3/4 inch socket set and a bloddy great breaker bar then it is dead easy.

If you think the boots were epic my next planned [forced] activity may be the lower A arms which are squealling atrociously over speed bumps and the like [assuming that is the problem]. I plan to pull the holder off the front driver side and take a look at the condition before deciding whether to go further at this point.

It has been a little cooler the last few days with temps down to about 35C but still very humid as I am now about 300m from the beach! At least I can get some a/c effect into my new garage.

Rgds

fred
Old 07-31-2016, 12:27 PM
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Hi Fred

I'm big fan of Roger and have had pleasure of buying parts from him on a few occasions in past, but those boots are cheap enough to mean I can look for them here and make sure they're correct.

So are you talking about the lower control arms? I did change the ball joint on those, but rest of arm was fine. Those alu suspension parts can be prices...

Thanks for advice on axle nut. I do have 3/4 breaker and short extension as legacy of TB job, so will be nice to get more use out of it. But I literally just ordered a good quality 32mm socket to complete the set. I've checked and I can get to the trans bolts fine and broke torque on a couple as dry run with 8mm hex socket. Used technique of handbrake on/off, and moving bolts into good position by turning rear wheel.
Old 07-31-2016, 05:35 PM
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FredR
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Originally Posted by StratfordShark
Hi Fred

I'm big fan of Roger and have had pleasure of buying parts from him on a few occasions in past, but those boots are cheap enough to mean I can look for them here and make sure they're correct.

So are you talking about the lower control arms? I did change the ball joint on those, but rest of arm was fine. Those alu suspension parts can be prices...

Thanks for advice on axle nut. I do have 3/4 breaker and short extension as legacy of TB job, so will be nice to get more use out of it. But I literally just ordered a good quality 32mm socket to complete the set. I've checked and I can get to the trans bolts fine and broke torque on a couple as dry run with 8mm hex socket. Used technique of handbrake on/off, and moving bolts into good position by turning rear wheel.
Adrian,

Fully understand your dilemma- over here not too much choice- often Porsche prices can equal US prices plus shipping etc but lightweight items usually are cheaper to import.

When you do the stub axle nuts support the socket assembly under the extension bar with a screw jack or something- I think i posted a pic of mine in my thread.

The 8mm Allen bolts on the output shaft flange are generally easy and I used the handbrake and had the box in P. I found that you can usually do two at a time hitting them at 5.00/6.00 clock positions on the driver side. You can also hit them from above with a set of long 1/2 inch sq drive extensions but it is more of a pain doing them one at a time. I purchased a long reach 1/2 inch drive impact socket to help ensure no rounding.

Just take your time and think - then it is easy compared to some of the jobs you have already done to date.

Regards

Fred



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